modulator Hmm, I would go for the "clamp" at the rear, with superglue (super thin type) wicked into the cracks as well. They tell me superglue does not last forever. No glue does, I guess.
As above, I would also use superglue (super thin type). I'd drill 0.5mm holes in the crack, about 10mm deep, every 3-4mm following the crack, and then put superglue in the holes (with a hypodermic needle on the superglue bottle), being carefull not drill too deep and into the fretboard, of course. Superglue should spread the entire length of the crack. Theoretically! But since it's a project guitar, it's worth a try before getting into more serious work.
I've this technique to fix/stabilize the stud inserts that hold the screws for the floating tremolo on a friends Indonesian Squier. That was 3 years ago and the studs have not moved yet.
That flame neck looks really, really nice! For a beautiful satin finish (not gloss) and very nice FEEL when you play, I'd go with Danish Oil or Woodoc 10. If you don't mind a little bit "stickier" feel but fantastic look, then Tru Oil will work great. I'm not an expert in finishes but I I've used those specific 3 finishes a lot. You could use any of these finishes on the body as well, of course, and they will all make the grain much more visible and really pretty. You can put any stain before. They all work well, and even better, they're really easy to use (if I can do it, anyone can!). But sanding needs to be done properly!
I agree with the other comments about the frets, leveling and crowning should be fine. I also agree with V8, crowning frets is the absolute worse! Not a really difficult job but a real pain in the...
BTW, guidothepimp already offered and 12 inch radius block but if you need a 9.5 block, I've got one so you can borrow it.
