That crack in the heel looks bad to me, and I see another one opening up as well. One suggestion might be to cut a slot at the back of the heel, and epoxy in a stiff piece of wood. This could be "key"-shaped to act as a "clamp", drawing the ends of the neck together. You will have to be inventive here, to make up a system which will allow you to "clamp" that piece of wood into the slot, heel to head. I am hesitant to suggest a hole from one side to the other (between the front and rear mounting screws) with a dowel epoxied in, seeing as there is not much wood left around it. A thin dowel maybe?

One trick I never got to work as well as suggested is to "flow" epoxy epoxy into the cracks, using a hair dryer to heat up the epoxy to a watery state. This obviously depends on the type of epoxy used, and the heat will affect the curing time too.

Hmm, I would go for the "clamp" at the rear, with superglue (super thin type) wicked into the cracks as well. They tell me superglue does not last forever. No glue does, I guess.

I agree on the frets - could be salvaged.

Hey Guys. Thanks for the replies.

@morph & @modulator thanks for the tips and advice. I think a sunk in bolt will do the trick nicely and I assume it doesn't have to be a 'huge' big bolt either. Maybe a 6mm or max an 8mm? (Cant believe i am going to be drilling a hole through my guitar's neck. Ouch.

I also found 2 cracks on the body when I stripped the rest of the finish last night. Don't know how/when this could have happened. Possibly bought like that.

I now have to strip the wood sealant. I was thinking a sander, but if there are easier ways then please do tell!

Hectic busy at work at the moment so I will reply and update as I get time.

Thanks again for the advice gents!

wern101 unfortunately for the sealer.. sanding is the way. Thats tough stuff.

When you get to the frets... an important piece of kit is the radius block. You can make these if you have routers and jigs n things. I have a 12inch block .. so if your neck is 12inch radius.. i can help if you are this side of town.. i also have the crowning file which helps A LOT

For the neck crack.. if it opens slightly.. you can wick glue in there and clamp it.. i would attept glue before routing.. dowels etc.. but thats just me..

Make sure you drill a pilot hole that is the same size as the inner shaft of the screw. If you don't or it is too small the screw could cause another crack. I am wondering if the first crack was not caused by those holes used to fasten the neck to the body being too small in the first place. It does run right past the first hole.

morph I am wondering if the first crack was not caused by those holes used to fasten the neck to the body being too small in the first place.

This is quite possible Morph. Looking at the position it is actually quite probable.

Tuckstir so no need to stress about the truss rod..

That was going to be my next question!! How 'deep' does the Truss rod actually go in? That would suck drilling into that

guidothepimmp . sanding is the way. Thats tough stuff.

Ja. No kidding!

Well, on the weekend I got a little further. Managed to get the front and back completely sanded down and the grain is now nicely visible.

I had a slight wood burn on the back with the heat gun, but nothing the sander can't sort out. I actually kind of like it....

I still have to do the sides and contemplating if I am going to bother with the 'insides' - although I may want to use inside grain to test techniques out.

Slow going at the moment with lots happening at work. Had some awesome ideas as well, but not sharing them just yet

Meanwhile @Tuckstir mentioned that we will have a bit of a 'competition' once both our projects are completed. Purely based on 'who made it prettier' with a forum vote. No prizes, just bragging rights. ?

Thanks again for the posts and replies. Much appreciated. I'll update soon.

modulator Hmm, I would go for the "clamp" at the rear, with superglue (super thin type) wicked into the cracks as well. They tell me superglue does not last forever. No glue does, I guess.

As above, I would also use superglue (super thin type). I'd drill 0.5mm holes in the crack, about 10mm deep, every 3-4mm following the crack, and then put superglue in the holes (with a hypodermic needle on the superglue bottle), being carefull not drill too deep and into the fretboard, of course. Superglue should spread the entire length of the crack. Theoretically! But since it's a project guitar, it's worth a try before getting into more serious work.

I've this technique to fix/stabilize the stud inserts that hold the screws for the floating tremolo on a friends Indonesian Squier. That was 3 years ago and the studs have not moved yet.

That flame neck looks really, really nice! For a beautiful satin finish (not gloss) and very nice FEEL when you play, I'd go with Danish Oil or Woodoc 10. If you don't mind a little bit "stickier" feel but fantastic look, then Tru Oil will work great. I'm not an expert in finishes but I I've used those specific 3 finishes a lot. You could use any of these finishes on the body as well, of course, and they will all make the grain much more visible and really pretty. You can put any stain before. They all work well, and even better, they're really easy to use (if I can do it, anyone can!). But sanding needs to be done properly!

I agree with the other comments about the frets, leveling and crowning should be fine. I also agree with V8, crowning frets is the absolute worse! Not a really difficult job but a real pain in the...

BTW, guidothepimp already offered and 12 inch radius block but if you need a 9.5 block, I've got one so you can borrow it.

Righty Oh. I made some progress over the weekend. Finally. I decided to go with a two-colour option, just to spice things up a bit.

I got ‘cherry red’ and ‘light oak’ stains that I added as below. The idea being to go with the natural laminate lines and not ‘square’ or symmetrical or anything like that.

So I started with the red and was happy with the way things were progressing. I found a few places that the red simply did not want to penetrate – little scuff marks and, possibly, places where the original finish may not have come off properly. (I’ll deal with these later).

I then did the oak colour and found that my technique of using a cloth and sponge was working well, until my wife pointed out that most of the colour was going into the cloth. (face palm) She (brilliantly) then applied a layer with a small paint brush and the immediate colour pop was AMAZING. Needless to say, the photos don’t show that. I am hoping it will pop when the final oil/sealant is applied.

Before Brush

After Brush

So that’s where we are now, Hope to update soon. Tru-oil has been ordered and should be here within the week.

Lots of refinements to do, straighten lines and what not, but at least the body has some colour!

wern101 immediate colour pop was AMAZING. Needless to say, the photos don’t show that. I am hoping it will pop when the final oil/sealant is applied.

if you think it was amazing then. just wait till its sealed.. its going to be pantie dropping awesome.
always found it looks good wet, dull and lifeless when the stain has dried, and great when sealant has been applied

Tuckstir always found it looks good wet, dull and lifeless when the stain has dried, and great when sealant has been applied

Well that is good news indeed. I mean, you kinda know that is what is going to happen, but at the same time worry it won't. Looking forward.

wern101 Digging that! Fun to see you and @Tuckstir keep on truckin' - love it!

wern101

Cheery red on that neck would be awesome.. but it might clash with the body colours maybe do a test on some scrap wood first to compare..

If you are using a water based stain.. like Clou from Blackbeardsden.. an easy way to get the flame to pop with minimal sanding is to wipe it on with a cloth,, then immediately wipe it off, almost wiping all off with a damp/wet cloth..

just to highlight what i was saying earlier about applying water based stains..
this piece of scrap pallet wood.. after a bit of sanding, stain was applied and then washed off again.. leaving this. no sanding has taken place since staining.

as with everything prep work is the most essential part,, never skimp on prep work.. makes everything so much easier.