convert morley wah into volume pedal?
Thanks!
A diagram I can read ?
I reckon I'll take a scalpel to her.
I can picture what you mean with the double wheel string Macgyver.
Not sure where I get the hardware though...
Scared it'll look like a boy scout constructed it with Macano.
A picture would be good.
And any tips.
A diagram I can read ?
I reckon I'll take a scalpel to her.
I can picture what you mean with the double wheel string Macgyver.
Not sure where I get the hardware though...
Scared it'll look like a boy scout constructed it with Macano.
A picture would be good.
And any tips.
I guess it should be easy for me to leave in the bypass switch.
Is it a big deal to set it so that it attenuates as you pull back from middle.
And amplifies from middle forward?
And will it be an advantage / big deal to make it buffered.
Not sure what "buffered" even means..... what is the function / advantage?
It does have the active 9V parts in already after all.
I reckon that could potentially be a very funcky toy.
And any suggestions for utilizing the old volume knob?
Is it a big deal to set it so that it attenuates as you pull back from middle.
And amplifies from middle forward?
And will it be an advantage / big deal to make it buffered.
Not sure what "buffered" even means..... what is the function / advantage?
It does have the active 9V parts in already after all.
I reckon that could potentially be a very funcky toy.
And any suggestions for utilizing the old volume knob?
Well the wheel is a small one stuck onto a big one. The cable loops in from under the small one, goes through a small hole and into the big one and loops that one and out to the pot. I'll try and get pics of what I mean.
Buffering is just a simple circuit put in place instead of true bypass to keep the signal level constant and matching when the pedal is not true bypass. If this wasn't on place, the pedal would load the output signal which would affect tone.
If you have another buffered pedal in line your signal should be fine with the schematic I found for the passive pedal.
Basically you'd just have to rip out the guys of the pedal, mount a pot in there and have fun
Buffering is just a simple circuit put in place instead of true bypass to keep the signal level constant and matching when the pedal is not true bypass. If this wasn't on place, the pedal would load the output signal which would affect tone.
If you have another buffered pedal in line your signal should be fine with the schematic I found for the passive pedal.
Basically you'd just have to rip out the guys of the pedal, mount a pot in there and have fun
I believe it's actually a wheel and a cam btw.
Sorry - I'm almost totally ignorant....
Not sure what a true bypass is...
I'd guess it means a switch shortcutting the circuit
As opposed to just turning the pot to max?
Does my pedal then not have a true bypass already that I can just leave in?
And would there then be any use for a buffer?
Not sure what a true bypass is...
I'd guess it means a switch shortcutting the circuit
As opposed to just turning the pot to max?
Does my pedal then not have a true bypass already that I can just leave in?
And would there then be any use for a buffer?
I reckon you should be weary with this. Morley pedals run optically, so you can't just convert it like you could a Crybaby or something similar.
If you are interested in building a volume pedal from scratch have a look at this: http://www.toontrack.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=35302
If you are interested in building a volume pedal from scratch have a look at this: http://www.toontrack.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=35302
Can a person get such parts?
Or must I use paperclips, prestick and rubber bands?
Or must I use paperclips, prestick and rubber bands?
Thanks Josh
I'm trying to utilize as much as the pedal hardware as possible.
The optical gadgets and circuitry we've decided are history.
So in that sense I am almost builing from scratch.
I'm trying to utilize as much as the pedal hardware as possible.
The optical gadgets and circuitry we've decided are history.
So in that sense I am almost builing from scratch.
http://www.morleypedals.com/pwv-iies.pdf
why not do a a Morley switch able wah / volume pedal might be able to salvage a lot of the case
why not do a a Morley switch able wah / volume pedal might be able to salvage a lot of the case
We thought about that briefly....
But the boffins reckon the wah circuit is primitive - and wouldn't bother (see discussion above somewhere).
I'm also not keen to dabble with more of those LED thingys.
A circuit I may be able to solder an extra pot....
But aiming lasers and welding attachments is for the rocket scientists ???
But the boffins reckon the wah circuit is primitive - and wouldn't bother (see discussion above somewhere).
I'm also not keen to dabble with more of those LED thingys.
A circuit I may be able to solder an extra pot....
But aiming lasers and welding attachments is for the rocket scientists ???
Hehe I don't speak engineer... I'm just the architect ?MikeM wrote: I believe it's actually a wheel and a cam btw.
Then don't let anyone know you don't know what a cam is. :?Chocklit_Thunda wrote:Hehe I don't speak engineer... I'm just the architect ?
After few distractions....
Can anyone answer these questions:
1. Is it a big deal to set it so that it attenuates as you pull back from middle.
And amplifies from middle forward?
2. Does my pedal then not have a true bypass already that I can just leave in?
And would there then be any use for a buffer?
3. Where do I get / how do I manufacture the cam mechanism?
4. And for bonus points - any suggestions for utilizing the old volume knob?
Can anyone answer these questions:
1. Is it a big deal to set it so that it attenuates as you pull back from middle.
And amplifies from middle forward?
2. Does my pedal then not have a true bypass already that I can just leave in?
And would there then be any use for a buffer?
3. Where do I get / how do I manufacture the cam mechanism?
4. And for bonus points - any suggestions for utilizing the old volume knob?
2. If your pedal has a stomp switch it may have a true bypass in place. If not and its just the usual Morley style were you operate the foot treadle to turn it on then it's not true bypass.
4. Take out the volume pot, mount it sideways and viola ?
As for the cam you could get two pulley wheels and stick em onto each other.
4. Take out the volume pot, mount it sideways and viola ?
As for the cam you could get two pulley wheels and stick em onto each other.
Thanks Thunda
2. It has a bypass stomp switch. Nice and solid like the entire chasis.
Morley gets that right... Built like a tank.
Does that mean i need not worry about buffering, and the circuit can be passive?
4. Eureka!
I am about to scrub up.
Will keep you posted.
Any clues where I find such little pulley wheels?
And that EB mechanism picture would be really useful.
2. It has a bypass stomp switch. Nice and solid like the entire chasis.
Morley gets that right... Built like a tank.
Does that mean i need not worry about buffering, and the circuit can be passive?
4. Eureka!
I am about to scrub up.
Will keep you posted.
Any clues where I find such little pulley wheels?
And that EB mechanism picture would be really useful.
I can't get a clear picture of the inside on my phones camera. The openings are too small and the finish is shiny black so the flash bounces off everything :-\
No worries.
Change of plan after opening the casing.
The casing is such that there's no real way to get the 'cam' mechanism in.
However - The circuit board is designed as a template for 3 models.
Wah ; wah/volume ; distortion/wah/volume
So its just a matter of getting a handful of components and plugging them in.
An idiot could do it.
10/10 to Morley - beautifully marked PC board.
Maybe it won't be the greatest wah - but a good first project for me.
Thanks all.
And will keep you posted.
Change of plan after opening the casing.
The casing is such that there's no real way to get the 'cam' mechanism in.
However - The circuit board is designed as a template for 3 models.
Wah ; wah/volume ; distortion/wah/volume
So its just a matter of getting a handful of components and plugging them in.
An idiot could do it.
10/10 to Morley - beautifully marked PC board.
Maybe it won't be the greatest wah - but a good first project for me.
Thanks all.
And will keep you posted.
This has got me gasing to do something with my old cry baby wah... I don't really like the wah very much. And the sweep becomes like a step as soon as I use any of my driver pedals with it. What to make? What to make? I am thinking an active volume with a switchable 0 to full or 0 to boosted... Hmmmmm?
How about something Rotovibe inspired?DDR4LYF wrote: This has got me gasing to do something with my old cry baby wah... I don't really like the wah very much. And the sweep becomes like a step as soon as I use any of my driver pedals with it. What to make? What to make? I am thinking an active volume with a switchable 0 to full or 0 to boosted... Hmmmmm?