Hi there
If you'll pay postage - i'm happy to take them for 150.

If you're ok to post them to Paarl - at my risk...
You can just send me your bank details.

Cheers
Paul
076-795 2622

Hi andrew

You still got that TT?

Would you accept 500?

Cheers
Paul

I have several 2x action truss rods I will not be using if u interested. They are the hex nut type from Stew Mac.
Problem with them is I couldn't find a way to use them adjusting from the headstock.
On a gibson style angled head it would be fine. On a tele it would mean digging out a massive chunk to fit in an adusting key.
Maybe someone else knows how... or they could adjust from the body side.
I thought of installing upside down - but then the rod would bend forward when tightening.

So we rather routed a curve with a single rod. But thats also no walk in the park.
Wouldn't do that for a once off build.
Double action would be much easier I think - if u figure out how.

The neck will never point exactly dead centre down the body
So the bridge can only be placed once the neck is screwed on.
A line down the centre of the fretboard should hit it dead centre.
Centre the saddles on their intonation screws and place bridge so that saddles lie at 2 x 12th fret from nut.
(You shouldn't just place it where you marked from a template)

Also better to complete the neck before routing. Then position it and trace the outline.
You can route away more wood from the joint - but you don't want to be messing with a completed neck.

The holes string thru holes are often the same on bridges - but don't bet on it.
Hardtail will certainly be different from a traditional tele bridge

I ordered a batch of things from Japan recently.
I have a spare Gotoh (as good as it gets) hardtail if you interested importing from Paarl rather.
I may also be able to help with a few other components when you need... I'm busy with a batch of teles ?

I've looked quite a bit into this...
I reckon anything goes.
Rule of thumb is -if you stike the wood it should go piiiiiiinggggg - and not just donk!

Snobs will say only rosewood / maple / ebony fretboards.
However some will argue African blackwood is the ultimate - just too scarce and expensive comercialy.

I reckon theres probably dozens of woods as good / better than alder and ash for electric bodies.
Fender uses alder because its cost effective and available - rosewood bodies i would imagine would be far superier - and WAY more expensive.

There are factors - oilyness, brittleness, softness, toxisity, etc that are factors...
But someone who understands wood can do anyting.
I have a friend making mindblowing clasical back and sides out of olienhout!

I reckon if you willing to take the gamble - go for it! Make sometin unique!

I got tongsol 5881's in the power stage.
Made a huge difference. Softened the fender ice-pick to the eardrum brightness. (at the expense of a few Watt)
Also v1 has a 5751. Also mellowed things up.

Sounds like we like to play the same styles - so I think if you want to change the in your face loud heavy hot rod into something bluesier - you may like this change.
I read somewhere SRV also like these tubes.

I also got a 12dw7 in v2 - no major tone change for me, but it does make the drive channel more sensible.
I got a torvac 12ax7 in v3 - similar to stock groove tube - just a better tube.

The end result is smoother, warmer, but still the great fender clean tone.
If you ok dropping from 30 to probably just over 20watts or so - definitely worth the expense and a 5 minute job anyone can do.
I still never get to break up volumes? but obviously I would get there sooner now i think.

I have a hotrod deluxe. Liked it first time I played it, and in time modified it to closer to what I want.
It's way louder than I need so I put in cooler pre amp and power tubes. The limited edition speaker is also not standard.
I like to tweek gear. I wouldn't want to do it to anything more expensive than a hot rod just yet.
Can't say its better or worse than anything.... But I reckon it sounds great at the price and I got something unique and personalized. And I leanrt a lot about tubes and stuff along the way.
Theres a million ways to mod amps. Hotrod is to me a good starting point.

Thanks for the info.
My stinkwood classical is not far from completion.
The builder does such fine work at an unbelievable price...
I'm hooked and already contemplating a 2nd.
I'm thinking more along flamenca lines this time.
Will definitely follow up the tambootie lead.

Post some pics and let us know how yours turns out

Stumbled on this thread from way back....

...mario... wrote:

I've been having this picture in my head, does anyone know if Tamboti have ever been used in a guitar?
Surely it must be usable 'coz its rockhard and so purdy

I'm gona bump this just to keep it going as I'd really like to know if Tamboti and other uncomon woods could make good guitarwoods other than for esthetics, this and a wood called "red iron bark/pink seligna" (for those who don't know seligna is part of the eucaluptus group (gumtrees they plant everywhere for paper etc.) but this specific species is very expensive, heavy and rockhard, its a very saught after furniture wood and has to be carefully kilndried for a very long time to avoid cracking)

I'm curious if you ever got answers to this.

I'm having a guitar built out of stinkwood.
The maker is very keen on african timber and says that most luthiers are limited in wood choice by cost,availability and their equipment.
I have a feeling he would build a tamboti guitar without any reservations.

I have thought about the same question myself.
I will ask him when we meet again...

Brilliant!
Thanks Alan.

Thats about what I was feeling / expecting / hoping.
I just needed to hear it from someone who knows more than me.


I will post pictures as soon as the guitar is done (or sooner).

The builder is Rudolf van der Spuy in Paarl.
You will not find a finer cabinet maker.
The last 2 years he has been focusing on making classical guitars.
I'm sure he won't mind some publicity.

Thanks for comments so far....

"Stinkwood may look a little plain for the back and sides"
True-ish - the grain is not prominent but once finished properly it has a lustre like few woods, and as it catches the light it shines and changes hue magically.
It has a sober sort of stateliness to me.
I'm keen on it as long as the tone is good.

"if your order is in then you may be committed"
Order is in - but we're still finalising the details.

Cedar / spruce
I'm keen on getting a warm sort of tone.
I've also recently hit 40 - so the sooner it mellows the better.

I'm 99% sure what I want:
Cedar top
Stinkwood back neck and sides
African blackwood fretboard, bridge and all the other bits

I just want to know if there maybe any surprises - as I've never heard of Stinkwood used in guitars before.

I have a friend trying his (prodigiously skilled) hand at classical guitar making.
After playing his prototype (mostly built of wenge) .... GAS!

My order is in - but i wuld just like to hear if anyone has any comments on wood selection.

Has anyone played - or would care to guess what it would be like - a classical guitar with stinkwood neck, back and sides?
Also - any guesses if it would combine equally well with cedar or spruce?

After first jam session i am gobsmacked.

The Fishman Loudbox mini amp gives me perfect control for both volume and tone.
The clarity is perfect and with 60w its crisper than going through 10 000w of PA.
So much more convenient in a practise session.

The acoustasonic guitar now shines.
I get the tone i'm looking for, and if i up the gain it gives a great chunky sound for lead lines.
Very comfy, no feedback, light, and almost unique.

Unplugged it has a volume much louder than an electric but much softer than an acousic.
I can play is the still of the night without waking family, or while watching tv if I wanted....

Bought it years ago on a whim, but now really just realizing my lucky strike.

Pictures and other reviews here:

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/fender-acoustasonic-stratocaster-electric-guitar

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/fender-acoustasonic-stratocaster-electric-guitar

I got one - and i'd never sell it.

No worries.
Change of plan after opening the casing.

The casing is such that there's no real way to get the 'cam' mechanism in.

However - The circuit board is designed as a template for 3 models.
Wah ; wah/volume ; distortion/wah/volume

So its just a matter of getting a handful of components and plugging them in.
An idiot could do it.
10/10 to Morley - beautifully marked PC board.

Maybe it won't be the greatest wah - but a good first project for me.

Thanks all.
And will keep you posted.

Bought myself a Fishman loudbox mini today.
It does the trick for me.

The Acoustasonic has fishman piezo eletric pickups under the bridge.
It has only 1 tone control - to me mostly like a treble filter.

If I drastically cut the mids on the Fishman i get a good natural sound.

Just tried it at home.
Won't say too much until I crank it a bit....
But i'm chuffed.
Both guitar and amp are impressive.

Thanks Thunda

2. It has a bypass stomp switch. Nice and solid like the entire chasis.
Morley gets that right... Built like a tank.
Does that mean i need not worry about buffering, and the circuit can be passive?

4. Eureka!

I am about to scrub up.
Will keep you posted.

Any clues where I find such little pulley wheels?

And that EB mechanism picture would be really useful.

After few distractions....
Can anyone answer these questions:

1. Is it a big deal to set it so that it attenuates as you pull back from middle.
And amplifies from middle forward?

2. Does my pedal then not have a true bypass already that I can just leave in?
And would there then be any use for a buffer?

3. Where do I get / how do I manufacture the cam mechanism?

4. And for bonus points - any suggestions for utilizing the old volume knob?

We thought about that briefly....

But the boffins reckon the wah circuit is primitive - and wouldn't bother (see discussion above somewhere).

I'm also not keen to dabble with more of those LED thingys.
A circuit I may be able to solder an extra pot....
But aiming lasers and welding attachments is for the rocket scientists ???

Thanks Josh

I'm trying to utilize as much as the pedal hardware as possible.
The optical gadgets and circuitry we've decided are history.
So in that sense I am almost builing from scratch.