Ouch, guess this is what happens when you play. Some essential dressing ahead...

??

modulator Fret wear is a good sign (you've been playing!). But that precise line down most of the frets is odd, usually it's the cowboys chords (frets 1-3) or it follows a box shape across ()or patterns around the box shape).

Curious, what have you been playing?

V8
No, not my doing. I would also like to know how this was achieved. My most-played oldest guitar does not even approach this, never mind just on two strings.
Now have most of it out, the recrown job ahead, no fun without the relevant expensive files.

modulator I would also like to know how this was achieved.

Looks like a slide player with the heaviest hand

Home made, renewable fret crown tool.

modulator Rather blunt crown, whereas some people said they liked playing on "pointy" frets. While some even offset the crown from the fret center.

Perhaps we're venturing into the weeds a bit on fret profile - but then again, there are those who have the skills/sensativity to appreciate those details.

I'm just about able to appreciate vintage frets (60/70's) width vs jumbo frets (shreddy smurf 90/00's) - though there often it's as much the neck profile difference as the frets. Got me wondering about it though. I'm probably used to a blunter, middle of the fret crown.

On guitar, I think I prefer a medium/medium (width/height) to vintage or jumbo. For bass, I think I prefer a thinner/lower fret to guitar. But I reckon my choices would be coloured by neck profile.

Yes, I concur, neck profile has more to do with my playing (very loosely used , not much of a player) than fret size. A middle-of-the-road fret is probably best.

Further to the guitar on the bench, after cleaning off the fretboard, and Lemon Oil / Hydrate treatment, I can see grooves in the fretboard wood . The previous owner must have played a lot, and must have had a monster grip.

While I have it on the bench, I added "Kinman" style treble bleeds to the (Alpha) Volume pots, 680 pF capacitor and 150 kOhm Resistor. I must admit my ears cannot really hear the effect on my other guitars, but maybe the Capacitor there (0.001 uF) is too large, bleeding through too wide a frequency spectrum.

Also, I pressed the pickup polepiece slugs to a stagger, following what I have on my other guitars.
The polepiece screws are M3, as expected form "Far East" products, and I have managed to strip some on other guitars - I think the soft Bobbin is a factor, but I now see the potting wax makes a hard "spacer" under the screw heads, and turning in the screws meets resistance from this, and strips the bobbin thread. Lesson learnt.

So, after some wasted time,

Frets better, not Purrfect. Grooves worn into fretboard...

Polepieces pushed a bit.

This solid semi-adjustable bridge fits loosely onto the bridge posts, leaning forward under tension. Whether this is a real issue, I cannot say, I added 0.3 mm shims to make this slop a bit less. I did not hear any Buzz, and the intonation was OK. But, OCD. There is still a lot of play on the post threads, one could possibly add a layer of solder. Apparently the GOTOH bridge fits these post inserts, allowing one to have adjustable saddles.

modulator So, after some wasted time,

Ahhh, I doubt it - unless the cat/dog was grumping

I was chating to some guitar/bass mates about frets (see what you started) - there's much opinion but little insights out there.

One thing that did impress me was the thought of using mandolin frets on a bass - my old hofner has a very low frets (well worn, but they were apparently very low from the factory) - and to keep that feel, I could go with mandolin frets. I did a dig around on talkbass and apparently it's not unusual in the bass world.