Well the metal work is done.
The splitter and AB/Y pedals are ready to be wired up. The only change is that I have a two pole sub mini toggle I’ll be using in the AB/Y so that I can switch the LEDs too.
The 3d printed template/jig worked well but wasn’t an unmitigated success. After the 3rd print didn’t quite fit (clearance wasn’t quite high enough) I decided to just live with the issue and start drilling. Because of this, there was a small gap between the plastic and metal, which caused slight inaccuracies and trapped shavings. Fortunately it didn’t seem to scratch the paint. Secondly, I had to tape them in place and on the back template I made the mistake of taping over one of the holes, which means I ended up drilling it a mm or two off… as it turns out this got swallowed by a bigger mistake when I drilled that hole to 12mm instead of 10mm :/ but I’ll deal with that with washers.
One thing is for sure, despite the small issues, it definitely made the metal work quicker, easier and more accurate. I’ll definitely use the technique next time, although I’ll probably refine the model slightly first.
After I’d finished drilling I did a test fit of the components I’ve got. Unfortunately there were a couple of issue.
1) It turns out I bought mini toggles rather than sub-mini, these should be easy enough to pick up.
2) The two volume pots and the second circuit’s gain pot are too large and I can’t get the jacks in past them. Unfortunately this could be a bigger issue because I haven’t had a lot of luck getting low profile pots in the past, will have to hunt around.
Despite the issues I’m going to go ahead with the build in the meantime. Tonight I aim to wire up the splitter and A/B/Y and replace the gain pot in my Stormsquatch, which is giving trouble. After that I need to cut the veroboard to size and the build the board itself, which will take a good few hours. Then I have a good few loose components to wire before I get to these… so with a bit of luck I’ll be able to source them before I need them.
