Zorand I know the Gio series is considered the lower range but I have to say this one is really well made, the binding on the neck and body is perfect and the hardware is not bad at all.

I've had two and played a good few more - they were better made than I expected. More consistent quality than the equivalent priced Squire (bullet/affinity). Binding on the neck ad the flamed top are nice touches though!

Zorand Anyway, I really like P90 pickups and just couldn't resist buying it.

Gotta admit, I'm curious myself - I'd dig to try one in that spec - I may well like it. My main objection to any Ibby that isn't a artist, is that the cleans sound a bit flat. Pickups tend to be quite hot (even the single coils) for good cleans, but w/P90s that could work quite well.

I did learn something though...There are artist copies in the Gio range...hmm.

If you do find out the story behind this beastie, do update us ?

The ONLY pictures I found were from somewhere in Argentina. In fact, the images I uploaded (apologies for that!) are from that site as mine is in pieces for detailed maintenance and I didn't take photos yet. Just got it a few days ago and although unused and generally in excellent condition, it was really filthy. But by the end of today it will be as good as when it left the factory (probably better).

This is that site: https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-725198938-ibanez-gio-p90-hamer-epiphone-gibson-cort-prs-peavey-fender-_JM

Unfortunately, there's not much info there either.

I've compared it in details with my Ibanez SC420 Classic (Japan), Ibanez JTK2 (Indonesia) and Ibanez ARX300 (I think from Korea?), and my other non-Ibanez guitars, and I don't find it inferior (in build quality) to most of my more expensive guitars. The nut could be better quality but that's an easy fix. The hardware is solid, the neck is fitted to the body realy well, the binding is perfect, the fretboard is good quality, dense rosewood, and the paint job is really good too! Maybe I just got lucky.

If you keen on playing it (I'm sure you'll enjoy it), I'm in Randburg (almost Honeydew) and you're are more than welcome to visit (same goes for Wern101). I work from home so during the day is even better. I do have a few other guitars you might find very interesting.

Hi tedibear,
The thought that it might be a fake did cross my mind but even if it is, I wouldn't mind because it's really well made. It would be a good platform for mods and experiments. In general, brands/names don't really matter to me or even where the guitar is made. For example, my Epi Wildkat Koa was made in China but it's flawless, which I can't say for the American Vintage 52RI Telecaster Plus (very long name!). Not made well at all but sounds really good though.

So, I value workmanship much more and how the guitar plays (once setup properly!). It just bugs me immensely not to know which model this one is!

I agree, the headstock does look odd for a Gio and the horns too.

There is a serial number in the brackets but it's a sticker?! I've seen it on some Ibanez guitars although I find it a bit weird.

Sorry, not American Vintage 52RI Telecaster Plus, but Telecaster Special.

Zorand

not saying its fake.. just odd, might be legit. might have a replacement neck.. who knows..
I'm certainly no expert on Ibanez and after posting here i found some old catalogs with similar shaped bodies but no P90's.. it seems if it is a GIO its a higher end GIO.

It does look stunning and as you say it plays and sounds good.. that's all that matters really..

Good idea! Maybe it's a replacement neck! I didn't think of that (although I should have?!). I'll take off the neck as soon as get some time and see if there's any info in the pocket or the neck itself.

The binding reminds me of SX Thinline Tele's and some Schecter's I've seen - could even be made in the same factory.

After seeing Rob Chapman talk about ghost building and how he did a lot of research to find factories that could build to his expectations (quality of finish, fretwork, etc), I'm less concerned about the brand and more interested about the factory that made it.

E.g. I've seen a Ibby and Fender from the Fuji-gen factory and both were beautifully made (and surprisingly similar...neck profile, finish, gotoh tuners).

Good info. I'll google Rob Chapman and ghost building. Thanks.

Zorand He talked about it in one of his early factory tours, can't really recall which one it was. Not that ghost building is a big secret in the internet age...it's long been done - in the US 'student' ranges were built for supermarkets/etc either in US factories (my harmony bass was made in the gretsch factory in 1964!) or later in Japan (Teisco, Kawai, President etc). I'm such a sucker for those wierd japanese things ?

Maybe try these series of tours,
for some reason the korean one rings a bell.

Thanks for the link. Great work and great post!

Some day I might write about all the "fun" I had restoring this one (see pic below) but it's too soon. The memories of the blisters, sweat and tears are still too fresh!

I restored it to almost original, the pickups were dead and 2 saddles broken, and then decided to change a few things. It took me a week just to figure out what it is, an Aria Pro II YS500, and about 2-3 months to restore. I've learned quite a lot in the process (steam dents, etc.) and very happy with the result.

Zorand Aria Pro II YS500, and about 2-3 months to restore. I've learned quite a lot in the process (steam dents, etc.) and very happy with the result.

This isn't a wierdo...but a winner. Love the Aria Pro II's. imho - custom shop quality at everyday prices. I've been on the lookout for a bass version that 'speaks to me', seen a few but still waiting for one that is somewhat unloved, but not completely trashed.

Sure @Tuckstir and the other builders around here would love to see that thread, particularly steaming out dents, I havn't read/seen anything about that process before.

I'm no builder, serious lack of patience and skills. But I have a talent for setups, particularly basses and strats.

If you are bored between builds, here's a collection of GT projects I've been maintaining, all sorts of wierd and wonderful in there: https://community.guitartalk.co.za/d/25403-buildmodrefurb-threads/11

Zorand Apologies for the image intensive post!

never apologies for giving us eye candy... in fact I believe you need more pictures... more I say

V8 Sure @tedibear and the other builders around here would love to see that thread, particularly steaming out dents, I havn't read/seen anything about that process before.

you know me tooo well
love seeing builds, and customized jobs on here..

as for steaming of dents..have not needed to use it yet.. but have seen the process while doing research for projects before..

here's a YouTube clips one of many

Zorand and very happy with the result.

And so you should be! She's a beaut!

Thanks guys.
A praise from people that actually appreciate and do this kind of stuff (and much more!), means a lot.

I will write up about the restoration when I have some more time.

I've seen that video on how to steam dents and it works (most of the time). That's how I learned but it takes much more time and effort to do it on hard maple (neck) than on pine wood. Patience is the key, and constant checking and wetting the cotton cloth. I mean, literally after every touch with the soldering iron, you have to check. It is not brain surgery but definitely no shortcuts here. I started on a scrap piece of maple and burned it a few times. I hated doing it but now I like it and I've done it on every guitar neck that hasn't got a finish (mine or for friends). A dent on a guitar body doesn't bother that much but on the neck, it just irritates the hell out of me.

Anyway, here is 2 pictures. I didn't take a picture when it was done, but you'll get the idea and you can see how the dent is getting smaller. The maple on the body is softer than on the neck so it went a bit quicker.

Tuckstir as for steaming of dents..have not needed to use it yet.. but have seen the process while doing research for projects before..

What kinda magic is this!!!! That's amazing, thanks!

I used basically the same technique to take out a perloid insert on a friends Gibson Les Paul Custom Lite. Steaming through a cloth until the glue disolves. The trick is not to disolve the glue under the frets as well!

Hey V8,
Thanks for the links. I'm sure I will learn a lot (can't wait till end of work day to start reading).

Patience and skills! Maybe I've learned some skills but the patience part is the real struggle!