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Meron Rigas wrote:
peterleroux wrote: It's mostly to answer this question that I'm giving it a try.

Apparently the position and construction both have a lot to do with tone- some people say that a MM pup in the P-bass position sounds more like a precision than a Stingray. I'm going to move it around and see. One of the things is that an active circuit can compensate for the loss of warmth you get when moving closer to the bridge- apparently the Stingray circuit was tweaked with the position of the pickup in mind, to compensate for the shortcomings of the tone.
Aha, makes for a interesting experiment!

You said "MM" pup, that's a mighty mite pup? It also crossed my mind that the active circuit could mask some of the tonal changes one would get from moving the pup around.

Keep us updated please - quite curious! I've got a old Hofner (missing the original pup) that I need to drop another pup into (Probably a P Bass passive, if I can find a reasonable one).
ah, sorry. I meant the big double humbucker MusicMan like the Stingray and Saber have-



I'm told that strat pickups works ok for bass- I have a R50 Chinese one I will bolt on just for laughs- but the Fender Musicmaster / Bronco basses had strat pups with blank covers to hide the fact that they had 6 polepieces. Probably won't be this weekend, but I will post some feedback on how this works out. I suspect I will end up placing the pickup more or less where most single humbucker basses have one in the Stingray 'sweetspot' or thereabouts
    17 days later
    Insight: pickup position is one of the very few things that can't be tweaked with a screwdriver or allen key after the build is finished

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
      Wizard wrote: Insight: pickup position is one of the very few things that can't be tweaked with a screwdriver or allen key after the build is finished

      Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
      good point.

      Here is a pic of some of the positions on the test rig:


      At the end of the day, towards neck- boomier, towards bridge- thinner, and it's more or less personal preference beyond that. I found that going closer to the neck than the P bass position started losing definition, and passively the stingray position was too thin. With the preamp however, I was able to dial a bit of thump in, so I'll be placing the pickup centred at the Stingray position, which is pretty close to where it was on the Cort Curbow this came out of:



      I've just picked up a piece of Oregon Pine at Country Woods, so I hope to be routing the body in the next few weeks.
        6 days later
        Very nice.
        Very fine grained for Oregon.
          18 days later
          Thanks Peter,

          This thread has come in useful along with this one on talk bass : (https://www.talkbass.com/threads/dr-dimentos-ongoing-p-pup-experiment.127322/page-4 to help me contemplate if the Pbass pup in the hofner is kinda the ballpark for a pbass.

          It's roughly in between the placement of a pbass and a p/j bass - which I'm happy to leave as is. Interesting Dr Dimentos comes to the same basic conclusion : closer to warm = warmer, closer to bridge = brighter/clearer.

          Did you get around to the 'bronco' experiment?. There's one hanging around the gear junkie - the pup sounds pretty good to my lofi ears. There's a thuddyness to the E string, while the rest sound fairly bright. It kinda reminds me of a vintage pbass in a way?

            3 years later

            So I sent drawings off this afternoon to a laser cutting fabricator to do this..

            The solid timber thing hasn't worked out over the last few years, so I'm going to try a danelectro-style supawood and spraypaint body, possibly with an f-hole- will see how I like the look once I get all the parts back. More news soon, hopefully...

              Looking good..
              am I'm reading correctly? you are going Supawood?
              why lasercut, and not CNC routed?

              Tuckstir yes, humble MDF. And I’m going with laser cutting because this guy has been responsive and has good pricing- i approached a few guys over the last 3 years about CNC milling but for various reasons they never came back with anything.

              Luckily Fender designs are so modular that it will be easy to replace the body if this one doesn’t work out

                Haha ok.. was wondering why you wanted to smoke out a factory..
                ?
                next time give me a shout
                we Have A CNC router which we mostly use to cut Polycarb Windows

                Fender designs been a bolt on.. as long as you keep the brigde position relative to the neck pocket.. you could make any design..
                MMMMM fretlest Flaming flying V with F-holes. ?

                Tuckstir
                thanks, that's an interesting offer. Where are you based? I'd much rather have something in real wood.

                  Tuckstir Awesome! I'm on the East Rand too. Let me see what I can source in terms of timber and then we can chat further. I've got a 'dumb' 2d set of drawings, presumably it will take a bit of work to turn that into gcode for milling. Let me think the design through and I'll be in touch.

                    Tuckstir cool, I think I might be on track with timber- how big is the working bed for your CNC?
                    Would like to take this discussion offline but unless I'm missing something we can't do PMs here. My email address is my user name @gmail.com

                      24 days later

                      Just an update- I have sent drawings to @Tuckstir, who has already routed the raw lumber straight on both edges, and I will be gluing up the body blank this weekend to get it milled out- with a bit of luck I'll be playing fretless by the end of the month!

                      here are some action shots of stage 1 the side milling,
                      We took of 1mm per side

                      a month later

                      ...and I'll be picking up the completed body from @Tuckstir tomorrow - a bit of shaping (belly cut, forearm contour and roundovers) and some Danish Oil and it will be ready to assemble ?