Stoffeltoo wrote:
I have been thinking of purchasing Polystyrene tiles to stick to the ceiling, walls and just about everything to insulate the room and make it more temperature stable. Has it been done and will it keep the temperatures more stable?
To be honest, I know far less about the heat insulation side than I do about the acoustics, and I think that you should always check with a roofing specialist before undertaking any modifications - at the very least a roofing expert will be able to confirm that your roof structure can take the extra weight of any modifications.
However, I would imagine that polystyrene will help (particularly the stuff with foil on one side), but probably not enough - you'd still need insulation between the joists. If you really can't get into the roof cavity easily, there are the loose fill solutions that can be pumped in through relatively small spaces.
FYI - where sound insulation is a concern, warm roof solutions are usually used (where the insulation is below the roof, leaving the air gap between ceiling and insulation) rather than cold roof (where it is between roof and insulation. The reason for this is the condensation - you need to ventilate a cold roof solution and that compromises sound isolation.
Also note that you have to get at least 250mm thickness of insulation if you use Aerolite, but in more confined spaces you could get away with far thinner rigid fibreglass boards (Energylite) - which also work better for sound isolation.
For sound proofing I am considering heavy drapes and corner traps.
NB - "acoustic treatment", not "soundproofing". Acoustic treatment controls the acoustics within a room but does little to soundproof it (stop sound from getting in and escaping the room) and vice versa. Bass traps are the single best thing you can do to any small room and the more the merrier. Drapes are better than nothing but unless your room looks like an old fashioned hall with tons (literally) of heavily backed velour drapes arranged in deep pleats. They are not really very effective for the space they take up. Far better to build a few absorbent panels from rigid fibreglass (usually 1.2m long x .6 wide and 5cm thick and spaced at least 2.5cm - preferably 5cm - from the walls), and place them at the key mirror points.
