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  • Amplification

  • wanting to build new enclosure for my peavey classic 30 combo

The stock blue marvel spkr isnt great and I threw mine out and replaced it with a celestion g12h30 70th anniversary. I play a 2001 Gibson Historic R8 les paul with florance voodoo 59 paf pickups into the clean channel. Trouble is that with the mighty les paul low end, playing my c30 at greater than 4 on the mv gives terrible cabinet vibration. I considered having a new enclosure made that is exactly the same size as my c 30 and that the chassis can just slide into and the the new spkr be mounted in the same way peavey build them. I was thinking that 3/4 inch birch ply would be rock solid and keep vibration to a minimum. I sourced from the USA a toms tube tamer for the c30 and this kills tube rattle dead.

Is there a particular wood joint that would keep the enclosure rigid and rattle free at high volume and is birch ply a good choice of wood ?

Is there a blueprint for making your own c30 enclosure ?

any help gratefully appreciated ?
    nobody ever do a job like this ?
      Phooter wrote:
      Is there a particular wood joint that would keep the enclosure rigid and rattle free at high volume and is birch ply a good choice of wood ?
      Hey phooter: I can only give some advice on one question.

      Birch ply is awesome for your project, it's pretty easy to work with and it'll hold up really well. I bought a fat slab from Chamberlins which was about 2.3 x 1.2 and it put me back around R350-00 and they dropped off for free. I got it a bit cheaper because it had some paint messed on it. Makes no diffs.

      For making a cabinet like this, I strongly believe in finger or box joints.



      They are pretty simple to make and are Über strong, just takes some patience, I've done joints using a jicksaw once and while it took ages, the box was bullet proof.

      I'm sealing the joints of my 4 x 12 cabinet box with a product called cottonflox, it's a chopped up fibreglass strand mixed with resin that dries rock hard and sticks to ply like poo in a shoe.



        flatfourfan wrote: Birch ply is awesome for your project, it's pretty easy to work with and it'll hold up really well. I bought a fat slab from Chamberlins which was about 2.3 x 1.2 and it put me back around R350-00 and they dropped off for free. I got it a bit cheaper because it had some paint messed on it. Makes no diffs.
        Where's this place?
          MikeM wrote:
          flatfourfan wrote: Birch ply is awesome for your project, it's pretty easy to work with and it'll hold up really well. I bought a fat slab from Chamberlins which was about 2.3 x 1.2 and it put me back around R350-00 and they dropped off for free. I got it a bit cheaper because it had some paint messed on it. Makes no diffs.
          Where's this place?
          They have a few branches in Pta, Riviera and out East I think. I went directly to their factory in Watloo. They had quite a bit of factory seconds stuff that was also for sale. Normal price for Birch Marine Ply is about R700 for a sheet of the same size.

            MikeM wrote:
            flatfourfan wrote: Birch ply is awesome for your project, it's pretty easy to work with and it'll hold up really well. I bought a fat slab from Chamberlins which was about 2.3 x 1.2 and it put me back around R350-00 and they dropped off for free. I got it a bit cheaper because it had some paint messed on it. Makes no diffs.
            Where's this place?
            There's one 2 km's from my house.
              nicovlogg wrote: There's one 2 km's from my house.
              When're we gonna go? ?
                A classic 30 at > 4 volume? are you playing stadiums? ? For gigging mine barely gets to 3 before they usually complain and ask me to turn it down.
                  nick wrote: A classic 30 at > 4 volume? are you playing stadiums? ? For gigging mine barely gets to 3 before they usually complain and ask me to turn it down.
                  2.5 for me..
                    on a similar note,

                    a friend of mine and i are trying to build the chassis into a head for similar reasons to use with a 2x12 cab. (rattling open back)
                    how is the best way to mount the chassis? the tubes are sticking straight out the back if we make the dials face the front of the cab instead of the top. Do we use a new chassis and move the tubes to be vertical like most designs? is this even necessary?

                    sorry for the hijack but it is related by new cab for classic 30?!?!
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