Rather you say something, and I fix my error. No such thing as over-sensitive. Have a good one!

True. guitarforum.co.za is not a representation of what people say in person and on YouTube. I truly apologise for the generalisation. I came out swinging in a brawl that didn't exist. And worse, late. Cheers. I'll edit it shortly.

So Gibson (not all the owners-sorry julle) is going to try convince us that Tokai LP and SG models are just counterfeit Gibsons, but the problem is: The don't say "Gibson" or "Made in U.S.A." anywhere and they also clearly pride themselves on branding their models with THEIR OWN brandname. That all said, If Gibson wins the debate on Tokai being a counterfeit, what are they then claiming? That all the PRS, ESP, Ibanez, etc guitars that have a single cutaway made of mahogany are also counterfeits? Biggest irony is that Tokai does not copy any ANY current model Gibsons, only the construction method of the old redundant way Gibson used to build instruments. You know, when they were worth buying.

If GIbson wants us to buy Gibsons. They must build them properly.

Business 101: Cut out competition, raise prices, cut corners and costs to increase profit.
Unfortunately they got the order wrong. You can't cut corners before cutting out the competition.

body swapped out it seems. Hope you didn't pay premium price. That colour makes me think of GSA range. Please let us know or post a pic of whole guitar. this thread is killing me...

I dont think that is a zero trem on that guitar. Just need a claw and 3 springs.

Good luck

Warning: semi-thread hijack in process.

I'm in a similar position, I have been given a Gibson single P90 model ES175 (somewhere between '49 and '51). Sides are all but destroyed. I figure I'll fix her up enough to play, but i am worried my kids or a family friend might sell it once I peg off. I would hate to buy a Gibson Early 50's guitar for big coin, and then find out it has been "messed" with.

So do I:
a). Fix it up for me to play and make an obvious change to it so it can't be mistakenly seen as original?
b). Restore it properly (I am not planning on selling it), Spending far more than would be able to be justified to Wife?

Sides and Fretwork are all but missing, electronics are actually missing.

I'm Definately in!

Grant is not always easy to get hold of, if you need something minor done, just go to your local music shop. Most of the techs can do little things well.

I do most things myself for my guitars, the stuff I can't do, Grant does. I have only used a few others but after getting seriously burned by a useless repair in the UK, I stopped hopping around.

Music Connection has a dep. and so does Marshall in Woodmead.

What do you need done?

No headaches here. I used jack in the past but pd runs on the pi with alsa now alot better than it used to.

you need to drop a [loadbang]-[delay 1000]-[pd dsp 1] somewhere to wait a bit at patch startup before turning on audio dsp. Then headless works for me (using ssh or with nothing attached at all). My delay pedal (spin FV-1 based) uses an arduino to make it tap tempo, so now I am trying to decide on whether to go spi or Fudi to send data to the pi. pduino?

my patch is very simple, basically 10 filters, and about a 50tap delay ranging from 1ms-60ms (room) added a long delay for fun (built last night) I tried a 20 sec delay which it handled fine. But I dont use delay longer than 600ms nor a looper, so was just curiousity. You are welcome to send me a patch and ill check how it performs.

latency est rig is going to be:
mono audio file played stereo from PC.
left side through pi running a bypass patch
right side bypassed.
record stereo in PC

measure the latency between 2 peaks of a clap.

Ok I have it up and running with a latency that is all but non existent and, compared to the trouble i had last year using usb soundcards, a breeze to set up. The fact that a USB card can be as cheap as R35 and give a similar latency was pretty cool though.

Raspberry pi model B + Wolfson soundcard + SD = R1300.

soundcard has not yet got drivers built in kernel so had to Google a bit to find an image to start with.
Looks like it is more stable without the USB hoops (force 1.1 mode, disable ethernet, etc) i had to jump through for lower latency so i am loving it.

So if anyone is thinking of getting that wolfson card, remember you will be locked at the current kernel (if you update, you will have to complile your own kernel with the patches). Not a big deal for me, I just use this SD card for this application.

I'll be very surprised if latency is over 10ms. It is definitely quicker than my laptop with a R3000 soundcard running at "8ms" which is closer to 15ms roundtrip...

Ok summary:
-download Ragnars patched raspbian kernel or a full image from same thread: http://www.element14.com/community/message/107186?tstart=0#107186
-set up soundcard using usecase scripts (alsamixer has a hundred non coherent options, scripts are included and very simple)
-test using arecord and aplay.
-install pd-extended using apt-get, etc.
-build a patch and adjust audio settings etc.
-then call it with: pd-extended -alsa -nomidi -nogui -audiodev 0 patchname.pd

!Without "-nogui -audiodev 0", i get errors with memory allocation and if it pops up again i'll have to move to pd-vanilla which is apparently working without error on this wolfson card.

I have it running a patch with speaker and room emulation: guitar-pedalboard =THIS= headphones. would work as a looper easily.

Hey guys. I also have a love/hate relationship with my pi. I have a great little puredata synth running that I want to use live with my guitar rig as randomness. I bought the wolfson board this morning from pifactory.co.za for R541.50 which was the cheapest by quite a bit and they had stock. ( ill collect to save on courier).

Problems with pi:
Sd card corruption as pedalboards aren't going to shutdown -h NOW for you. Solution I found is alot of hacking minimizing writes to sd card but not yet getting my hopes up.

And of course audio card doubles the cost price.

For me, its fun but DSP can be entered into for about the same cost with a development board and the product will be far more stable and marketable. I just like the idea of the pi more than the pi itself audiowise. Lastly the drivers for wolfson aren't even supported yet. More hacking! Yay



Sent from Tapatalk 2

Ok I am all for cheap stuff:
cables, guitars with pickups worth more than the guitar, cab and even power amps.
But
The Bugera amps need a bit of work to make them reliable. In fact I've seen a few tube amps from even big makes that need work for reliability.

Firstly you need to retube it when you buy 2nd hand. R1200ish.,
Then you need to get hold of some chassis mounted tube sockets and take wires from the pcb they were attached to. Now you actually have a chance. Amp will now be as reliable as any decent tube amp (keep a spare in the boot).

if its an old tube amp I mentally add R2000 to prices for safety.

That's just me. Still a good deal though.

like Pete I would have paid him his R450, then told him quite flatly that I would be talking to the band about whether or not we want to play here again as the R3000 was clearly not part of the door.

Him asking for you to start earlier and end later and play effectively an extra set for the same 15% of the door is pretty much bull. It is how its done, and what happened to you is common. Neither side is wrong as if you had discussed with him before resuming, no misunderstanding would have occurred.

however him asking for 15% was pushing his luck, and you not paying him a cent would have been bad attitude considering the misunderstanding that he tried to bank on...

Yes Alan you are completely right (i read manuals).

Just adding that if you limit your choices to only those with "guitar inputs" with 1M+ inputs (esp 2nd hand), then you could spend a bit more coin for very little difference. Especially if someone else reads this thread and has an older card already that may have instrument inputs and not bother to look for a manual to see why all their VST's sound like mud or an interface pops up for cheap but doesn't have a guitar input, so double the money spent instead of just putting a boss pedal in front (even the tube die hards of us have
one lying around).

All of the above still assumes you aren't using a truly dodgy R50 jobbie, or the internal mic input (obvious?) but even then the improvement is markable with a buffer.

Not sure if anyone said this or something similar, so just adding that you should use a buffer before your soundcard to see if the cards input has a high enough impedance. A simple test, not useful to compare buffers, but test for checking if the soundcard has a TRUE guitar input impedance.

plug guitar into soundcard, record something on track 1.

plug guitar into boss pedal (any buffered bypass will do) boss pedal should have a battery or power supply but be "off" or bypassed. record similar riff on track 2.

compare the recordings.
if the boss pedal track sounds clearer or better, then your card needs a buffer in front.

another test is if the volume pot on your guitar acts weirdly or unnatural without a boss pedal I front.

just because it needs a buffer has zero relation to whether the card is good or bad. cheers

I would highly recommend opening it up, I used to play with a 4x12 with only the bottom two speakers installed, but now I play a 4x12 (all 4 are vintage 30's) with the top 3rd of the back panel removed.

It doesn't work well for Low (C# or 7 string palm muting etc) tunings, but for clean -> breakup -> overdrive (foo fighters as my heaviest territory), it is a huge improvement in the presence, with less low mud.

Cheers

I dont keep more than 5 drive pedals at a time. 3 on my board. I try to keep them all 9VDC or 12VAC to minimise power supply craziness. I think a limit of 3 pedals per type. ie 3 delays, one decent analog sounding, one for pristine, one for its weird character, is reasonable. But I break even that rule.

I dont think I've gigged with more than 7 FX pedals (not counting noise suppressor/tuner/AB selector/amp channel switch or ext Tap switch)
wah
drive x2
chorus
delay x2
reverb

But Im down to 3 pedals now:
-TS pedal into
-another TS which is built into a tube OD pedal
-programmable delay.

(I know its more like 2 delays and 3 overdrives, but it looks like 3 pedals...)

Adding my wah (hardly used live tho) is the next step.

ok ill probably get shot for this, but I love the Tokai teles. I think that I prefer uncovered neck pickups so ill pull it off when I get mine. Think you should go compare tele to tele. your baja will be crowned if that's your thing, but you may still only have 2 Teles at the end of this. I've always liked the older (yours fits) MIM strats and teles, even their pickups. So it is fairly level playing feild for the name brands. If I was buying new, Tokai breezy over HW1 for sure, and price wise Tokai just wins as you start increasing the amount of money you are willing to spend too. I will (not an empty promise) put my money where my mouth is, and get a Tokai or maybe just a Tokai neck for my Aerodyne if the wait gets to me...

Go have a look at what the new seymour duncans are going to be retailing at. It's financially feasible for us to support local builders, because its going to be custom made for us and cheaper. Only catch is you need to know what you want / dont want.

I just put in a naughty order for a Humbucker bobbin with a mix of rod magnets and dummy slugs (no bar magnet) so a custom z coil (think G&L) that looks like a humbucker. I swear ill post a review when I get it.

I told him I was in no rush as its a fathersday gift. So we all will have to excercise some patience.

Had "The Boss", best tele bridge pu if you don't mind a bit of hum. Got plenty tops and added low mids, really just a hotter vintage tone. Couldn't justify keeping it when I sold my hollow body Tele (not thinline).

been using a GFS neovin for bridge pu, no hum, the tone isn't perfect but its the closest I've found in the tops in the humcancelling world. (I haven't tried the dimarzio area range tho so salt required- i have tried: cool and hot rails, Fastrack 1, 2, T, stacked seymour duncan something, EMG Tele set)

But now I found a guy who will wind pretty much anything at a fair price. Neil Pincus on the west rand. And I'm returning to standard singles.

So The Boss is my recommendation or something similar...