I have a Marshall JVM410H that's doing nothing but making popping noises come from the speaker, and the actual amp is humming (like, something inside the chassis).

I had a look at the list of amp techs but am wondering if anyone can recommend someone who has the skill and has reasonable rates. Here's the list but if you know anyone else please feel free to mention them too.

Thanks.

• Marshall Music CPT, ask for Zenon

• Karel Mars (Paarl - forum member) http://www.marsamps.co.za/

• Matt Alison(Forum Member) http://www.ashtonaudio.com/

• Jeremy Busby (Bothner's Plumstead but repairs amps privately)

• Nicholas Loock (Northern Suburbs - Forum Member)

• Proteknik (Claremont)

And for reference, the JVM (there's another board under that, so I imagine it's a nightmare to work on):

V8 Raru Squire SS starter pack: R3499

Bothners Squire SS starter pack: R4320

To me, you pay whatever Raru asks. But you visit Bothers and negotiate a price better than Raru. Great if you live nearby Bothners or happen to be passing, not so much otherwise.

I read an article ages ago about someone solving the G string volume problem by using a different (thinner) gauge on that string only. Like if the set has a 16 put a 15 on there instead. That's a bit of an awkward fix though.

But if your pole pieces are isolated from the winding you should be able to quite easily shift them up or down. Like in the middle of the picture below you can see the poles fit inside their own sheaths. Not all pickups are like this though, and I have no idea how you'd check, apart from asking the manufacturer, digging online somewhere for your pickups, or unless you have access to an x-ray machine. Maybe there's an electrical test, but that's beyond my knowledge.

Anyone want an almost new Les Paul with an aftermarket nut, made of human bone? Only R35k.

I almost wanted to ask if it was from an amputated limb or a cadaver.

https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-musical-instruments/kraaifontein/gibson-us-standard-les-paul-with-custom-slash-ii-signature-pickups/1003253929690910018518109

guidothepimmp

It's actually an English word too. It's widely used in classical circles. No one talks about the "tone" of their cello, for example. Tone is a synonym though, so you're not entirely wrong. I mean, it's a valid observation for non-classically-trained guitarists.

Note the "i" is supposed to be pronounced like an "a".

Sean1983 I saw a youtube video with Rob Chapman and the winners of the metal pedal shoot out were the EVH 5150, the Freedman BE a Diesel pedal and the Boss Metalcore.

Just be aware that here Lee was randomly turning knobs, which is not the best way to tweak a pedal to get a good sound, and there was only a small pool of pedals they went through. With that said the drive pedal market is completely oversaturated so it's difficult to choose.

But the Orange amps should have a ton of gain, and you might not even need a pedal, unless you don't like the Orange flavour of gain (then why buy one), or you want to go from clean to dirty and the amp only has one channel. But I'd always choose tube gain over transistor gain (hint: pedals are full of transistors).

If you want a tube amp get a tube amp. People rave about the Katana but it's known more for its versatility and features than it's amazing tone. A tube amp will have a beautiful quality about it that the Katana can't capture.

It makes more sense to get the amp (and cab?), then decide if you actually need a pedal. And if you do, you may just need a boost (like a Tubescreamer or whatever) to push the tube gain a little further, rather than a distortion pedal.

modulator Players' skill, well, tie.

I must be honest I thought similarly, and ultimately voted for the "correct" headstock.

(Just to qualify, by "correct" I mean pointy, obviously.)

V8 Peace Sells (but who's buying?).

Nice.

Good luck to you both. May the man with the pointy headstock win. ;P