Taipan Tone Bar

MikeM

Hey guys

Long story short, there is a special on these for the next 2 days, and shipping is done via EMS (Typically 5-6 working days and insured) which costs $28. The tonebar costs $32. Anyone want one? Can't bear to pay as much for shipping as I do for the bar... The template costs $16, I will be buying one, can make copies if you need. There are also otherthings available if anyone is interested ?

http://taipantone.com/pages/products%202.html

Everything's there.

Cheers
Mike

AlanRatcliffe

I've been considering getting their Jacoby model (which the bridge bolts into from the top, clamping the body between the bridge and the tonebar) in brass, but haven't gotten around to enquiring about price. If it's anything like the same price, I'm in...

MikeM

The tonebar is usually $40, but it is on special. Sadly the Jacoby model is a whopping $60 ☹

Gearhead

? Guys guys whatsda big fuss. I can see there can be magic in a well made Tele bridge but this thing...

Brass, 6061 and 304 are readily available locally (e.g. I can pick up 6061 from a scrap bin at work for free) and the dimensioning does not need to be exactly like theirs. The template you do not need for such a simple shape and machining the material costs only a few rand. I could offer you to have the same article made for their normal price excluding shipping and I would still be making money without getting my hands dirty.

AlanRatcliffe

No special on the Jacoby? Damn! Try it anyway (unless you already have?).

Hmm, that's still not bad for what it is though (about R620 with half the shipping and VAT by my reckoning). I expected more as their bridges are $120 (I'd prefer to get a Glendale anyway).

OK. I'm in. Split the shipping down the middle? Unless someone else wants in too...

[EDIT] @Gearhead - the Jacoby is a bit more complex as it has a lip and the threaded screw holes have to line up with the bridge holes. Can that still be done cheaply?

MikeM

Geert. I will buy one from you ?

Usually it's cheaper to make more of one thing so, I would also be up for a Jacoby one if that's the case ?

MikeM

Alan assuming that goes nowhere, I am good to split half ? I might even try the Jacoby, just scared of fitment - holes aligning and such... Think it'll be a worry?

Gearhead

Alan Ratcliffe wrote [EDIT] @Gearhead - the Jacoby is a bit more complex as it has a lip and the threaded screw holes have to line up with the bridge holes. Can that still be done cheaply?

I would say that once the material is bought and clamped onto the machine bed, most of the cost is sunk; one or two operations will not add a lot of cost. Let me make a drawing and get a quote tomorrow before 16h, so you can still decide to go to the Americans. Please check my dims here:
- distance between the screw holes 3 times 21.83mm?
- thread size of the screws used M5?
- distance between the line of the ferrules and the line of the screws 7.93mm?
- distance between the ferrule centers 5 times 10.95mm?
- diameter of the ferrule hole 6.35mm?
- diameter of the string hole 3.18mm?
I only have one Tele bridge here so it's hard to compare...

Let me know the material of choice. The brass I have to get a little time to source, only found round bar and hexagons so far. The 304 is easier and for Aluminium I can grab 5182, 5083 or 6061 - I propose the former since it is flexible yet takes tremendous strain (they also make airplane wings out of it).

MikeM wrote Alan assuming that goes nowhere

Oh ye of little faith >☹

MikeM wrote just scared of fitment - holes aligning and such...

If you cannot get one big part to align straight onto another, how would you drill 6 ferrule holes you {....} ? ?

MikeM

Hehehe. Sorry Geert, I should have phrased that better.

I meant "in case" - as I was not sure if you were being serious ?

I do not have any hardware up here so I cannot help with measurements. Worst case scenario we can ask on the Tele forum ?

Ferrule holes are easy compared to alligning 2 big pieces ? I battled with my neck pocket - the holes weren't perfectly perpindicular (Yes I used our press, but must have stuffed up :/)

MikeM

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/bad-dog-cafe/172835-awesome-service-usacg-taipan-tone.html#post1975785

Haven't found much Jacoby stuff..

AlanRatcliffe

@ Mike: I don't see it being a problem to fit. Ever drill through body string holes? This'll be a doddle compared to that - just use the existing string holes on the back to get the position the tonebar. Enlarge the bridge screw holes from the top and if you still need them deeper, use the tonebar to mark the position from the back and drill towards the existing holes. Even if you end up slightly off, just enlarge the bolt holes slightly and it'll give you wiggle room.

@ GH: your measurements seem to be from a modern six saddle bridge. The vintage dimensions are the same aside from:
- distance between the screw holes 3 x 21.5mm
- distance between the ferrule and screw lines about 7mm (difficult to measure with the bridge in place).
- distance between the ferrule centers 5 x 10.95mm

Also, there is quite a bit of variance from manufacturer to manufacturer - easily anywhere up to 0.5mm, so the tolerance doesn't have to be too tight. ?

Actually thinking of it now, I don't need the top flange - I prefer flush fit to the surface (with ferrules too). I don't know how Mike feels about that though - the flange lets you be a little sloppier with the rout for the tonebar and still hide it.

I think brass will work nicely - the slight mid emphasis will work for my ash bodied guitar.

Gearhead

Could nickel plate the whole thing for better belt-scratch-resistance, beat those yanks at their own game. Or chrome (which btw tends to be a chrome layer ON TOP OF nickel plating for better shininess). I don't seem to get why the rout in the pictures includes counterbore'd string holes (unless they are as good at alignment as MikeM).
Two further suggestions (EDIT: we seem to be thinking along the same lines here): not put a lip on the thing (one can never get the routing depth accurate enough to spread the load between top and bottom, rather have the bottom do the work) and knurl the bottom face (again increasing contact pressure onto the wood).

MikeM

I'd prefer to reccess mine just a bit actually, just need to make sure GH has the radius made according to the bit we use so we can have it fit perfect.

Sorry I am in model building mode and did not even think of that Alan..

Hmmmm, well I am probably going to get a Fender 3 saddle bridge and stick some new saddles on. I am guessing those are the dimensions you just mentioned Alan?

Nickel playing looks better to me than chrome so I am all for it ? GH, typical engineer, thinking of the knurling. Great idea ?

Gearhead

MikeM wrote just need to make sure GH has the radius made according to the bit we use so we can have it fit perfect.

My smaller-radius-but-still-big-enough-for-deep-cuts bit is r6 (12mm dia). Yours?

MikeM wrote typical engineer, thinking of the knurling

(says arrogantly) I get paid the big bucks for thinking out of the box 8)

MikeM

I was thinking of the copy router bit... ? But whatever works man..

Hehe yes yes yes, don't let that head get too big ?

AlanRatcliffe

Brass for me - will look good against my trans red finish. Nickel is cool looking, but not durable enough for me , so either chrome or plain brass (which can be cleaned up and polished easily enough anyway).

I am guessing those are the dimensions you just mentioned Alan?

Yes, the dimensions I gave are the 3-saddle standard.

I don't seem to get why the rout in the pictures includes counterbore'd string holes

LOL! Dunno. Maybe the factory counterbore for ferrules was really deep? Nice to see USACG

Goody! Now all I need for my StraTele is a Glendale bridge, to countersink the neck plate and get some inserts and bolts for the neck (in fact I want to do that for all my bolt-ons).

I can finish up the corners with a Dremel, so any radius is fine ?

Gearhead

Alan Ratcliffe wrote Brass for me - will look good against my trans red finish.
{..}
Goody! Now all I need for my StraTele is a Glendale bridge

Eh? I think the guru still needs to speak wisdom on knurling the bottom face. Would really like to know whatsda verdict on the pressure thing. Please.
What about sharing shipping on Glendale bridges? I know I want, just cannot justify. Sharing shipping would be just such an excuse ?

Edit: one more question: I would prefer to have the threaded M5 holes drilled and tapped right through. Blind tapping is a bitch and it necessitates a thicker bar since for full strength you need 2x the thread diameter.

Alan Ratcliffe wrote get some inserts and bolts for the neck

The Gearhead brought enough M5 inserts from Europe to do 5 guitars... Interested? They are for sale for cheap at better DIY stores there...

MikeM

I will be going for Glendale saddles and Fender vintage bridge ? Not going to fork out for their bridges, also think it's a bit silly ?

I think this however is going to add some balls and sustain ? Man I am REALLY excited!!!

GH - Appluading ?

Has the GH tested them yet? ?

After the tele I think I will try my hand at a neck. Would love a chunky chunky full maple one ?

AlanRatcliffe

Gearhead wrote Eh? I think the guru still needs to speak wisdom on knurling the bottom face. Would really like to know whatsda verdict on the pressure thing.

I honestly don't know for sure. I would have thought that the pressure from the bolts would compress the wood slightly and ensure good enough contact between the face and the wood without resorting to knurling. But it does make sense that it will increase pressure at the raised bits with less pressure from the bolts.

What about sharing shipping on Glendale bridges? I know I want, just cannot justify. Sharing shipping would be just such an excuse ?

At the moment I can't justify the bridge, but in a month or two I'll be willing.

I would prefer to have the threaded M5 holes drilled and tapped right through. Blind tapping is a bitch and it necessitates a thicker bar since for full strength you need 2x the thread diameter.

Understood. They can be if necessary, but it's not as good looking as a blind and lets dirt get in/build up. Minor worries though I suppose.

The Gearhead brought enough M5 inserts from Europe to do 5 guitars... Interested?

Absolutely! For at least two guitars. Steel or brass? You have the right bolts too? I found a local supplier, but I have to buy by the box (100pcs). I've seen the guys selling "neck kits" overseas, a thick steel plate like the Glendale with bolts and inserts, but the prices are criminal.

MikeM

http://www.tdpri.com/phpclassifieds/showproduct.php/product/15406/cat/77

http://www.tdpri.com/phpclassifieds/showproduct.php/product/15407/cat/77

? If we need...