I'm gonna do my Maple fretboard with Tru oil. Is this advisable? What is the best way to treat a Maple fretboard with? I'm sitting with the raw wooden fretboard as I'm building this guitar from a kit. I need advice on the best way to do the fretboard and also something that lasts. Should a just put a oil on? Should I put some sort of veneer on? Should I go for lacquer? Is Tru oil okay for the job?
Tru oil?
Tru-oil is a great (if time/labour intensive) finish for guitar necks. The trick is to do lots and lots of very thin layers.
I finished the neck on my tele with tru-oil:
I think I ended up with 15 coats in the end? It's been more than two years and it still great. Very smooth in the hand and fret board still looks fine.
The "technique" I found looking online was to apply the oil with my finger. I'd literally just dip my finger in a bit of tru-oil and start rubbing it onto the neck, starting at the top and moving slowly down, section by section. I'd rub the oil until I can't get it any thinner and then re-dip my finger and continue (when the oil starts to feel warm from friction I would typically move on).
You really want to get it as thin as is humanly possible, to get as even a coat as possible and avoid any runs/teardrops from forming. The only tricky section where the oils wants to pool is on the fretboard next to the frets. I used little squares of drip coffee filters to rub against the squares after I applied the oil to remove the little pools of oil.
You can do probably max two coats per day (morning/evening). In between coats lightly sand with 0000 steel wool to knock down any dust/other high spots that might have settled while the neck cures. After you've applied your last coat you want to give the neck at least two weeks to fully cure. Remember when I said time intensive?
Once it's all cured you polish up per normal. You can go through the normal grits and liquid polishes for a glossy finish or simply hit it up with 0000 steel wool and then some denim for a matt/silky smooth finish. I went gloss and it's held up remarkable well. Glossy is not as smooth under hand as the matt (it's not sticky though as new nitro finishes tend to be), but it does become smoother with use.
Have a google, look particularly on TDPRI, as there are lost of threads online about tru-oil tips and tricks.
So yeah, it's not the easiest/quickest finish to apply, but it has the advantage of just needing your finger, a coffee filter and some time.
Properly applied (taking it slow with lots and lots and lots of layers) it looks damned good though.
I finished the neck on my tele with tru-oil:
I think I ended up with 15 coats in the end? It's been more than two years and it still great. Very smooth in the hand and fret board still looks fine.
The "technique" I found looking online was to apply the oil with my finger. I'd literally just dip my finger in a bit of tru-oil and start rubbing it onto the neck, starting at the top and moving slowly down, section by section. I'd rub the oil until I can't get it any thinner and then re-dip my finger and continue (when the oil starts to feel warm from friction I would typically move on).
You really want to get it as thin as is humanly possible, to get as even a coat as possible and avoid any runs/teardrops from forming. The only tricky section where the oils wants to pool is on the fretboard next to the frets. I used little squares of drip coffee filters to rub against the squares after I applied the oil to remove the little pools of oil.
You can do probably max two coats per day (morning/evening). In between coats lightly sand with 0000 steel wool to knock down any dust/other high spots that might have settled while the neck cures. After you've applied your last coat you want to give the neck at least two weeks to fully cure. Remember when I said time intensive?
Once it's all cured you polish up per normal. You can go through the normal grits and liquid polishes for a glossy finish or simply hit it up with 0000 steel wool and then some denim for a matt/silky smooth finish. I went gloss and it's held up remarkable well. Glossy is not as smooth under hand as the matt (it's not sticky though as new nitro finishes tend to be), but it does become smoother with use.
Have a google, look particularly on TDPRI, as there are lost of threads online about tru-oil tips and tricks.
So yeah, it's not the easiest/quickest finish to apply, but it has the advantage of just needing your finger, a coffee filter and some time.
Properly applied (taking it slow with lots and lots and lots of layers) it looks damned good though.
Rikus,
Stunning! Stunning! Stunning! I will definitely do my Neck and Fretboard this way!!!!! The job look like glass. I'm mad about the outcome of yoer neck and fretboard. I got my answer - thank you and I will definitely follow your steps. Thanks for this!!!
Stunning! Stunning! Stunning! I will definitely do my Neck and Fretboard this way!!!!! The job look like glass. I'm mad about the outcome of yoer neck and fretboard. I got my answer - thank you and I will definitely follow your steps. Thanks for this!!!
That looks great Rikus.
Thanks... Good luck Sarel. Keep us posted! :goodtimes:
I have also done this and it looks great. Patience is the key and the results are excellent!
I firstly decided to do the whole neck with laquer - accept for the fretboard (my fretboard and neck are different kind of woods). Then last night I decided to do the whole neck and fretboard with Tru Oil. So I started off. Will keep you posted as to the outcome. Thanks guys. Rikus - I'm following your method!
Rikus, with what do you suggest I polish the neck and fretboard? I'm also going for the glossy look, but do not want to go the steel wool way. Can you or someone please help. The problem mos always with these overseas websites is that the Americans have stuff that we don't have.
Hi,
Once the oil finish had properly cured I "flatted" the surface with 0000 steel wool. After that I polished it up with professional automotive liquid polishing compounds using a small cordless electric polisher. You should be able to pick up the compounds at your local car spray shop (just make sure it's silicone free, but most professional stuff would be).
Once the oil finish had properly cured I "flatted" the surface with 0000 steel wool. After that I polished it up with professional automotive liquid polishing compounds using a small cordless electric polisher. You should be able to pick up the compounds at your local car spray shop (just make sure it's silicone free, but most professional stuff would be).
8 days later
Just want to report back on my Tru-oil job. Tru oil is fantastic! I am on coat 10 and this look and shine was what I was looking for! Jee whiz, I'm so pleased at this stage. This is going to turn out fantastic! Will never go any other way. Now I see why they say Tru oil is dummy-proof! Glad I decided on this stuff!
Any photos?sarel0 wrote: Just want to report back on my Tru-oil job. Tru oil is fantastic! I am on coat 10 and this look and shine was what I was looking for! Jee whiz, I'm so pleased at this stage. This is going to turn out fantastic! Will never go any other way. Now I see why they say Tru oil is dummy-proof! Glad I decided on this stuff!