If I can build a bass then anyone can. Good luck!

lapdawg wrote:

adr1aan wrote: Morning,

Tork Craft sells a drum sander kit from 1/2" - 2" would this work the same as a robosander? I know it needs the guide at the bottom.

It's different. These have no guide. It could be modded. An overhead pin router type rig would do it. i.e. attach the guide to the table on the drill press and line it up with the sanding drum. ....gives some ideas!

Took me a bit to visualise that idea, but it makes sense.

Thank you

Hi,

What glue should I use? is there different types for different parts?

The Stewmac website has some pretty good build and repair videos, and advice is given there about what glue to use. In the videos he makes pretty regular use of Titebond, which is available locally. It is brought in by Permoseal, and repackaged as Alcolin Professional Wood Glue - the bottle is red and yellow.

I've made a few bodies that came out ok without a robosander.

It sounds like a really good tool; but don't snooker your project because you can't get one bit.

There's always more than one right answer

Wizard wrote: I've made a few bodies that came out ok without a robosander.

It sounds like a really good tool; but don't snooker your project because you can't get one bit.

There's always more than one right answer

Was thinking the same thing, I am a little worried that with all the tool improv the results will suffer. I think I have all the tools required at this point to do a decent job.

I have run into another problem : My plan says 1:1 scale, and thus it is quite big and prints on 15 A4 pages, and when you try to put these together the result is not accurate according to the measurements. :'(

I will have to go to a printing shop to have it printed on a plotter.

I then have a next question: If the scale is 1:1 can I assume to work on the plan or must I still measure?

adr1aan wrote:

I then have a next question: If the scale is 1:1 can I assume to work on the plan or must I still measure?

We all know the answer to this one hahah! You always measure. And when you're done, measure again.

I have found Zip print in Fish Hoek to be one of the only print shops around the Southern Suburbs who are able to print acoustic guitar plans to scale. Not sure if you've managed to locate a print shop near you yet?

Shibbibilybob wrote:

adr1aan wrote:

I then have a next question: If the scale is 1:1 can I assume to work on the plan or must I still measure?

We all know the answer to this one hahah! You always measure. And when you're done, measure again.

I have found Zip print in Fish Hoek to be one of the only print shops around the Southern Suburbs who are able to print acoustic guitar plans to scale. Not sure if you've managed to locate a print shop near you yet?

I am in the process of doing this, will reveal my investigation.

1st quote: R100per page, black and white at a shop in Rivonia ???
2nd quote: R22per page, black and white at a shop in Pretoria ?

Ok, so have my plans printed out, I have converted all the inches to mm and have a few leave days coming up where I will start the build, school is keeping me to busy (I passed grade 2 ?)

Pic's will follow...

Well merry christmas and a happy new year yall!!?

I have started on my neck blank, i choose the scenic route, cut out four neck profiles and glue them together. I left about 1 mm around the edges that must be removed and then I will cut my neck out of the blank.

Stage one of that is done the profiles were cut and glued, and I used alcolin profesional glue, this stuff dries like superglue, now I have a lot of cleaning up to do.







This is hard work if you don't have a dedicated workshop.;D

Your trouble will now be that you do not have a reference face. Any dimensions must bee relative to something and on a neck there is not one straight face... in the end. For now, level the face that will receive the fretboard and take it from there.

I have drawn the neck shape onto the blank. I was wondering if I should cut that out before or after finishing the side profile. It's very rough and a band saw would have been nice to have.

Are you talking about a side profile pattern? to router against? or sand against?

adr1aan wrote: I have drawn the neck shape onto the blank. I was wondering if I should cut that out before or after finishing the side profile. It's very rough and a band saw would have been nice to have.

Are you talking about a side profile pattern? to router against? or sand against?

I'm talking about any profile, just drawing it onto one side will mean you have to remain perfectly square to that side, which can only be done with a perfect saw. My band saw does leave me the need to robosand and even that is better when assisted by some lines on the reverse side... Which you will not be able to put until you square the whole thing up first.
Anyway, having glued already you will need to rout for the truss, which I would do before profiling so you have less trouble clamping.

On another note: what wood is that?

Sticking those pieces together is not easy, I can see a tiny bit of movement there. Thats the exact reason I went the scarf route instead because it is quite tricky.

Gearhead wrote:

adr1aan wrote: I have drawn the neck shape onto the blank. I was wondering if I should cut that out before or after finishing the side profile. It's very rough and a band saw would have been nice to have.

Are you talking about a side profile pattern? to router against? or sand against?

I'm talking about any profile, just drawing it onto one side will mean you have to remain perfectly square to that side, which can only be done with a perfect saw. My band saw does leave me the need to robosand and even that is better when assisted by some lines on the reverse side... Which you will not be able to put until you square the whole thing up first.
Anyway, having glued already you will need to rout for the truss, which I would do before profiling so you have less trouble clamping.

On another note: what wood is that?

Plain old pine, this is a first attempt and waisting expensive wood would be a shame.

I thought it was pine which is why I asked. I have never seen anyone pull off a pine neck (pun intended). Even if you had used a more sturdy piece of wood for your neck, it would still not have been stiff and controllable enough without a truss rod. You might have looked at the direction of the grain a bit while cutting, so as to keep the neck from warping. In my humble opinion, instead of maybe wasting expensive wood you are certainly wasting less expensive wood. It might be better to read through a few build threads on this forum or even very many threads on tdpri.com or lespaulforum.

G-Man wrote: Sticking those pieces together is not easy, I can see a tiny bit of movement there. Thats the exact reason I went the scarf route instead because it is quite tricky.

Something I seem to be thinking frequently these days: Life would be so much cooler with an electric planer. even just 6" wide would be lovely thanks.

Shibbibilybob wrote:

G-Man wrote: Sticking those pieces together is not easy, I can see a tiny bit of movement there. Thats the exact reason I went the scarf route instead because it is quite tricky.

Something I seem to be thinking frequently these days: Life would be so much cooler with an electric planer. even just 6" wide would be lovely thanks.

amen