
I'm busy sourcing the hardware, and I'm planning on CNC routing an Oregon Pine body from some reclaimed beams. Looking at something like an Azola Jazzman:

I had a Cort Curbow 5 fretted with an Ebonol board and it was fantastic- flat, strong, stable. Because it is a composite, it does have a subtle 'grain' that comes out a little with wear. I'm pretty happy with it as a fingerboard material.V8 wrote: ..Did some reading on ebonol fretboards and concluded a mighty mite neck w/ebonol as a home build would be the way forward...
Might be. I'll have to see once I start buying timber. If needs be, I'm hoping I can route some weight relief.V8 wrote: The oregon pine is going to result in a weighty beast though? I had a tele (body from reclaimed roof timber), it was seriously heavy.
I think for bass players this started with Alembic's work in the 60s. A lot of influential players used them, then other luthiers like Ken Smith, Spector, Fodera and eventually Ibanez started copying that look.Wizard wrote: Who else has spotted the trend that guitars attract paint to cover up the wood, but bass players are often more inclined to show off the beauty?
It's mostly to answer this question that I'm giving it a try.Meron Rigas wrote: Excuse the noob questions - I'm curious!
So when choosing pup placement, what are you looking for?
Is it mostly pup placement (regardless of pup type) - E.g. closer to bridge = more finger attack (I'm thinking rickenbacker/rock), more in the middle = P-bass mids and more to the neck = jazz-y warmth?
Or is it more dependent on pup type, E.g. depending on the type of pup, you'll adjust to balance out the inherent tone of the pup with the placement. E.g. Humbucker more to the bridge to add a bit of treble to the warmth of the bucker?
Aha, makes for a interesting experiment!peterleroux wrote: It's mostly to answer this question that I'm giving it a try.
Apparently the position and construction both have a lot to do with tone- some people say that a MM pup in the P-bass position sounds more like a precision than a Stingray. I'm going to move it around and see. One of the things is that an active circuit can compensate for the loss of warmth you get when moving closer to the bridge- apparently the Stingray circuit was tweaked with the position of the pickup in mind, to compensate for the shortcomings of the tone.
ah, sorry. I meant the big double humbucker MusicMan like the Stingray and Saber have-Meron Rigas wrote:Aha, makes for a interesting experiment!peterleroux wrote: It's mostly to answer this question that I'm giving it a try.
Apparently the position and construction both have a lot to do with tone- some people say that a MM pup in the P-bass position sounds more like a precision than a Stingray. I'm going to move it around and see. One of the things is that an active circuit can compensate for the loss of warmth you get when moving closer to the bridge- apparently the Stingray circuit was tweaked with the position of the pickup in mind, to compensate for the shortcomings of the tone.
You said "MM" pup, that's a mighty mite pup? It also crossed my mind that the active circuit could mask some of the tonal changes one would get from moving the pup around.
Keep us updated please - quite curious! I've got a old Hofner (missing the original pup) that I need to drop another pup into (Probably a P Bass passive, if I can find a reasonable one).
good point.Wizard wrote: Insight: pickup position is one of the very few things that can't be tweaked with a screwdriver or allen key after the build is finished
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So I sent drawings off this afternoon to a laser cutting fabricator to do this..
The solid timber thing hasn't worked out over the last few years, so I'm going to try a danelectro-style supawood and spraypaint body, possibly with an f-hole- will see how I like the look once I get all the parts back. More news soon, hopefully...
Looking good..
am I'm reading correctly? you are going Supawood?
why lasercut, and not CNC routed?
Tuckstir yes, humble MDF. And I’m going with laser cutting because this guy has been responsive and has good pricing- i approached a few guys over the last 3 years about CNC milling but for various reasons they never came back with anything.
Luckily Fender designs are so modular that it will be easy to replace the body if this one doesn’t work out
Haha ok.. was wondering why you wanted to smoke out a factory..
?
next time give me a shout
we Have A CNC router which we mostly use to cut Polycarb Windows
Fender designs been a bolt on.. as long as you keep the brigde position relative to the neck pocket.. you could make any design..
MMMMM fretlest Flaming flying V with F-holes. ?