funkadelic
Hi I need some help please.
I have designed a really cool pedalboard but the final build was a disaster. I'm getting noise, buzz, Velcro comes loose, etc. I have determined that I do not have a proper power supply. I'm using a no-name brand universal power brick (10x9v/100mA outputs). Also previously I have used a rather large Rockcase but I prefer an angled pedalboard.
So I was wondering:
(1) A proper power supply like a T Rex Junior costs R1300! About the same price as a Gator powered pedalboards. I'm sure I should be able to source it locally? What is best? How are these Gator powered boards? Going for the powered brick won't solve my problem that I still need a pedalboard coz the one I build is s^%!
(2) Are there any custom pedalboard builders in Cape Town? That way I can have a noise free angled pedalboard with a case or bag?
(3) I'm simplifying my effects and want to use and something like a Boss ME-70 for modulation and time-based effects (run it in the amp's loop). Anyone doing this? I will make use of a few drive pedals + amp's drive channel. So the final board will be a hybrid between analog drive pedals and digital post-preamp effects.
It's quite a mouthful but hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. I'm terribly frustrated at this moment...
rikus
Two pieces of advice from my side:
1 - Don't skimp on the power supply. Not only will an isolated power supply help with the noise issue, but it may end up saving your pedals. In the event of some sort of power spike / dodgy power at a venue the cheap power brick / wall wart plug will blow and potentially take other pedals with it. A solid power supply goes a long way to protect the rest of the pedals down the line. Do the maths... how many R's worth of pedals hinges on your R200 power supply?
2 - On the pedal board, instead of starting from scratch I used a premade shelf from the DIY shelving solution that Builder's Warehouse sells called Mak - Rak.
http://www.makrak.co.za/
I don't have any recent pics, but this should give you an idea. I bought the shelf and the rear tilt piece separately. I simply spray painted it black and stuck the velcro on.
You can use that to make it as simple or complicated as you want.
el-guapo
+1 to everything Rikus says (I mean that in general, not just this post ?)
Re Velcro: as far as I can tell, the biggest problem comes from pedal heat melting the adhesive (I can't tell if this is the problem you're having). A slatted surface like Rikus suggests seems to allow a lot of the heat to dissipate and limits this.
My current board has drive in front of the amp (plus channel switching) and then all mods and delays (analog chorus, Line 6 M5, DD3, Strymon ElCap) in the loop. I've been very happy with the results.
funkadelic
Hi Rikus your board looks cool! That's more or less what I had in mind but my technical skills are a bit limited (not as nice as yours but similar). I especially like the power "socket" at the back. Nice plug and play design. And your point on not skimping on the power supply is well taken ?.
Just a few more questions. How do you carry it around? Do you have a bag or case or something? Besides the handles I mean. Are there any real difference between the proper power supplies such as Voodoo Lab or T Rex or Dunlop Bricks?
rikus
el guapo wrote:
+1 to everything Rikus says (I mean that in general, not just this post ?)
haha! Caveat lector!! ?
funkadelic wrote:
Just a few more questions. How do you carry it around? Do you have a bag or case or something? Besides the handles I mean. Are there any real difference between the proper power supplies such as Voodoo Lab or T Rex or Dunlop Bricks?
No bag, just by the handle. I've been meaning to get a bag (it's the only thing that won't add a ton of weight/bulk), but I just haven't gotten round to it yet. Everything is velcro'd and cable tied, so nothing flops about. I just pick it up by the one handle carry it by my side. Obviously I'm no super gigging player, so it's not a big mission for me when I go to band practice etc...
The difference between cheaper and more expensive power supplies comes down mostly to isolation. Each output is isolated and regulated independently, i.e. the 9v 400ma socket outputs a stable 9v and can handle a continuous 400ma draw. Very important for the more power hungry effects.
Danny-B
Some of the T-Rex supplies don't have isolated taps, so if you do go the route of a better power supply (which I strongly suggest you do) be sure you get one with isolated and regulated taps, like the Voodoo Labs PP2 or similar. A good PS will lower noise, be more reliable and will not damage your pedals (which a cheap solution may do).
funkadelic
Update: Deciding between a T Rex Fuel Tank Chameleon or Jr and Proel PSU110. The T Rex PSU's have 5 isolated outputs. Will have to daisy chain some effects. The Proel have 10 outputs, 8 of which are 9v. They say its isolated.
I plan to power 8 pedals, max 9. The prices are more or less similar. In the R1500 region. I'm leaning towards the Chameleon. Bit sceptic of the Proel PSU. Should I be? I will have the cash soon. Just need to make a decision.
Big-G
Personally, i generally avoid anything that says Proel or Behringer on it, so I'd go with the T-Rex. A well respected brand with decent products.
Regards
G!
rikus
funkadelic wrote:
Update: Deciding between a T Rex Fuel Tank Chameleon or Jr and Proel PSU110. The T Rex PSU's have 5 isolated outputs. Will have to daisy chain some effects. The Proel have 10 outputs, 8 of which are 9v. They say its isolated.
I plan to power 8 pedals, max 9. The prices are more or less similar. In the R1500 region. I'm leaning towards the Chameleon. Bit sceptic of the Proel PSU. Should I be? I will have the cash soon. Just need to make a decision.
I'd go with the T Rex. Do they say the max mA draw per output?
No problem running multiple pedals per output provided that the current draw remains within the limitation of the channel. I for example run a Y- style splitter cable on one of the 100mA channels for my 9v drive pedals, because they've got a low current draw. You're able to find the current draw of most pedals with a quick google. If you add them together and it's below the channel mA you're good to go!
Danny-B
Digital pedals have to be on an isolated tap. If you chain digital pedals with other pedals on tap you run the risk of getting a lot of noise. The Chameleon is a good PS, as far as I remember you get 300ma on each tap with different voltage options too. Definitely better than the Proel. Do yourself a favour: draw up a word document with all your pedals, their mA draw, what voltage they need and whether they need to be on an isolated tap (eg digital pedals). Then see whether the chameleon will suit your needs.
AlanRatcliffe
T-Rex does good supplies, but the Chameleon is a bit short on outputs and many bigger digital pedals need more than 300mA (the Nova pedals are good examples). I'd prefer a classic Fueltank (or ideally a CIOKS).
I've never looked at the Proel supplies, but Proel aren't a bad company (I have a few bits of Proel PA and they are surprisingly good). However, from the specs I'd say the PSU has only five isolated taps (4 x 9V, 4 x 9V, 1 x 12V, 1 x 12V) and, while it has 2A on tap, how much is available per tap is not listed.
funkadelic
Hi Alan: the Fuel Tank Classic was my first option until I read that it doesn't have isolated outputs. I may be mistaken? From what I read up its best to have isolated outputs? I have also read about the CIOKS. Will call some music stores. I don't mind pushing my budget up to about R2000 if I can find something like the Classic but with isolated outputs.
funkadelic
Oops sorry I only saw the other replies after responding. But I have decided to go for a power supply with all isolated outputs. Thought I could get away with the Chameleon and daisy chain the drive pedals. I will definitely have to call some more music shops. Honestly when I designed the (now somplified) pedalboard I had no idea how important a power supply is.
Ibanezguy
I've been an electronics tech forever, if I can help give me a shout. Typically power supplies cause shit when they are running out of available amperage and start rippling causing hum etc. If I recall the old Boss RV2 digital reverb drew about 800mA and the DD2 about 500mA. Overdrives draw the least as they are analogue pedals. Depending on wiring, earth loops cause problems as well. A simple mod on signal cables lifting the ground with a 10 ohm resistor can help sort out a lot of problems as well. I would have thought the idiots that designed pedals would think about these things and that us guitarists would NEVER only have one pedal hahaha. I used to built my mates custom 5A fan cooled power supplies, huge overkill but I believe very highly in overkill. A good power supply should be well filtered and have a choke on the voltage output. It should be dead flat on an oscilloscope with full load connected. Luckily you can now get high quality switch mode power supplies which are high current and weigh next to nothing.
All the manufacturers of isolated output power supplies do is to either have a voltage regulator for each output (simple to do) or they just take the one voltage (typically 10vdc for a 9v supply) and tap off the required amount of outputs each through a diode (each one giving a drop of .7v) a you have a 9.3 vdc supply x the amount of outputs required. The latter is crude but works lol
funkadelic
Ok I'm increasing my budget for the power supply. Want to buy once and futureproof my board as well. It's down to one of three now:
1) Cioks DC 8 or 10 (still no idea of price or supplier)
2) Voodoo Lab PP2+ (same as 1 above)
3) BBE Supa Charger (R2200; local music shop)
So if you guys have any leads where I can get the Cioks or Voodoo Lab at a good price let me know. Thanks.
rikus
I can also vouch for them. That's where I got my DC10.
Norman86
Yep... Cioks ftw ?
Got my dc8 from guitareffectsoedals.com too!
Jayhell
I'm also in the market for a power supply, I was astonished at the prices though! But I think the Fuel tank Jr. is perfect for my needs. Any opinions on it?
funkadelic
Thanks for the link guys. Anyone from Cape Town buying Cioks power supplies? Thinking of buying the Cioks DC 10 but want to save on shipping costs seeing that I'm pushing my budget. However I don't fully get when they say 10 outputs configured as 8 isolated outputs.
