Here's a quick update. I've been working on a few things.
I found 3/16" stainless rods for the truss as per the original spec. The ends are threaded at 10-32NF & the one end is tapped into a stop lug. The end of the rod is hammered and "mushroomed" to to make sure that is holds against tightening.
A hole is drilled near the shoulder & the rod is fitted.
A hard maple filler strip is hide glued in over the truss and clamped.
I am going take one fingerboard through to completion before I do the rest. I have made a template to taper the sides. I attached the board to the template with double sided tape & fed it through the router. A nice spicy / fragrant powder poured off - in right of picture. It worked perfectly & has given me what I'm looking for.
I've been given some old Madagascan rosewood for fingerboards. I am weary of using this and would not want to buy it. I have cut a board out of it and done a compare to the Indian. I have read the this is as good as Brazilian Rosewood, some say better. I now understand what the fuss is about & how it can give much improved sustain. I cut 2 equal size boards & tapped each with a spanner. The Indian is bright, the Madagascan is much, much brighter. The first gives a"clack" the latter avery crisp "click". I don't think I'll use it, certainly not on these builds. Very alluring though...
I was looking at paying more than $16 +shipping for Holly veneers for the headstock. Once dry holly is very stable, needs no grain filling is hard enough to withstand sanding etc. that goes with the logo inlay. I was pleased to find that we have Cape Holly growing locally. It is a close relative of the common US Hollies & has very similar properties. I bought an offcut, sliced it in the bandsaw and thicknessed it to 1.2mm - I have way more veneers than I need for R10.
I have also routed the rebates for the rear cover plates:
I think I am now passed half way with the "wood working" phase.
