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I'd go along the lines of that PG build. A series of small but really annoying mistakes I made could have been avoided if I'd read that first!

eg: If you decide to make the top slatted instead of one board with holes, make sure the slats are far enough apart to get the plugs of your patch-cables through...
    Psean wrote: I basically did a smaller, simpler version of the on in the PG link. Used some scrap ply. I'll post pics if you like. I made mine angled so my PSU fits underneath. I like the angle. As well as makeing the back row easier to reach, it also just makes the front ones more comfortable to stomp.
    Yes please, would love to see a pic! and im sure so would everyone else ?
      Ok So Lightweight is one of my main priorities. What materials = sturdy and light (and not too much $)
        Aluminium - if you have the tools to work it. Otherwise marine ply and more of a frame construction.

        Either way, pedals tend to make up the bulk of the weight of a board.
          Hey Alan,
          So im looking at getting a power supply as well.. Would you recommend that one you used on your board in your linked thread?
          Cheap and light and does the job kind of thing...
            I did one similar to Alan's one with a few planks instead of one board with slots in it. Still using it and I really like it. I used Pine wood. Looking back, I think plywood might have been better, but I think was more expensive at the time. And my board isn't heavy itself. I made a hard lid for it which makes it really heavy when adding in the pedals that I have on the board. Probably better to carry it in a soft case. This reminds me that I think I need to update my board in the Your Pedalboard thread. Hope that helps a bit. I think my biggest mistake was the lid. The actual board is great though.
              el guapo wrote: I'd go along the lines of that PG build. A series of small but really annoying mistakes I made could have been avoided if I'd read that first!
              +1
              DrGonzo wrote:
              Psean wrote: I basically did a smaller, simpler version of the on in the PG link. Used some scrap ply. I'll post pics if you like. I made mine angled so my PSU fits underneath. I like the angle. As well as makeing the back row easier to reach, it also just makes the front ones more comfortable to stomp.
              Yes please, would love to see a pic! and im sure so would everyone else ?
              Here you go. Cell phone pics...


              Not the greatest woodwork ever, but it does the job.






              EDIT: Don't you flippin' hate daisy chains?

              One of the things I would do if I did it again (besides measuring the centre brace properly >☹ ) would be to make the velcro extend closer to the horizontal edges of the board.
                DDR4LYF wrote: I did one similar to Alan's one with a few planks instead of one board with slots in it. Still using it and I really like it. I used Pine wood. Looking back, I think plywood might have been better, but I think was more expensive at the time. And my board isn't heavy itself. I made a hard lid for it which makes it really heavy when adding in the pedals that I have on the board. Probably better to carry it in a soft case. This reminds me that I think I need to update my board in the Your Pedalboard thread. Hope that helps a bit. I think my biggest mistake was the lid. The actual board is great though.
                And I pretty much copied this one, except I used one sheet of ply with slots in it... Mine is smaller too.
                  Nice stuff Mr P. Sean!

                  Did you treat the wood at all?

                    Mattocaster wrote: Nice stuff Mr P. Sean!

                    Did you treat the wood at all?

                    Well... it was salvaged from part of a box to hold stuff inside a trailer that the rain then leaked into. So it was water treated ? I cleaned off the mould, sanded it then used a water-bases stain and on of the Woodoc sealers. Can't remember the name off hand. I think I used Woodoc penetrating wax on top of the sealer. They work well together
                      Here's mine. I've been using this one for roughly ten years now and it's been all over SA and neighbouring countries.

                      It's never missed a beat.

                      Inside the "step" I've fitted a Hughes and Kettner Red Box to enable me to DI to the PA.

                      I'm busy putting another board together for the studio. I don't need to "stand" on the pedals so I had a trolley built for me so that I can have the board next to me to make changes etc.

                      Cheers,

                      Peter.





                        Very Nice guys!
                        PJH im also thinking of doing a 2 layer one, rather than an angled one.

                        Although that makes it more difficult to hide cables and stash a power supply. How did you get around that?

                        Dave
                          DrGonzo wrote: Very Nice guys!
                          PJH im also thinking of doing a 2 layer one, rather than an angled one.

                          Although that makes it more difficult to hide cables and stash a power supply. How did you get around that?

                          Dave
                          I built the board so that the step is hollow inside. That gives you a massive space to mount a nice big power supply in it.

                          I find that the "stepped" board is a lot easier to use than the angled type.

                          I also put an led lighting strip on the front of the step so that you can still see whats going on when it's dark on stage. This board is a design that has taken time to "evolve" over time and has worked for many years for me.

                          The "switcher" on the bottom left of the board is used to switch between the amp or my talkbox. I have three outputs on it. One goes to my amp, the next one to the talkbox and then there is the balanced out (XLR) from the Redbox (which is inside the board) and that goes to the desk.

                          The input jack is designed to switch off the transmitter (when I can't or decide not to use that radio. As soon as the cable is unplugged the board is setup for the radio.

                          I had a flightcase built for the board as well. It's seen many, many flights and buses, trailers etc and is still going strong.

                          Cheers,

                          Peter.
                            a month later
                            PJH wrote:
                            DrGonzo wrote: Very Nice guys!
                            PJH im also thinking of doing a 2 layer one, rather than an angled one.

                            Although that makes it more difficult to hide cables and stash a power supply. How did you get around that?

                            Dave
                            I built the board so that the step is hollow inside. That gives you a massive space to mount a nice big power supply in it.

                            I find that the "stepped" board is a lot easier to use than the angled type.

                            I also put an led lighting strip on the front of the step so that you can still see whats going on when it's dark on stage. This board is a design that has taken time to "evolve" over time and has worked for many years for me.

                            The "switcher" on the bottom left of the board is used to switch between the amp or my talkbox. I have three outputs on it. One goes to my amp, the next one to the talkbox and then there is the balanced out (XLR) from the Redbox (which is inside the board) and that goes to the desk.

                            The input jack is designed to switch off the transmitter (when I can't or decide not to use that radio. As soon as the cable is unplugged the board is setup for the radio.

                            I had a flightcase built for the board as well. It's seen many, many flights and buses, trailers etc and is still going strong.

                            Cheers,

                            Peter.
                            Wow.. That is a nice board. You'd be the perfect person to ask then, seeing as you've had the same board for +10 years, if you had the opportunity to remake a new board, what would you do different, or what would you add etc
                              Can you guys give me an indication of the dimensions to cut a hole in the wood for standard kettle chord input and neutrik 1/4 jack input ?

                              I wanna have the whole thing as a pllug and play unit where i plug my cables into the pedal board and have send and return jacks in the pedal board routed to the appropriate pedals as well?
                                The Neutriks need a 24mm circular hole (full set of technical drawings, cutouts and 3D files on their site).

                                IEC (kettle) sockets will depend on the make, but usually about 25 x 20mm (guestimate - check it before you go drilling). The type with built in surge protection are bigger - once again, check the specific manufacturer's site (or somewhere like RS Electronics).
                                  I am too shy and ashamed to post my plank. It is serviceable though and I do look like someone dodging a puff adder in De Aar when stepping on the pedals.

                                  Sounds are cool though