Rikus wrote
You wouldn't perhaps have a handy little diagram for drilling them there holes or did you just wing it?
I took a direct photocopy of the PCB itself to get the hole locations for the top.
Cut out the paper; glued it on with Pritt and drilled where the PCB said the parts were supposed to be.
Wasn't perfectly accurate; but wood is forgiving.
The sides were more guesswork.
Measured as best as I could then drilled an undersized hole ... then peeped in and saw where the hole should be ... and drilled the proper sized hole more accurately.
Thanks for the compliments!
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The box was a new experiment.
I took a solid block of wood, hollowed it out (forstner bits, router); then cut off the sides to create the box.
It's actually much easier than you think!!
But you do need access to at least a drill press and forstner bits.
I would like to point out that Matt has made the build
very easy.
The pcb is clearly marked; and his instructions are very clear.
I got foxed on a few little issues:
- I couldn't figure out what these 3 resistors were that my multimeter was telling me had no resistance! Eventually figured out that they are used for "links"
- The diagram didn't show which way the diode was supposed to be connected. A close examination of Matt's photograph's revealed the telltale stripe on one end.
- The holes for the switch were slightly too small. A 2mm drill bit sorted that out.
- Discovered that thin solder is
far better to use than thick solder. Early solder joints ended up with too much solder. My soldering skills were very rusty.
The wooden box isn't metal (obviously) and therefore doesn't offer shielding.
There is therefore a bit of hum.
If it bothers me I may line the box with copper tape in the same way as shielding a guitar body.
And ... I just love the way it sounds.
P.S. Camera angle hides the flaws. And there
are flaws
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