Cab for Peavey Classic 30 12" Build (now 2x12" build)

nick · 2010-11-22T11:28:46+00:00

So since the Greenback is serving time inside my Classic 30 I want to build a cab for the Blue Marvel. 1.) What do I build it out of? I have a ton of super...

Cab for Peavey Classic 30 12" Build (now 2x12" build)

nick

The Greenback arrived today and I have already collected it and installed it into the cab ? Just need to wire it up and then it'll be ready for practice tonight 8)

nick

? Ignore the shoddy looking wiring, that was a temporary solution so I could use it at practice.

mattyd

And????
How'd it sound? ?

nick

mattyd wrote: And????
How'd it sound? ?

Dirty! Like a Catholic school girl ?

nick

Really small boring update.. sprayed another coat of black on the inside and glued/screwed in the rear board mounts. Im considering making it a closed back cab, will get a piece of ply cut to size and test it with both and see which I prefer.

nick

Another small update, covered and fitted the one rear panel

Gearhead

Methinks u should use thicker wire ?

makepeace

how thick is adequate GH?

Reinhard

Looks cool man, just need to get some corners

Gearhead

On a 50W guitar rig not doing much lower than 80Hz I'd take 2.5mm2 but maybe that's just me. The short distances in a cab do not warrant thick stuff like 4 or 10.
Note that you want to also use the same sorta gauge between head and cab. No need for coaxial like guitar lead, just the oxygen free dual stuff like you get in car stereo shops.

nick

Gearhead wrote: On a 50W guitar rig not doing much lower than 80Hz I'd take 2.5mm2 but maybe that's just me. The short distances in a cab do not warrant thick stuff like 4 or 10.
Note that you want to also use the same sorta gauge between head and cab. No need for coaxial like guitar lead, just the oxygen free dual stuff like you get in car stereo shops.

The red/yellow wire is 16 guage stuff

nick

So I needed a jack plate, Ive been to the hardware store and was using a plastic cover for a electric box which Id sprayed black but it didnt look good. Was busy finishing the last rear panel and I noticed an old castor wheel I had in my garage ? Drilled the rivet thingy out and it seems to work, alot better than the plastic cover that is..

Must still align and screw it in, going to sort out the wiring properly first

The last rear panel is covered too, Im tired of contact glue, I never want to see or smell the stuff for a long time ☹

Gearhead

The red/yellow wire is 16 guage stuff

16 gauge is American silly measurements for 1mm2. It is two steps thinner than 2.5.

nick

Almost done, just got to solder up the jack but I will get thicker wire as per Gearheads post and then find corners

nick

Gearhead wrote:
The red/yellow wire is 16 guage stuff
16 gauge is American silly measurements for 1mm2. It is two steps thinner than 2.5.

I used this:

Internal Wire
If your speakers will see 500 watts or less, use 18 or 16 gauge (AWG) wire.

If your speakers will see 500 watts or above, use 16, 14 or 12 gauge (AWG) wire.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/2x12wiring.html

When I bought.

Tonedef

Looking sharp man! The debbul is always in the finishing details. Howz that greenback treating you?

nick

Tonedef wrote: Looking sharp man! The debbul is always in the finishing details. Howz that greenback treating you?

So far so good, got a slight buzz on the low E's but its only audible at room volumes ? Thanks again 8)

nick

I found corners! Not shiny Fender chrome ones but corners none-the-less. Now any idea what they use to affix them? Most look like some dome headed stud of sorts but I just want something flat non-shiny, like a nail but less crude.

Norman86

And just when i wanted to say pop rivets...

otherwise... you could screw them in i suppose?!

nick

Fitted them, they dont fit perfectly but will do for now