Changing a switch on an ES-335 //edit// and the pots and and and

[deleted] · 2010-06-17T10:55:17+00:00

Quick question changing the 3 way switch on an ES-335? could you do it at home? difficult? do they use the L shaped 3 way switch? and who supplies the best 3 way switches for an ES?

AlanRatcliffe

Now you know why I recommend you do everything at once! Console yourself with the thought that you'll not need to do it again for a decade or more. ?

After changing the pickups, pots & jack on my electric 12 (which was a nightmare even as archtops go - the F-holes are to small to get CTS pots through intact) I swore I wouldn't go through it all again. So when I fitted the next set of pickups I took a router to the back and made a control cavity cover (only works with a flat back guitar though).

[deleted]

Alan Ratcliffe wrote Now you know why I recommend you do everything at once! Console yourself with the thought that you'll not need to do it again for a decade or more. ?

Thats the first thing I said when it was finished and all is working, I am so glad its over. It really is a tough job.

The only problem is now I have two of my amber top hat knobs falling off, going to see if I can get decent ones here somewhere to replace them. (As a last resort I will bend the split shaft open a bit maybe that will make the fit a bit tighter, that was still very disappointing.

Alan Ratcliffe wrote After changing the pickups, pots & jack on my electric 12 (which was a nightmare even as archtops go - the F-holes are to small to get CTS pots through intact) I swore I wouldn't go through it all again. So when I fitted the next set of pickups I took a router to the back and made a control cavity cover (only works with a flat back guitar though).

I actually saw on a forum fellow did that to an ES-335 copy, he just cut open the back and made a backplate to fit over it... no hassles for him.. ?

singemonkey

Brentcgp wrote
Alan Ratcliffe wrote After changing the pickups, pots & jack on my electric 12 (which was a nightmare even as archtops go - the F-holes are to small to get CTS pots through intact) I swore I wouldn't go through it all again. So when I fitted the next set of pickups I took a router to the back and made a control cavity cover (only works with a flat back guitar though).
I actually saw on a forum fellow did that to an ES-335 copy, he just cut open the back and made a backplate to fit over it... no hassles for him.. ?

Where's the fun in that? ?

Well done. Sounds like a pretty nightmarish thing to do. If I ever end up with a 335 style, I'm luckily incompetent enough with electrics that I'd take it straight to someone to do for me. Either that or only buy one with CTS Pots and great caps ?

AlanRatcliffe

Brentcgp wrote The only problem is now I have two of my amber top hat knobs falling off, going to see if I can get decent ones here somewhere to replace them. (As a last resort I will bend the split shaft open a bit maybe that will make the fit a bit tighter, that was still very disappointing.

That's not unusual - it's common to have to splay the split a little to compensate for worn knobs. The CTS are the larger metric size shafts, so it's not a problem with them.

I actually saw on a forum fellow did that to an ES-335 copy, he just cut open the back and made a backplate to fit over it... no hassles for him.. ?

I've seen it too, but you can't recess the plate flush with the surface. ?

[deleted]

singemonkey wrote Well done. Sounds like a pretty nightmarish thing to do. If I ever end up with a 335 style, I'm luckily incompetent enough with electrics that I'd take it straight to someone to do for me. Either that or only buy one with CTS Pots and great caps ?

Well it still had the original Gibson pots inside (which where a bit scratchy and noisy), I upgraded it to CTS pots and SuperPots form RS and changed the caps to 'the best' vintage spec Luxe Bumblebees...
I also want to put 11s on (had 10s), so I am going to take it in for a proper clean and neck adjustment for the thicker strings...

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