Guitar not staying in tune

Ray · 2010-01-24T19:41:16+00:00

DOnt know if this has been discussed here before. Maybe becasue I seem to remember some discussion on it. Anyway, I have an electric guitar which I quite enj...

Guitar not staying in tune

PeteM

Gareth wrote: remember to tune UP to the the note to avoid string slack behind the nut.

Good advice - tuning from the top down is usually the biggest culprit for strings going out of tune all the time.

Bob-Dubery

Gareth wrote: For nut sauce, tuning gears etc, I use graphite dust, can be a little tricky to find, try a locksmith, failing which a very soft pencil, also remember to tune UP to the the note to avoid string slack behind the nut.

Yeah I always do that. If the string is sharp I actually go flat and then bring it back up to concert pitch.

What I can't make any sense of is all the different theories about how to wind your strings on to avoid slippage.

Some advocate multiple winds, with the windings progressively going DOWN the shaft of the tuner. Others say one wind only. Another piece of advice I read was "The string should be wound around the tuning peg at least three times before being slotted through the hole."

Go figure. These can't ALL be right.

AlanRatcliffe

Many of the better hardwares and locksmiths have the graphite powder. Just-a-Puff is one brand that springs to mind. Otherwise a 2B pencil works fine and is easy to apply. However, most of the better nut materials (unbleached bone, Tusq, Black Tusq, Corian, Micarta) are all self lubricating, so it's best just to make sure the nut is cut right in the first place.

The SAS32FM is closest to a modern Strat Trem bridge from what I have seen. You won't find saddles for that, but it's not a problematic design anyway.

I like the locking tuners as they let you get the fewest number of string winds (usually only about half a wind) on the capstan, so there's one less thing to go wrong, especially if you use a trem.

Tuning up (or down in the case of some locking tuners) makes a difference if the tuners are worn or if the nut is binding. A good set of tuners and well cut nut it actually makes little difference IME.

PeteM

Alan Ratcliffe wrote: Tuning up (or down in the case of some locking tuners) makes a difference if the tuners are worn or if the nut is binding. A good set of tuners and well cut nut it actually makes little difference IME.

Agreed, but how many guitars are fitted so? I tune up as a matter of habit, just in case.

AlanRatcliffe

PeteM wrote: Agreed, but how many guitars are fitted so? I tune up as a matter of habit, just in case.

All mine are. ? Good point though.

Gareth

Hey Bob, re string turns ... I play bass and normally have a coupla turns on it, with a nylon string you do need more turns than on a steel/electric as they don't kink and are slippery things, I always wind toward the post, as then there's less leverage on the post itself.
On a bass it's easy (on mine anyway) to keep the headstock tidy by dropping the string end in the hole in the post, some strats etc. also have this, normally if they're slotted posts (this was quite a discovery for me ? ), on other guitars I always snip the exes as I really hate seeing a guitar with strings waving off the end.

Ray

Alan Ratcliffe wrote: If the strings are fitted correctly and aren't too old, look at the nut first. Try tighten the screws on the tuning machine keys too - that tightens the action and makes them hold better (even if they have worn). If the tuning machines do need replacement, both Gotoh and Schaller are good. I usually import.

Saddles are rarely the problem. What kind of bridge does this Ibby have? In fact, what model is it?

I've been looking at these tuners in the Stemac catalog and went and took a look at the stewmac site as well, you know setting the currency to SA rand and didnt look too bad. Then took a look at Take2 and hell, it's expensive there. Anyway going to try all the other suggestions specific for the nut first. I think it may be the nut thing as I upped the string gauge. The old strings were .9's and just the slightest movement sounds like you giving the whammy bar a moerse yank. I popped a block off wood behind the piece of metal in the body of the guitar to stop the bridge lifting up in the sky with the heavier strings. Dont use the whammy bar anyway. Back to subject I guess I'll just have to mosey on over to the guitar fella again.

Thanks for the inputs.

Squonk

Hell Ray, Those are extra light strings. I think you should get at the very least .10's
I have never tried 9's , I am too scared they will snap ?

Bob-Dubery

Ray wrote: I think it may be the nut thing as I upped the string gauge. The old strings were .9's and just the slightest movement sounds like you giving the whammy bar a moerse yank. I popped a block off wood behind the piece of metal in the body of the guitar to stop the bridge lifting up in the sky with the heavier strings.

If the guitar was set up for 9s and you've gone heavier then the nut slots may be too tight for the strings you are currently using - which would cause tuning problems.

Ray

Ja, went to .13 but then down to 12 and now 11. that is why I had to use the block of wood. Just have to go and get the nut seen to - while I'm at it just get replaced for a bone one as well.

Greenwitch

Hi Ray

I also own the sas32fm model And had the same issues as you have. The main problem it seems is the SAT Pro Bridge that is installed on the instrument. I've read a few complaints about the bridge not keeping the tuning. >☹

What I Used to do was to fix the bridge by tightening the springs in the back. If you prefer to keep it a floating bridge, use the whammy as light as possible because it will go out of tune.

Except for the tuning problem, I'm still in love with my guit and its got great tone for the buck. ?

Like to see what others have to say as well.

Ray

Thanks G. See, the floating bridge thing doesnt seem to like having heavy strings on and I wabnt heavy strings so a couple weeks back I asked the forum about the feasibility of getting a fixed hardtail installed and the okes said it isnt really worth it which is pretty much what I suspected but still I dont use the whammy and this floating thing just seems to be unstable in my uneducated opinion. So, I am just slapping a block of wood in the back between body wood and the bit that sticks down in the body. Seems to work. Just a bit of a sweat when you restring. But I do liek the guitar. Bought it from someone on this forum about a year ago when I started getting interested. Cheers

Greenwitch

I hear you.

At one stage I had a few 5cent pieces as a quick fix. Unluckily I can't help with the problem. Mine is quite stable, I just fine tune it a bit before playing, but I play with tens and a is setup for whammy. It just seems to be a prob with that bridge. I'll have a look around if there is any proper mod to fix the prob.

Greenwitch

A quick question Ray

Is there any audible difference between the singlecoil and humbucker setting on your Ibanez. No matter what pickup I put the selector switch on I just can't hear the difference between single with the volume knob pulled out agains the humbuckers with the volume knob pushed in. Is it suppose to be like that or did a new employee at Ibanez work on mine or is it inferior parts.

This has been messing with my head for quite some time now.

Ray

Ya I like the guitar but havent used that for a while. Havent made a study but when in the neck pos or center pos, it splits the neck HB I guess making it a single coil in effect. What I did notice is it gives a thinner sound. But that is not such a right word. Maybe less beefy. Maybe the okes who know the terminology can help out. (One thing I find about the guitar that isnt so good for me is that the neck is plenty small). Open it up and take a look. you're bound to find a wiring diagram on the webz somewhere. Or cuddle up to one of the techie types on the forum and they will help you, I'm sure. Sorry, but I dont really know except from what it sounded like to me.

AlanRatcliffe

Greenwitch wrote: Is there any audible difference between the singlecoil and humbucker setting on your Ibanez.

There should be a very clear difference in the tone and power between the two. Single-coil is half the power, brighter and more percussive.

On the floating bridge thing - you can lower the studs so the bridge is flat on the body, and raise the saddles to compensate - That does away with most of the instability). Then just tighten the screws on the trem claw until the bridge pulls down hard against the body.