Ray
DOnt know if this has been discussed here before. Maybe becasue I seem to remember some discussion on it. Anyway, I have an electric guitar which I quite enjoy, it's an Ibanez solid body. But I tune the thing up and it play ok but after awhile it seems to have gone out of tune and stroosbob when I plug it into the tuning thing it needs to be tuned. Now, I've read that it could be slack in the machines/gears adn sloppy saddles and tight nuts. First things first, is there any good in this nut sauce that I see spoken about and if so, is it available in our stores? Then, I have been thinking about getting some new tuners and replacing the old ones. Is this the sort of job I can tackle myself? What is a good set of tuners to get and where can I get (local or stewmac)? And, I am now also thinking that maybe I should slap in new saddles. Good idea? Can I do it myself? What is good stuff and where can I find? What else?
thanx
AlanRatcliffe
If the strings are fitted correctly and aren't too old, look at the nut first. Try tighten the screws on the tuning machine keys too - that tightens the action and makes them hold better (even if they have worn). If the tuning machines do need replacement, both Gotoh and Schaller are good. I usually import.
Saddles are rarely the problem. What kind of bridge does this Ibby have? In fact, what model is it?
TomCat
Do you store/transport the guitar in a case.
One thing I've learned is to take the guitar out of the case and leave it on a stand for at least 10 minutes before tuning it. This allows the guitar to adjust to the change of environment. I found that by doing this the guitar stays in tune much longer.
Bob-Dubery
Does it go sharp or flat?
I'd think that the nut is the most likely culprit. But some kind of sauce on the nut may not be enough if the slots are too tight or have rough edges in them.
Ray
Alan Ratcliffe wrote:
If the strings are fitted correctly and aren't too old, look at the nut first. Try tighten the screws on the tuning machine keys too - that tightens the action and makes them hold better (even if they have worn). If the tuning machines do need replacement, both Gotoh and Schaller are good. I usually import.
Saddles are rarely the problem. What kind of bridge does this Ibby have? In fact, what model is it?
Geez, you know, I think it's a tune-o-matic bridge. The guitar is a SAS32FM. For tuners, is it best to get the locking tuners? The gear ratio, what is the best to look for?
Gareth
For nut sauce, tuning gears etc, I use graphite dust, can be a little tricky to find, try a locksmith, failing which a very soft pencil, also remember to tune UP to the the note to avoid string slack behind the nut.
HTH
TomCat
I normally use a soft pencil and it works great.
PeteM
Gareth wrote:
remember to tune UP to the the note to avoid string slack behind the nut.
Good advice - tuning from the top down is usually the biggest culprit for strings going out of tune all the time.
Bob-Dubery
Gareth wrote:
For nut sauce, tuning gears etc, I use graphite dust, can be a little tricky to find, try a locksmith, failing which a very soft pencil, also remember to tune UP to the the note to avoid string slack behind the nut.
Yeah I always do that. If the string is sharp I actually go flat and then bring it back up to concert pitch.
What I can't make any sense of is all the different theories about how to wind your strings on to avoid slippage.
Some advocate multiple winds, with the windings progressively going DOWN the shaft of the tuner. Others say one wind only. Another piece of advice I read was "The string should be wound around the tuning peg at least three times before being slotted through the hole."
Go figure. These can't ALL be right.
AlanRatcliffe
Many of the better hardwares and locksmiths have the graphite powder. Just-a-Puff is one brand that springs to mind. Otherwise a 2B pencil works fine and is easy to apply. However, most of the better nut materials (unbleached bone, Tusq, Black Tusq, Corian, Micarta) are all self lubricating, so it's best just to make sure the nut is cut right in the first place.
The SAS32FM is closest to a modern Strat Trem bridge from what I have seen. You won't find saddles for that, but it's not a problematic design anyway.
I like the locking tuners as they let you get the fewest number of string winds (usually only about half a wind) on the capstan, so there's one less thing to go wrong, especially if you use a trem.
Tuning up (or down in the case of some locking tuners) makes a difference if the tuners are worn or if the nut is binding. A good set of tuners and well cut nut it actually makes little difference IME.
PeteM
Alan Ratcliffe wrote:
Tuning up (or down in the case of some locking tuners) makes a difference if the tuners are worn or if the nut is binding. A good set of tuners and well cut nut it actually makes little difference IME.
Agreed, but how many guitars are fitted so? I tune up as a matter of habit, just in case.
AlanRatcliffe
PeteM wrote:
Agreed, but how many guitars are fitted so? I tune up as a matter of habit, just in case.
All mine are. ? Good point though.
Gareth
Hey Bob, re string turns ... I play bass and normally have a coupla turns on it, with a nylon string you do need more turns than on a steel/electric as they don't kink and are slippery things, I always wind toward the post, as then there's less leverage on the post itself.
On a bass it's easy (on mine anyway) to keep the headstock tidy by dropping the string end in the hole in the post, some strats etc. also have this, normally if they're slotted posts (this was quite a discovery for me ? ), on other guitars I always snip the exes as I really hate seeing a guitar with strings waving off the end.
Ray
Alan Ratcliffe wrote:
If the strings are fitted correctly and aren't too old, look at the nut first. Try tighten the screws on the tuning machine keys too - that tightens the action and makes them hold better (even if they have worn). If the tuning machines do need replacement, both Gotoh and Schaller are good. I usually import.
Saddles are rarely the problem. What kind of bridge does this Ibby have? In fact, what model is it?
I've been looking at these tuners in the Stemac catalog and went and took a look at the stewmac site as well, you know setting the currency to SA rand and didnt look too bad. Then took a look at Take2 and hell, it's expensive there. Anyway going to try all the other suggestions specific for the nut first. I think it may be the nut thing as I upped the string gauge. The old strings were .9's and just the slightest movement sounds like you giving the whammy bar a moerse yank. I popped a block off wood behind the piece of metal in the body of the guitar to stop the bridge lifting up in the sky with the heavier strings. Dont use the whammy bar anyway. Back to subject I guess I'll just have to mosey on over to the guitar fella again.
Thanks for the inputs.
Squonk
Hell Ray, Those are extra light strings. I think you should get at the very least .10's
I have never tried 9's , I am too scared they will snap ?
Bob-Dubery
Ray wrote:
I think it may be the nut thing as I upped the string gauge. The old strings were .9's and just the slightest movement sounds like you giving the whammy bar a moerse yank. I popped a block off wood behind the piece of metal in the body of the guitar to stop the bridge lifting up in the sky with the heavier strings.
If the guitar was set up for 9s and you've gone heavier then the nut slots may be too tight for the strings you are currently using - which would cause tuning problems.
Ray
Ja, went to .13 but then down to 12 and now 11. that is why I had to use the block of wood. Just have to go and get the nut seen to - while I'm at it just get replaced for a bone one as well.
Greenwitch
Hi Ray
I also own the sas32fm model And had the same issues as you have. The main problem it seems is the SAT Pro Bridge that is installed on the instrument. I've read a few complaints about the bridge not keeping the tuning. >☹
What I Used to do was to fix the bridge by tightening the springs in the back. If you prefer to keep it a floating bridge, use the whammy as light as possible because it will go out of tune.
Except for the tuning problem, I'm still in love with my guit and its got great tone for the buck. ?
Like to see what others have to say as well.
Ray
Thanks G. See, the floating bridge thing doesnt seem to like having heavy strings on and I wabnt heavy strings so a couple weeks back I asked the forum about the feasibility of getting a fixed hardtail installed and the okes said it isnt really worth it which is pretty much what I suspected but still I dont use the whammy and this floating thing just seems to be unstable in my uneducated opinion. So, I am just slapping a block of wood in the back between body wood and the bit that sticks down in the body. Seems to work. Just a bit of a sweat when you restring. But I do liek the guitar. Bought it from someone on this forum about a year ago when I started getting interested. Cheers
Greenwitch
I hear you.
At one stage I had a few 5cent pieces as a quick fix. Unluckily I can't help with the problem. Mine is quite stable, I just fine tune it a bit before playing, but I play with tens and a is setup for whammy. It just seems to be a prob with that bridge. I'll have a look around if there is any proper mod to fix the prob.
