Wizard's first build attempt

Wizard · 2009-10-31T14:59:27+00:00

Bought the wood. A 3m stretch of Alder planed to 46mm supposedly; actually 50mm: Cut out 5 blanks. This one has a large knot ... so am using this as my first attempt: Using a circular saw & jigsaw got the first rough cut. Then smoothed with belt sander:

Gearhead

Alan Ratcliffe wrote The springs of a trem do still add something.

Put it any way you like, you could have said "take away something" just as well ?

AlanRatcliffe

Absolutely! I almost said that too, but didn't want to confuse the issue. ?

Wizard

Ok.
A hardtail it will be.

Does anyone local sell hardtail bridges?
Neither Bothners nor Marshall's had anything.

Found these at StewMac and ACME, but don't feel like waiting for an import.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_non-trem_bridges/Gotoh_Hardtail_Bridge.html?tab=Pictures#details
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_non-trem_bridges/Hipshot_Hardtail_Bridge.html
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_non-trem_bridges/Top-Loading_Hardtail_Bridge.html
http://www.acmeguitarworks.com/Fender_Bridge_Hardtail_Vinta_P1130C200.cfm
http://www.acmeguitarworks.com/Fender_Bridge_Hardtail_Ameri_P425C201.cfm

What are the pro's and con's of top-loading or through-body stringing?
Do you get the body to participate in the tone more by going through-body?

Renesongs

I think the Gotoh is the one to go for. In the trem bridge the strings mount inside the metal block therefore IMO threading strings through the body in a hartail is just an unnecessary pain in the ass but then I am just a guitarist not a luthier

Wizard

Here's a whacky idea that's probably flawed in many ways.
Remove the tone block from a trem bridge and use the 3 screw holes to attach it back as a hardtail.
Obvious downsides include:
- need to drill holes through body for strings
- have 6 empty holes, or otherwise replace 6 screws for cosmetic effect.
- have an empty hole where the whammy bar would have gone

But otherwise, it seems to work.
?

Here's the mock-up:

AlanRatcliffe

Wizard wrote Does anyone local sell hardtail bridges?

Someone might have, but not that I know offhand.

The Hipshot is actually nice - easy on the right hand, but the US Fender isn't bad in that regard either and is authentic looking as well.

What are the pro's and con's of top-loading or through-body stringing?
Do you get the body to participate in the tone more by going through-body?

That's the theory. That top loader is nasty pot metal anyway.

Don't forget you need ferrules for a through body mount too.

Gearhead

+1 for the quick fix, the difference with a proper hardtail bridge is going to be where the screws sit relative to the saddles; not a major issue.
-1 for your reluctance to go through the body. Through body adds (not subtracts ? ) vibration transfer from body to strings and vice versa, something you can never have as good with back loaders. The attack is also different (more) when pushing hard, since the dead string length stretches while you pick. I have some spare ferrules you are welcome to....

Wizard

-1 for your reluctance to go through the body.

On reflection, I'm not reluctant to go through the body.
A few holes in the drill press - no problem.
Besides - I've spent all this time on the single piece, proper Alder body - I want to give it as much chance as possible to participate in the tone
?

That's the theory. That top loader is nasty pot metal anyway.

I think it's horrible too

Now must just decide whether to buy a proper hardtail; or use my approximation.
Perhaps leave out the 6 screws, so any replacement hardtail bridge will cover the holes I've made.

Renesongs

IMO if you going to drill holes for the stings you might as well drill/cut/rout one nasty big hole for the trem block to fit in thus releavng you of the need for string ferrules. If you have uncertainties on how the strat trem bridge works or it specs pop down to my place and check my Strat out which I have set to floating and my daughters Squire which is set flat.

Gearhead

+1 on the trem block rout: it really is not such a hard job, there actually is a couple of mm clearance in the thing so it comes a lot less close than a neck rout. You need a router bit that goes more than halfway into the body, then you drill through and come back from the back with a copier bit. Finally, the spring cavity can be cut with a template follower. Only real mistake you can make is not pick up on the trem block not being in the middle. It sits towards the pots to make room for the whammy bar.
A Strat is a Strat is a Strat, and Strats tend to have Strat tremolo's.

Wizard

Renesongs wrote IMO if you going to drill holes for the stings you might as well drill/cut/rout one nasty big hole for the trem block ...

Gearhead wrote +1 on the trem block rout: it really is not such a hard job ...
A Strat is a Strat is a Strat, and Strats tend to have Strat tremolo's.

Wizard will reconsider the trem bridge ...

Wizard

Disaster has struck.

My part built strat & 3 remaining blanks were on a (slatted) shelf in my garage.
Someone innocently put a bottle of StaySoft on the shelf above them ... on its side ... with the lid not properly put on.

The entire bottle of StaySoft has leaked out and soaked into all of the wood ... including my part completed Strat.
What is that word again?
I'm sure it has 4 letters.

* sob *

Renesongs

Ouch - Excuse my ignorance but wouldn't imagine that Stay soft in concentrated form would have penetrated the wood much hopefully you can mop the majority off with paper towel and clean the remainder with a damp cloth and leave to dry. You might get a little staining from the lanolin oil but I slight sanding should remove it.

Wizard

I very much like your positive attitude Rene ... and sincerely hope you're right.
I addressed the issue with a double whisky ...

Renesongs

Whisky now that will work well but Methyl alcohol would be little cheaper. Be careful not to leach too much of the natural oils out of your wood though.

AlanRatcliffe

I know that particular word well. Probably not the end of the world (unless Sta-soft contains silicone oils).

Softeners are usually rendered fats, so the cure would be wiping down with vinegar. I'd probably follow up with good old naphtha (lighter fluid) too, to make sure. All else fails, you can seal with shellac, which will lock in any remaining contaminants.

aja

Maybe you have discovered a new technique. ?

Hope you can fix it!

Wizard

I'm going to finish the guitar anyway.
It will just have to add to the character
:?

aja

Wizard wrote I'm going to finish the guitar anyway.
It will just have to add to the character
:?

that's the spirit!

Wizard

Ok ... eventually got my StewMac order with bits & pieces to continue the build.
Includes Graphtec nut & string trees; bridge; pickguard, shielding tape etc ...

Duty was VAT + 25 handling fee.

Was surprised that the bridge came in a StewMac plastic bag ... was expecting it in the cool Wilkinsohn box like the one I bought from Alan

Was also surprised that the pickguard has the "mini" shielding on the back, not the full back screening.
(perhaps they didn't want to cover the "made in korea" sticker)
Anyway it looks really cool.
Should I shield the whole back of the pickguard?

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