Wizard's first build attempt

Wizard · 2009-10-31T14:59:27+00:00

Bought the wood. A 3m stretch of Alder planed to 46mm supposedly; actually 50mm: Cut out 5 blanks. This one has a large knot ... so am using this as my first attempt: Using a circular saw & jigsaw got the first rough cut. Then smoothed with belt sander:

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Wizard wrote
Brentcgp wrote ... but I am so scared of the finishing and spraying that I just stopped thinking about it... ?
To be honest, I'm not all that fussed about the finishing.
This is a musical instrument I'm making; not an artwork.
It must look good; and I'm hoping it will.
The imperfections are what will make it "mine" (and there are many already).

I plan on a simple finish of hand applied Tung Oil.
If it gets a bit dinged, I'll fix with resanding and re-oiling.

If it gets too dinged, I'll just make another body.
?

I see....

Don't you think a Tung Oil finish would be even more difficult.

How many coats do you need? Wouldn't some parts of the body be more absorbant to the oil than other parts, so there will be darker patches? I'm just trying to picture it done properly...

It would look SO good in a natural "tung oil" finish... and so so smooth ?

Looking forward to seeing the progress!!! Dings/imperfections and all. It looks good 8)

AlanRatcliffe

Tung oil is easy - three to four coats. The first thinned coat does absorb a little (it's supposed to), but not too deep. Subsequent coats are thicker and won't disappear.

Wizard

Got hold of a cheap bridge today; Mighty Mite vintage strat replica (please don't laugh Gearhead).
Am getting some tuners tomorrow - sourced from a Highway 1.

But I'll be damned if I can find a nut !!

My options today were:
- a cheap plastic nut - which I don't want
- a reasonable looking nut ... but which was uncut - which I don't want.

Anyone in the Southern Suburbs of Cape Town with a decent spare (cut) nut floating about?

Gearhead

Wizard wrote please don't laugh Gearhead

:'( why would I? :'( ☹

jingerwarrior

Why dont you make your own bone nut?

Gearhead

jingerwarrior wrote Why dont you make your own bone nut?

Firstly, even if you can source nice bone and shape it into form, you need a set of files to groove the nut. This needs to be done properly, meaning at the right spacing, angle, diameter and depth. The latter is important for intonation, spacing is important for the guitar's feel and the other two are essential to proper tuning.
I can't read minds, let alone Wizards' one, but I'm sure he's not looking forward to spending more money on a set of nut files than he has spent on the whole guitar so far, which is what a good set costs....

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Alan Ratcliffe wrote Tung oil is easy - three to four coats. The first thinned coat does absorb a little (it's supposed to), but not too deep. Subsequent coats are thicker and won't disappear.

Ah ok ? See how little I know about finishing!

Wizard

Gearhead wrote I can't read minds, let alone Wizards' one, but I'm sure he's not looking forward to spending more money on a set of nut files than he has spent on the whole guitar so far, which is what a good set costs....

I was offered a blank nut yesterday, but as Gearhead implies:
a) nut files are very expensive (never quite figured out why)
b) from what I can understand, the nut slots (width, depth & quality of cut) are critical to the sound

So am far happier to just buy a preslotted one.

I would guess that the nut and bridge, being the end-points of the strings, are absolutely critical to string resonance.

Gearhead

Just to be complete, the depth has to do with two things:
- the height from the fretboard (minus the fret height) determines intonation;
- the height from the nut top is important for proper 'seating' of the strings. Too low and there is a chance they might pull out on bends and pull-offs, too deep is less critical but hard to achieve. There is some debate about what shape is best for proper seating without clamping, but I have no clue what difference it makes.

I think nut files should be better quality material than 'normal' files since they are to size and should stay to size.

@Wizard: you still need to get the intonation right by inserting the nut without glue, testing the semi note step on an accurate tuner and playing with the slot height....

Wizard

Gearhead wrote @Wizard: you still need to get the intonation right by inserting the nut without glue, testing the semi note step on an accurate tuner and playing with the slot height....

Wizard grumbles to himself: "If they can make adjustable height bridges, why don't they make adjustable height nuts?"

On a separate note, I was offered a "roller nut".
Looked a little weird and tricky to install.
Are these a good or bad idea?

Gearhead

The Fender LSR roller nut rolls fine and sounds good until any of the balls wear out. After that, it buzzes and needs replacement; most people put the hard-but-slippery stuff back in.

AlanRatcliffe

Gearhead wrote The Fender LSR roller nut rolls fine and sounds good until any of the balls wear out. After that, it buzzes and needs replacement; most people put the hard-but-slippery stuff back in.

+1. Same with the Wilkinsons.

Wizard wrote Wizard grumbles to himself: "If they can make adjustable height bridges, why don't they make adjustable height nuts?

They do. Dunlop has brass ones (as it were). I have one in a drawer here somewhere (Gibson style unfortunately). The Warwick basses (...? or WAL?) used to come with them. Nice to set perfect nut action or change it fairly quickly (like to raise it for slide), but not the best idea for tone.

Wizard

Alan Ratcliffe wrote ... Nice to set perfect nut action or change it fairly quickly (like to raise it for slide), but not the best idea for tone.

Setup is done once, but playing is done everyday.
Therefore tone is more important than ease of setup.

I have to say that these lessons become much more meaningful when you're actually applying them to a real build.
Not just theoretical insights.

Thanks guys for the continued wisdom which you've learned the hard way !

Wizard

Got some tuners today ... sourced from a Highway 1 Strat.
Only problem is that the shafts are larger than the holes in the neck (quite a bit)
How do you widen the holes, while doing it cleanly and neatly?

Gearhead

Ouch. The simplest would be to get a stepped drill at the right size, remember that the bushings are supposed to be a tightish fit. Put it in a drill press, make sure the headstock sits flush and Bob's your uncle (or whatever name / family relation you're interested in). Just make pretty darn sure you've got the size right (imperial vs. metric etc.)
Another option would be a reamer to the right size, but that's not going to be an easy item to get hold of this side of the globe.
Finally you could even take a round stick, some sand paper and a lot of patience but I suspect you're not going to fall for that trap ?

Wizard

I was contemplating finding a Forstner bit of the right diameter ... and using a jig to hold the neck in exactly the right place while i drilled them out with a drill press.
All depends on whether I can find the right diameter drill.
How can I find out the exact correct diameter?

Gearhead

Wizard wrote I was contemplating finding a Forstner bit of the right diameter ... and using a jig to hold the neck in exactly the right place while i drilled them out with a drill press.

I guess that would result in an F-up since no matter how tight your jig/press stiffness and tolerances, your bit will have a severe tendency to go off centre. You need a conical or cylindrical shaft to stay centred.

Wizard wrote How can I find out the exact correct diameter?

Measure the outer ribs of the bushing, subtract 0.5-1.0mm and drill that size hole in some off cut. Test for proper seating and adjust drill size if needs be.

AlanRatcliffe

Is it press fit bushings or threaded? If they are threaded, 9.5mm does the trick nicely. If you want to be real careful, a tapered reamer does the job nicely.

To be honest, I've never had a problem just going for it with a drill press and no clamps or jigs, just holding it by hand. :-[

Wizard

Alan Ratcliffe wrote To be honest, I've never had a problem just going for it with a drill press and no clamps or jigs, just holding it by hand. :-[

What type of bit did you use?
A normal one? Forstner bit? Other?

AlanRatcliffe

Normal bit. The tip helps locate and centre the bit in the existing hole so I don't enlarge the hole off centre. Really, it's not difficult. Practice on some scrap if you're nervous.

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