220V-120V AC converters

Riaan

Hey guys my Behringer FCB1010 MIDI foot controller arrived today - the one I got on EBay. Coming from the US however, it is of course a 120V 60Hz appliance. Any recommendations as to the best AC converters to get that will give me 120V 60Hz from our 220V 50Hz? Will any of these available from the online electronic component stores do?

Gearhead

It might in this case (low power, built in psu) be easier to mod the power supply of the thing itself. You replace the tranny and of you are. What spec? The average electronics guy will be easily capable of telling you all you need to know in two minutes.

FenderBender

Hey Riaan, there were some models that could easily be switched between 120 & 230 volts. You might be lucky, so take a look at the back of the FCB and you should see a small, removable panel built into the power socket. There are two arrows on it that correspond with 230V & 120V. You need to unclip the panel with a small flat screwdriver, remove, rotate and re-insert it so the correct arrow aligns with the arrow on the frame of the socket. Check that the correct fuse is fitted for 230 volt use: 50mA 250V.

Here is a shot of the power socket and voltage selector panel:

Riaan

You might be lucky,

...I wasn't ☹ It looks like mine just has the fuse holder, there are no arrows and the box can't be rotated. What's confusing however, is that the power socket has 250V imprinted in the plasctic, and the fuse says 250V but there's a factory sticker on the back of the unit that says 120V 60Hz. I've e-mailed Behringer with the serial number and asked what the accepted voltages would be, hopefully they'll reply tomorrow.

From what I've seen on the net, one cannot simply use a voltage converter, it needs to be a proper transformer - I didn't know there was a difference?

It might in this case (low power, built in psu) be easier to mod the power supply of the thing itself.

Another option might be a phantom power kit (http://www.dmvelectronics.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1&idcategory=)

The easiest and quickest for me would probably be to get a voltage step down transformer, as I'm quite keen to start playing around with it...looks like another steep learning curve, this MIDI business!
Thanks for the advice guys.

djpauw

Step-down transformer for 220 to 110 connection... yuck!

I'n not directly familiar with the device you are talking about, but I am an electronic engineer and I can see a couple of options that would be acceptable to me... if I were you that is:

1 - Like someone else said, your power supply may be able to switch between 110 and 220, but you already indicated that you don't have that switch on the back.... no go

2 - The power supply may be of the "wide input" type, meaning usually they can accept a range from 90V up to 250V... wait for Behringer to confirm... possible

3 - I all of the above fail, I would see what voltages the actual system circuit board require, I would strip out the old power supply and replace it with one that works off 220V. This option would probably have me design and build a power supply myself either a simple one with a transformer or possibly a more complex PWM supply similar to what was in there in the first place.

The last option clearly requires you to have some experience in this sort of field, so that might not be a good solution for you still...?

I think the best advice is too be careful so you buy stuff that was intended for 220V in the first place... It's hardly worth the effort (and money) to make it work.

Cheers

DJ

matta

Hi DJ,

djpauw wroteStep-down transformer for 220 to 110 connection... yuck!

Why? If the VA rating of the said transformer can supply the required current draw then there is no problem? It is a simple 2:1 step-down and will have NO EFFECT on the efficiency of the unit whatsoever? I can understand if the 'yuck' is based on it being somewhat cumbersome, but it is JUST as efficient.

djpauw wroteI'n not directly familiar with the device you are talking about, but I am an electronic engineer and I can see a couple of options that would be acceptable to me... if I were you that is:

2 - The power supply may be of the "wide input" type, meaning usually they can accept a range from 90V up to 250V... wait for Behringer to confirm... possible

Not likely, CE regulations state that this needs too be indicated on the device itself, and Behinger are CE certified (whether anyone actaully check I don't know!).

djpauw wrote3 - I all of the above fail, I would see what voltages the actual system circuit board require, I would strip out the old power supply and replace it with one that works off 220V. This option would probably have me design and build a power supply myself either a simple one with a transformer or possibly a more complex PWM supply similar to what was in there in the first place.

The last option clearly requires you to have some experience in this sort of field, so that might not be a good solution for you still...?

Most line voltages in SA are in excess of 220VAC these days. My suppliers use 230VAC stock on primaries of transformers they wind. Also if you are not familiar with the said deceive what make you sure that it is PWM design over a Linear design? And why would you design a PWM over a Linear? Just curious? Linear are much easier to service in the field...

djpauw wroteI think the best advice is too be careful so you buy stuff that was intended for 220V in the first place... It's hardly worth the effort (and money) to make it work.

Hah Hah, now a I VERY much disagree... want to tell my client that it better to pay R30,000 for an amp that they just picked up on a vacation in the USA for R10,000? I'm guessing he would rather swap pay me R300 to have a trannie wired to the same specs but with a 230V one primary over the 115VAC one.

Cheers

Matt

AlanRatcliffe

matta wrote Not likely, CE regulations state that this needs too be indicated on the device itself, and Behinger are CE certified (whether anyone actaully check I don't know!).

Products for sale in the EU must be CE certified, but that certification can be done by the manufacturer themselves. So the CE marking means that the manufacturer claims compliance, not that it actually is. Actual compliance is not verified unless there is a complaint claiming otherwise.

Garth-S

I have a transformer and is pretty small.. check it out in the pic below, it's the little brown thing. It works great, just get's really hot.

Stevovo

Hi guys,

Just reading this thread for info - I've got a step-down transformer [220V - 110V] to power my Fender SuperChamp amp from the States and it really doesn't seem to work - all I get is whine and fuzz... Is this a normal thing? Guys at my local guitar shop said I'll need someone to build me a more heavy duty transformer and the issue with the amp is a power supply thing... Any ideas? Anyone got something to sell me? ?

AlanRatcliffe

Check that your transformer has enough juice to handle the current draw of the amp (rated in amps). If it does then take both in to an amp tech - it could have been damaged in shipping.

The downside to getting it cheap from the US... Eh? ☹

Gearhead

One more thing about the CE certification (and I've done a dozen): Alan is spot on with the can, practice is that most companies do do it themselves. It's not hard, mostly because you only need to look at what you describe to be the intended use. If for instance in the US a certain bedroom toy does not say you cannot use it to keep Bubbles away from the children, one could sue the manufacturer if using it that way has done any harm (to the monkey, the children, the parents, their neighbours or even to mr. Chang). In the EU, it suffices to say that it is intended to 'tie your mother down'.
Then, for instance on safety, you can do your own safety evaluation as well. If for instance you think that it would be very harmful if someone used said toy for dangerous games very few ever attempt, but cause certain minor discomfort to everyone ever handling the thing, the measure taken to prevent such harm might be the same in both cases - coming down to the product of frequency of use and extent of the damage.
It's all up to the individual working at the manufacturer, until a judge decides that that was not enough.
Just so you understand :-[