Paint stripper

giggsy

Is it recommended for a guitar? The finish that I am trying to remove is a custom one anyway.

Heath

Ye paint stripper is ok on guitar , just be sure to clean the guitar properly of the stripper before priming and respraying

giggsy

Great, thanks - going to visit the local hardware tomorrow for supplies so wanted to check if stripper should be on my list. Actually going to be photographing the project and writing it up for a local DIY magazine which I freelance for... should be interesting!

AlanRatcliffe

Stripper is fine in most cases - just be careful with plastic bindings and neck dots, etc...

It doesn't work on polyester, but if you have a custom paint job, I doubt it will be that.

From something I wrote recently:

Chemical stripping
Chemical strippers should be approached with caution when it comes to stripping the finish from a guitar, as not only do they soften the finish to allow it to be scraped off easily, but will also dissolve most plastic guitar bindings and position dots. They can and are used, but care must be taken not to do any damage.

Chemical stripper cautions:
1. Chemical strippers are very strong chemicals that can be dangerous if they contact your skin or eyes, so rubber gloves and safety goggles are the bare minimum needed to be safe. Be sure to read the manufacturer's directions carefully and familiarize yourself with the recommended treatment for exposure to them and ideally have any recommended safety equipment nearby.
2. Chemical strippers are usually toxic and give off fumes which are toxic, so you must ensure that you have proper ventilation in your working environment and work with a respirator.
3. Chemical strippers and their fumes are highly flammable so when working with them be sure to work away from open flames and with good ventilation.

Prepare your work area by laying down cardboard or paper. I like using cardboard as it is fairly rigid and provides a little bit of cushioning for the part you are working on. Make sure there are no open flames nearby and move anything that might be damaged by harsh chemicals well out of the way. Gather any tools or equipment you need such as glass jars and brushes for application, plastic garbage bags for covering the part once the stripper has been applied and any safety gear needed.

Method
If your part to be stripped has any binding, take the time to mask off the binding and dots and any other plastic parts with paper tape. The tape will protect these sensitive parts from the harsh chemicals of the stripper. You will still need to remove the finish from the binding, but that will be relatively easy to do later with a scraper. Don your safety gear as instructed by the directions. Transfer some of the stripper to a glass jar or other stripper-resistant small container. Now you are ready to start applying the stripper.

Ideally you need to work in sections, completing each before you move on to the next. Begin with the large surfaces such as the top or rear of the body or the back of a neck and once they are completed, move on to the smaller sections such as the sides of the body or the headstock face. Apply the stripper liberally with your brush, but not too much – you need a thick layer, but not so much that it runs easily.

Once you have coated your first section with stripper, put the body or neck into a plastic garbage bag and leave it to stand as per the stripper directions. The plastic bag will keep the stripper from drying too quickly if you want to leave it to stand for longer than usual, and also work as a drop cloth of sorts when you scrape off the finish. It's usually a good idea to make sure it is resistant to the stripper beforehand by testing a small amount of the chemical on a corner of a bag.

Once it has stood for the recommended time, peel back the bag and use it as a drop cloth. Use scrapers to remove the sludge. Coarse twine is good to remove finish from tight corners and sharpened dowels work well if you have any small cracks or pits you need to dig out. There are also a variety of specialty scrapers with points and curved edges (both convex and concave) which can make your life much easier if you have them. Once you have scraped off all the sludge, remove the part from the bag and fold the bag with the sludge inside so you can dispose of it easily.

You might find a thick hard finish does not strip completely with the first coat of stripper, so if needed, repeat the process until you are down to the bare wood. Then move on to the next section and repeat. Once you have finished stripping the entire part, apply a thin coat of the stripper to the whole part, leave for a few minutes and then scrub off any remaining finish with a stripping brush.

Finish up by wiping down the wood with the solvent recommended by the directions (often white spirits) to clear off any remaining stripper.

Attila

Hey Gregg ...shouldn't you be using a heat gun instead

giggsy

Thanks Alan, great advice as usual.

Attila wrote Hey Gregg ...shouldn't you be using a heat gun instead

Hi Attila - if I had one I would consider using it, but knowing me, I'd burn the wood! And don't worry, its not the Aria! Its for a Flying V which I picked up. I'm hoping that beneath the paint I will find some stunning wood... will let you know.