BOSS LS-2

JoeyBones · 2009-04-24T08:13:54+00:00

So I'm eventually getting around to building my True Bypass looper and I'm thniking of getting the LS-2 to reduce the number of loops I'll need. My idea is to run my drives into the A channel and put my clean booster into the B channel to make it easy for me to switch from Drive to Clean. I use my booster to normalize my volume levels and it improves my clean tone. Has anyone used one of these before? I've watched a few demo's on YouTube, but they can be subjective.

Shawnvs

GR8. Rock n roll ?

JoeyBones

My brother being the electronics wiz that I hope he is, has worked out a way yo make this work with a 3PDT switch. I don't fully understand his logic, so I'll get him to draw a diagram if he gets it to work.

Heath

Any reason why nobody is using 6v relays , i built a a/b switch for my external pedals using a 6/v relay i was expecting some kind of hum , but nothing , nice and clean and they can be controller via a dpdt foot switch easily . mine is controlled via my fcb controller

matta

Tailon. wrote Any reason why nobody is using 6v relays , i built a a/b switch for my external pedals using a 6/v relay i was expecting some kind of hum , but nothing , nice and clean and they can be controller via a dpdt foot switch easily . mine is controlled via my fcb controller

Quality relays are expensive and require power... the 3PDT/4PDT is TRUE BYPASS and passive, so if you loose power you switch will still work, you won't have LED's, but the audio will still pass. With a relay if it set to OFF or ON it will latch in this configuration.

It do see the value in it, but I'm just pointing out the obvious disadvantages.

Cheers

Matt

FenderBender

Ok I have done my homework regarding the 4PDT stomp switch we were looking for.

There is only one supplier I can find in CT that can provide a solution. I used to use their range of switches on a daily basis between 1994 and 2008 and never witnessed any failures in this time.
It is an industrial grade mushroom type switch head with a latching action (ie tap to enable, tap again to release) and fits into a 22mm dia circular chassis cutout or hole.
Different modules can then be clipped onto the unit that protrudes under the chassis plate it is mounted on. The unit I have put together is a rather pricey piece of equipment, as it contains 8 switch contact elements (the max possible) in order to provide 4PDT action. The thing is as solid as a brick ****house and I have seen them last for up to 20 years and more in local factories. Tested to over 5 million operations (vs Small Bear's offering at 30k ops).

This is not a switch for those on a tight budget, more for those GASheads that really want and can afford such things and don't want to wait for goods from overseas. Currently the entire 10 part assembly is priced at R450, although I am sure I can squeeze the Germans for a better price.

Check out dimensions:

http://www.pichost.co.za/v/Z3PvJ
http://www.pichost.co.za/v/6KMjK
http://www.pichost.co.za/v/4ar8D

The head looks like the green one in this pic, but can be one of 8 colours and a laser engraved plate can be added to the centre of the head.

http://www.pichost.co.za/v/ZJ4ZK

matta

Graeme Parfett wrote Ok I have done my homework regarding the 4PDT stomp switch we were looking for.

There is only one supplier I can find in CT that can provide a solution. I used to use their range of switches on a daily basis between 1994 and 2008 and never witnessed any failures in this time.
It is an industrial grade mushroom type switch head with a latching action (ie tap to enable, tap again to release) and fits into a 22mm dia circular chassis cutout or hole.
Different modules can then be clipped onto the unit that protrudes under the chassis plate it is mounted on. The unit I have put together is a rather pricey piece of equipment, as it contains 8 switch contact elements (the max possible) in order to provide 4PDT action. The thing is as solid as a brick ****house and I have seen them last for up to 20 years and more in local factories. Tested to over 5 million operations (vs Small Bear's offering at 30k ops).

This is not a switch for those on a tight budget, more for those GASheads that really want and can afford such things and don't want to wait for goods from overseas. Currently the entire 10 part assembly is priced at R450, although I am sure I can squeeze the Germans for a better price.

Check out dimensions:

http://www.pichost.co.za/v/Z3PvJ
http://www.pichost.co.za/v/6KMjK
http://www.pichost.co.za/v/4ar8D

The head looks like the green one in this pic, but can be one of 8 colours and a laser engraved plate can be added to the centre of the head.

http://www.pichost.co.za/v/ZJ4ZK

Graeme,

While the SB one may be marked at 30,000 cycles, it is more than MOST and CLIFF are regarded as standard by many boutique pedal manufactures and it is FAR more economical at $11 (MOQ of 10 units as with your German Switch) than R450.00

Some of the TAIWAN switches only have 10,000 ratings and MANY of those are used by boutique and commercial pedal designers commanding hefty prices for their goods.

I think your would be hard pressed to find anyone wanting to shell out R450 for the switch before you add PCB costs, enclosure etc... it is always a balance between price/performance.

Another thing. your switch looks like it requires the 'inner circle' to be pressed/depressed, much like a panel mounted push button switch, if so, how in the world do you plan to switch it with your foot?

Cheers

Matt

Shawnvs

I'm confuzzled. So, I am about to buy the Octaswitch from Carl Martin. Does anybody here have a unit similiar to the octaswitch.

I want my guitar signal to be as clean as possible. Right now I am running it from ToneLab>KoassPad>Plexitone> Amp. Some songs I have just clean NOFX, but my signal is still running through all those.

Solution Octaswitch $$ ☹

AlanRatcliffe

You could just use a simple single bypass pedal to bypass the whole effects chain with one switch. Cheap and effective. Octaswitch or similar if you want to switch in one effect or combination and still true bypass the rest - kind of overkill, IMO.

Shawnvs

Typical me. Overkill.

I have to have at least have one unit on at some part of the tunes. I tend to do a lot of tap dancing on stage, although people don't notice it.

The other issue thats bugging me is this. Good tone is a serious luxury. Fans of my band wont hear tone, and when I record in studio I usually go guitar straight into the amp anyway, and then other layers come along with fx etc etc.

Why should I starve now, when people cant even hear the difference between a metal core/zone and tube screamer when playing live.

FenderBender

matta wrote I think your would be hard pressed to find anyone wanting to shell out R450 for the switch

Kinda what I said in my post.

your switch looks like it requires the 'inner circle' to be pressed/depressed, much like a panel mounted push button switch, if so, how in the world do you plan to switch it with your foot?

Ok firstly, it is not my switch. Secondly, the entire mushroom head is a latching actuator. As I said, I did my homework.

Just letting members know what's out there.

Heath

fort777 has dpdt latching foot switch for R47 , 9v relays (3dpdt) about 10 bucks , 6 jack plugs around 40 bucks or so , and a 9v battery clip a little vero board and a nice metal box (around 60 bucks) and you have yourself a very nice ls-2 wanna be .

matta

Tailon. wrote fort777 has dpdt latching foot switch for R47 , 9v relays (3dpdt) about 10 bucks , 6 jack plugs around 40 bucks or so , and a 9v battery clip a little vero board and a nice metal box (around 60 bucks) and you have yourself a very nice ls-2 wanna be .

True, but what happens in the case of a dead battery or power jack shorting out? Esp. if you are using it as your effects loop, either effects are on or off? Depending on how the switch latches... I understand that essentially the LS-2 works on a similar premise, though me thinks they use FET switching.

It is why I bought and took back my BOSS ABY box, same stupid FET switching and BUFFER... was told by the sales person it was passive and the 9VDC power jack was just for the LED's... wrong.

In the case of a mechanical 4PDT switch the 9VDC power is ONLY required for the LED's, in the event of a power issue, the loops will continue to work, awesome!

Ok firstly, it is not my switch. Secondly, the entire mushroom head is a latching actuator. As I said, I did my homework.

Graeme, apologies, nothing was meant by saying YOUR switch, just meant 'yours' in that you pointed it out, being your idea/discovery etc. Nice to know that the entire head is the pressed/depressed (must be one sad switch, LOL!), and again I see the value in it, but for the MI (musical instrument) market pricing would put it out of reach of the 'average' user.

Cheers

Matt

FenderBender

matta wrote Graeme, apologies, nothing was meant by saying YOUR switch, just meant 'yours' in that you pointed it out, being your idea/discovery etc. Nice to know that the entire head is the pressed/depressed (must be one sad switch, LOL!), and again I see the value in it, but for the MI (musical instrument) market pricing would put it out of reach of the 'average' user.

No worries mate, no offence taken ?
It is k*k expensive, definitely not for the average user ?

G

Shawnvs

Does that not mean that someone here can make a thing similar to the octaswitch?

FenderBender

@Shawn - I am busy looking at an alternative to the octaswitch. I have a few things on the go right now and hope to get to it early next week.

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