adr1aan
Hi,
I really want to build my own guitar. I got a plan from the inter-web (imperial ☹) will convert with the help of google.
So it's a Gibson Melody Maker, looks simple enough.
Was hoping to glean some of your experience in this regard, pitfalls, etc.
Best Regards
V8
Goooood luck,
Best thread I've seen recently was lapdawg's epic :
http://www.guitarforum.co.za/setup-mods-and-repair/attempt-to-get-close-to-a-'59-burst-replica/
Similar enough to get ya started - sure lapdawg will have mentioned the places he went to for gibson specific info.
I reckon the most irritating thing (for me as a hacker) : is sourcing what you need compared to ease you'd be able to in the US or UK. Surprisingly useful are the fb groups "SA Music Store" and "Revolution Music Group", one seems to be able to find *almost* everything locally.
briang-telkomsa-net
:dance:
good one Adr1aan
Brastep
Go for it! In addition to the internet, a real, made-of-paper book that you can keep at hand in your workshop is a good investment.
adr1aan
Sadly no progress yet. I have been reading a lot and looked at loads of videos. I have my plan printed, and have an idea of all the items I need.
I have found a replacement bridge for the wrap around bridge the plans shows so I feel comfortable that it is do-able.
Wood:
This is a first attempt and I thought of using pine before using more expensive wood. My reasoning is that it would be easier the 2nd time around, and I would be able to transfer the hardware to a new build once I have experience.
Hardware:
Terry Distributors have sent me a price list, and I should be able to get buy without importing anything.(I think)
Meanwhile I am slowly progressing through a grade 1 Mel bay book. This is probably the best decision after months of fiddling with this and that.
Keep well all.
May the frets be with you
deebee
If you use pine, stick to SA pine NOT Oregon pine, you'll need a block and tackle to lift the geetar. SA pine is light and easy to work with, and works well. Use Mahogany, Rhodesian teak, saligna, pauwlina for the neck, or something even more exotic if you feel the need. Use similar wood for the fretboard. Go for it, you'll land up playing your home made jobbie all of the time, it's very satisfying playing an axe that you created.
lapdawg
Tip 1: Read build threads - lots of them. Take what's useful, ignore what isn't. TDPRI has some great threads on them. lots of pedantic detail. That's what you need to work out how to do it.
Tip 2: Get yourself a robosander from StewMac & a quality 1/2" copy bit. Spiral are the best.
This stuff you will use for every thing.
If you're in Cape Town, contact me for the wood, I can give good blanks in good wood - Honduras Mahogany, Swamp Ash, Korina, a full range of rosewoods to choose from etc.
Wizard
Lapdawg is the real deal.
Just hang on his every word and you'll be fine.
Ignore his advice at your peril.
Be astonished that he offers wood with the word "honduras" in the name.
singemonkey
Wizard wrote:
Lapdawg is the real deal.
Just hang on his every word and you'll be fine.
Ignore his advice at your peril.
Be astonished that he offers wood with the word "honduras" in the name.
+1
Nitebob
singemonkey wrote:
Wizard wrote:
Lapdawg is the real deal.
Just hang on his every word and you'll be fine.
Ignore his advice at your peril.
Be astonished that he offers wood with the word "honduras" in the name.
+1
+2
adr1aan
Thanks for all the replies, have been distracted lately...nothing else matters...anyway, that robosander I have read about, is it available in SA? what is the make?
My biggest concern is the neck. BUT I have read a lot about crafting a neck with many different ways of doing it, I have not made up my mind but have decided to use a multi layer approach for the neck, 4 or so side profiles glued together for angle etc.
I have recently read that eddie van halen used to flatten his neck at the back, for playability, anybody have any experience with this? does it not weaken the neck?
anyway,
"use the frets Luke"
lapdawg
I think Stewmac are the only people who stock the Robosander.
Its not a ridiculous idea to design and make your own - if you have the time and inclination.
adr1aan
Morning,
Tork Craft sells a drum sander kit from 1/2" - 2" would this work the same as a robosander? I know it needs the guide at the bottom.
lapdawg
adr1aan wrote:
Morning,
Tork Craft sells a drum sander kit from 1/2" - 2" would this work the same as a robosander? I know it needs the guide at the bottom.
It's different. These have no guide. It could be modded. An overhead pin router type rig would do it. i.e. attach the guide to the table on the drill press and line it up with the sanding drum. ....gives some ideas!
G-Man
If I can build a bass then anyone can. Good luck!
adr1aan
lapdawg wrote:
adr1aan wrote:
Morning,
Tork Craft sells a drum sander kit from 1/2" - 2" would this work the same as a robosander? I know it needs the guide at the bottom.
It's different. These have no guide. It could be modded. An overhead pin router type rig would do it. i.e. attach the guide to the table on the drill press and line it up with the sanding drum. ....gives some ideas!
Took me a bit to visualise that idea, but it makes sense.
Thank you
adr1aan
Hi,
What glue should I use? is there different types for different parts?
Fumblefingers
The Stewmac website has some pretty good build and repair videos, and advice is given there about what glue to use. In the videos he makes pretty regular use of Titebond, which is available locally. It is brought in by Permoseal, and repackaged as Alcolin Professional Wood Glue - the bottle is red and yellow.
Wizard
I've made a few bodies that came out ok without a robosander.
It sounds like a really good tool; but don't snooker your project because you can't get one bit.
There's always more than one right answer
adr1aan
Wizard wrote:
I've made a few bodies that came out ok without a robosander.
It sounds like a really good tool; but don't snooker your project because you can't get one bit.
There's always more than one right answer
Was thinking the same thing, I am a little worried that with all the tool improv the results will suffer. I think I have all the tools required at this point to do a decent job.
I have run into another problem ☹: My plan says 1:1 scale, and thus it is quite big and prints on 15 A4 pages, and when you try to put these together the result is not accurate according to the measurements. :'(
I will have to go to a printing shop to have it printed on a plotter.
I then have a next question: If the scale is 1:1 can I assume to work on the plan or must I still measure?
