Bridge Question

Kaasdief

I have a entry level Yamaha F310. The more larney guitars have intonation compensated saddles, either plastic or bone. On my guitar it is a straight piece of plastic with a radius that sits at a angle. Understand, I am still to much of a novice to tell the difference in sound between the two saddles, but I like to fiddle with stuff. I am just thinking if the more expensive guitars benefit from a compensated saddle so would mine? The saddle seem like such a cheap part of the guitar, why did Yamaha not just pop one into the F310 as well? Is the FG series saddle something I could just buy? Would there be any merit in changing the saddle?

Nitebob

I have a cheapy Cort and even that has a compensated saddle.

Before you fiddle, check the intonation: Make sure the string is in tune 100% and then capo at the 12th fret and check again. If all is correct, don't touch...

Or I wouldn't. Yamaha makes better guitars than I do...

DaFiz

Take the old saddle along with you to the guitar shop when buying a new one.
There are so many factors to consider (length, breadth, radius etc)
You might not find a compensated saddle to fit in the slot and the intonation of the individual strings might not match with just any saddle.
Yamaha have already made the calculation and angled the saddle accordingly.
Leave it be ?

Shibbibilybob

If you would like to replace your saddle, I would recommend staying far far away from guitar shops.

It'd only be worth doing if you had a luthier make you a new saddle (and ideally a nut too) out of quality bone or Tusq (my preference).
The new saddle is likely to cost you a few hundred rand, if a luthier has to carve it, and should be done as part of a set up to make sure the intonation is spot on.

Whilst I wouldn't say this is necessary, I can pretty much guarantee that (done right) it'll improve the sound of your guitar significantly (unless it's already rocking a Tusq saddle hahah)

DaFiz

Shibbibilybob wrote: If you would like to replace your saddle, I would recommend staying far far away from guitar shops.

It'd only be worth doing if you had a luthier make you a new saddle (and ideally a nut too) out of quality bone or Tusq (my preference).
The new saddle is likely to cost you a few hundred rand, if a luthier has to carve it, and should be done as part of a set up to make sure the intonation is spot on.

Whilst I wouldn't say this is necessary, I can pretty much guarantee that (done right) it'll improve the sound of your guitar significantly (unless it's already rocking a Tusq saddle hahah)

On an entry level Yamaha F310 ? ???

Nitebob

DaFiz wrote:
Shibbibilybob wrote: If you would like to replace your saddle, I would recommend staying far far away from guitar shops.

It'd only be worth doing if you had a luthier make you a new saddle (and ideally a nut too) out of quality bone or Tusq (my preference).
The new saddle is likely to cost you a few hundred rand, if a luthier has to carve it, and should be done as part of a set up to make sure the intonation is spot on.

Whilst I wouldn't say this is necessary, I can pretty much guarantee that (done right) it'll improve the sound of your guitar significantly (unless it's already rocking a Tusq saddle hahah)
On an entry level Yamaha F310 ? ???

Even a Citigolf handles better, with better quality tyres on...

DaFiz

Nitebob wrote:
DaFiz wrote:
Shibbibilybob wrote: If you would like to replace your saddle, I would recommend staying far far away from guitar shops.

It'd only be worth doing if you had a luthier make you a new saddle (and ideally a nut too) out of quality bone or Tusq (my preference).
The new saddle is likely to cost you a few hundred rand, if a luthier has to carve it, and should be done as part of a set up to make sure the intonation is spot on.

Whilst I wouldn't say this is necessary, I can pretty much guarantee that (done right) it'll improve the sound of your guitar significantly (unless it's already rocking a Tusq saddle hahah)
On an entry level Yamaha F310 ? ???
Even a Citigolf handles better, with better quality tyres on...

Specially if you're competing with Ferraris ona race track ?

Shibbibilybob

Yeah man.
Fundamentally, it's all about a string vibrating. The two end points of the vibrating string would be the nut and the saddle, or if fretted. the fret and the saddle. Everything after the vibrating string is a result of the vibrating string.
How the guitar sounds is dependent on how the top vibrates. How the top vibrates is dependent on how the vibration of the string is transferred to the top, which is done through the saddle and then through the bridge.

A bridge is a bit tough to replace, being glued on to the top, but a nut and a saddle made of a a substance that transfers vibrations well, that's probably the ideal area to upgrade an acoustic guitar as it's easy to install and replace, with little risk (you can always go back to your old nut and saddle) and it is the point in the puzzle where an upgrade can have the largest effect.

Yes, even on a Yamaha 310 for sure...in fact, especially on a lower end model, as they're less likely to have nice saddles and nuts as stock hardware.`

Nitebob

DaFiz wrote:
Nitebob wrote:
DaFiz wrote:
Shibbibilybob wrote: If you would like to replace your saddle, I would recommend staying far far away from guitar shops.

It'd only be worth doing if you had a luthier make you a new saddle (and ideally a nut too) out of quality bone or Tusq (my preference).
The new saddle is likely to cost you a few hundred rand, if a luthier has to carve it, and should be done as part of a set up to make sure the intonation is spot on.

Whilst I wouldn't say this is necessary, I can pretty much guarantee that (done right) it'll improve the sound of your guitar significantly (unless it's already rocking a Tusq saddle hahah)
On an entry level Yamaha F310 ? ???
Even a Citigolf handles better, with better quality tyres on...
Specially if you're competing with Ferraris ona race track ?

For those of us who can't afford Ferrarri's, we get the best performance we can from Citigolfs ?

V8

Nitebob wrote: Even a Citigolf handles better, with better quality tyres on...

Possibly the most irritating thing at a track day...Golf 1 + slicks = more persistent than a Jack Russel. >☹

On topic - if the guitar works for you & it's a keeper, then a upgraded nut & bridge makes sense - & then you can compensate the saddle if it helps with intonation. I've replaced a few nuts & bridges on my nylons (entry & mid level ones) with either bone or tusq nuts and I've never really thought it was a night and day difference. A little more projection/clarity/sustain, sure - but it's never been a revelation.

Unlike a new set of strings (or a different brand). So, I usually try and find a set of string that works on a specific guitar. To my ears finding a set of string that suit an acoustic instrument, has more impact than bridge/saddle upgrades.

Edit - perhaps this is particular to nylons, I stay well away from steel string acoustics - we do not get along :?

Nitebob

[/quote]
On topic - if the guitar works for you & it's a keeper, then a upgraded nut & bridge makes sense
[/quote]
:yup:

Kaasdief

Thank you for all the response! I like my first guitar a lot, she deserves only the best. If there is a outside chance of even better sound then this is what have to be done ?

DaFiz

I do understand the concept of improving the guitar's sound, however, the cost of getting a luthier to fit a new bridge and carve special compensated saddle and nut from bone or tusq must surely cost more than the guitar itself is worth, while the improvement will not be significant enough to justify the expense.
To spend that much I would rather upgrade to a better guitar.
I'm not saying the Yamaha F310 is a bad guitar at all.
I absolutely love the F310 and would add one to my collection anyday, but I would leave it as is and live with it.
A simple lesson from me to you... You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear. ?

AlanRatcliffe

Any guitar with a cheap plastic nut and saddle will see a lot of improvement from replacing them with something good. Yeah, it can be expensive, but if the guitar is one you're going to keep, it's worth it...

CLIFTON

Hi. I picked up a 1997 F310 a few years ago for R 200. It has a really good action and acceptable tone with decent strings. I would leave well alone.