Washburn 12 weird string buzz

darnoldi

Hey all, hoping for a bit of advice.

My Washburn 12 acoustic is strung traditionally with the bass (thicker strings closer to the top - high E), so thin thick, thin thick, thin thick, thin thick, thin thin, thin thin. from low E to High E.

My problem is that, especially on the A and D strings, if I pick down (thin thick), even on an open string, I am getting string buzz. (unless I pick very softly). If I pick each string individually, or pick both up, there is no buzz.

Is this a setup or technique problem?

Any suggestions on correction would be greatly appreciated. Its a pain having to only pick in one direction, especially on those fast 16th notes.

Many thanks

DAve

AlanRatcliffe

Most likely a set-up issue. 12s are very sensitive to setup.

Firstly, make sure the guitar is at concert pitch - a little flat and the neck relief can change a lot on a 12-string (especially on a mahogany neck). Also, how old are the strings? Old strings can get quite floppy.

Check the relief by holding down the 6th string on both the 1st and 12th frets. There should be at least 1 mm clearance between the top of the 7th fret and the bottom of the string. If not, slack off the truss rod 1/8 - 1/4 turn.

Do that first and come back to me if you don't come right.

darnoldi

Thanks for the reply Alan,

The strings are going on a year old now, so I should probably changed them. They haven't seen much use and are still in excellent 'visible' condition but I know that really doesn't mean that they're still OK.

I have an aversion to changing strings on a 12, I always seem to break the thin G within hours of the change. 8)
I have a couple of sets of Fender dura-tone coated 12-String Light floating around, but I read somewhere that it is recommended to go with mediums on a 12. Something about tone qualities. Any thoughts on that?

The problem does seem to be with the relief though. 1st fret held, clearance at 7th 4mm, 12th fret held, clearance at 7th just under 1mm. Ill give it a tweak this afternoon and report back.

Edit: I realised you meant holding at both frets simultaneously, sorry blonde moment. On the sixth string, the clearance is around 1mm, but on 1st to fourth, the bass strings are touching the 7th fret, so do I need to adjust? My gut says yes, but there is probably a reason you specified 6th only.

Once again, thanks for the response, I am very grateful.

Regards

Dave

AlanRatcliffe

darnoldi wrote: The strings are going on a year old now, so I should probably changed them.

Yup. 3-6 months max. If you want to be able to get a longer lifespan, it's worth spending the extra and getting coated strings though - they're ideal for guitars that don't see much use.

I have an aversion to changing strings on a 12,

Tell me about it - I always leave mine far too long. I was just looking at options to get some locking tuners on my electric 12 (problem is keeping the weight down).

I always seem to break the thin G within hours of the change. 8)

G octaves do that. Replace with a spare one gauge lighter (they're usually the same gauge as your high E, so if that's an 11, go for a 10).

I read somewhere that it is recommended to go with mediums on a 12.

Never go medium on an acoustic 12. Tone improves, but playability goes down and so does the lifespan of the guitar. Usually go one gauge lighter than you would for an acoustic 6.

The other crucial thing for me is the action setup. The nut slots must be cut as low as possible, which makes a world of difference to playability - more so than the bridge side action and with less chance of causing buzz. Bridge side, I groove the saddle for the normal strings so the top of the string is the same height as the octave (so I can hit both strings picking in either direction), but that's not essential.

darnoldi

Thanks Alan, your advice is invaluable.

The other crucial thing for me is the action setup. The nut slots must be cut as low as possible, which makes a world of difference to playability - more so than the bridge side action and with less chance of causing buzz. Bridge side, I groove the saddle for the normal strings so the top of the string is the same height as the octave (so I can hit both strings picking in either direction), but that's not essential.

I have been considering playing around with the action for a while now, It's a bit high at the higher frets to be comfortable, but I've been a bit hesitant to mess with it. Your comments on the nut being set correctly make a lot of sense, but I'm sold on the idea of setting the bridge so the top of the strings are the same hight. I think it will make a huge difference to playability.

Logic tells me that I should get the action sorted before I set the relief, or does it not really make a difference?

Thanks again.

Dave

darnoldi

Unfortunately taking a closer look at the guitar in preparation for the setup, I noticed a crack through all the peg holes on the first row of the saddle. This is now a bit beyond what I am confident in doing myself.

Taken in for professional repairs.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Dave