AlanRatcliffe
The other day I mentioned to a friend that I change my guitar strings when they start to "go soft" (ie: lose tension), rather than when the tone dies or they start to cause intonation or tuning problems (or heaven forbid, break). I can be pretty punishing on strings and like the percussive snappiness of heavy, new strings and the way they fight back, so my critereria for when my strings are old is when they start to lose that quality (which tends to be long before they start losing tone).
It got me wondering: how do you guys judge it's time to change strings? What's your "make or break" (as 'twere) criteria that divides good and bad strings? Tension, tuning, intonation, sound/tone, feel?
Squonk
I used to change strings every month because I read in Guitar Magazines that that was the correct thing to do.
But once you start building a collection of guitars that can prove quite expensive
I love the sound of older strings on my Peavey T-60, so I leave these on until they lose that tone quality.
On my steel string Takamine, I have to change them once a month because they lose that 'brightness' and a lot of my percussive playing is suited to brighter strings.
On the Nylon's I also tend to keep the strings on for a bit longer, but replace when they start sounding dull.
Chocklit_Thunda
NOTHING!!!!!!!!!! ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
I don't play by the rules!! I usually change them when they're old enough to play with small toys without a choking hazard 8) 8) 8)
AlanRatcliffe
Well, I'm getting 3 weeks from my electric strings (.011 - .048 Rotosounds) and 6 weeks from my composite nylons. If Time doesn't permit, I'll stretch that to 4 and 8 weeks respectively (but it irks me).
The cost is one of the reasons I keep the collection small, alongside the time it takes to maintain a big collection in playable condition.
Mixerboy
When the rust becomes too much for me
peterleroux
When I was playing roundwounds on my bass I used to change them annually, whether they needed it or not ? I prefer the sound of dull strings on a bass, and now that I've switched to flatwounds I don't expect to change strings until I break one.
As for guitar, I change them when they rust (electric) or tarnish (acoustic). For instruments that are played seldom, am I better off spending money on coated strings to get a longer use life out of them?
babbalute
When I was playing roundwounds on my bass I used to change them annually, whether they needed it or not I prefer the sound of dull strings on a bass, and now that I've switched to flatwounds I don't expect to change strings until I break one. - See more at:
http://www.guitarforum.co.za/general-discussion/what-makes-you-change-strings/msg254093/?topicseen#msg254093
Agree with you flatwounds last a long time and don't loose the brightness to quickly. Atleast not on my bass. The amp got plenty spare brightness as well if required. Some famous bass teachers swear that you can boil them after a long time of use (only flatwounds I believe) and they go back to (90%) of normal new ones. Read this this weeks again somewhere. I change mine when they start to rust just in case one wants to snap.
AlanRatcliffe
peterleroux wrote:
For instruments that are played seldom, am I better off spending money on coated strings to get a longer use life out of them?
Absolutely. Playing wear is the thing that kills coated strings in the long run, so coated strings on rarely played instruments tend to last for ages - especially tonally.
Mixerboy
Is it possible to get 13 gauge in stainless, has anyone used stainless steel strings, I'm presuming the "tone" and all that isn't much different than anything else?
singemonkey
At the moment I can't afford to change strings as regularly as I should. And I won't pay SA retail prices for strings (more than 2x American retail price - you can argue all day and night, but that kind of price difference creates an overwhelming incentive to get strings elsewhere) so getting strings relies on someone coming out from the states or getting a mate to send them. A bit like when I used to smoke in the UK. I used to smoke rollies until I could get a smuggled carton from SA or Zim.
Economics aside, I like to change strings when the strings have lost their sheen, when they start to lose their top-end sound and, at extremes, when they no longer hold tune from being way too stretched out. Nylons, I keep on for frickin' years. Until they sound dead as Dimaggio.
But one guitar has a burr on the saddle that claims strings so often it gets more regular changes. But that guitar's on probation until I can get the bridge to someone with a fine enough file >☹
peterleroux
babbalute wrote:
.. Some famous bass teachers swear that you can boil them after a long time of use (only flatwounds I believe) and they go back to (90%) of normal new ones...
I've made roundwound soup often, but I found it better to just keep them clean with a cloth. Boiling makes them too bright for my ear, and they 'die' again pretty quickly
AlanRatcliffe
singemonkey wrote:
But one guitar has a burr on the saddle that claims strings so often it gets more regular changes. But that guitar's on probation until I can get the bridge to someone with a fine enough file >☹
An emery board works too. Water paper wrapped around a thin rod also works in a pinch. ?
Mixerboy wrote:
Is it possible to get 13 gauge in stainless, has anyone used stainless steel strings, I'm presuming the "tone" and all that isn't much different than anything else?
Flatwounds with a wound 3rd or roundwounds? Steel are generally harder feeling and a bit brighter. Wear frets faster too...
Keira-WitherKay
i own about 8 guitars ....... let me add at the moment ?
and since i do gig i change strings about every 5 to 6 shows on my 2 gig guitars leave the rest i tend to just leave for ages till i want to gig the guitar then i change the strings .....
for me tone is not so much the issue but breakage ....and dare i tempt fate and say since i started the regime of changing strings every 5/6 shows i have never broken a string onstage ....
and tonaly since i change strings so often i always get nice string tone ....
and yes strings are expensive but if you a pro player they also a tax writeoff as consumables .... ? there's an upside to everything
Mixerboy
Alan Ratcliffe wrote:
singemonkey wrote:
But one guitar has a burr on the saddle that claims strings so often it gets more regular changes. But that guitar's on probation until I can get the bridge to someone with a fine enough file >☹
An emery board works too. Water paper wrapped around a thin rod also works in a pinch. ?
Mixerboy wrote:
Is it possible to get 13 gauge in stainless, has anyone used stainless steel strings, I'm presuming the "tone" and all that isn't much different than anything else?
Flatwounds with a wound 3rd or roundwounds? Steel are generally harder feeling and a bit brighter. Wear frets faster too...
Roundwound with a wound 3rd, I've checked around but couldn't find any in 13's
Chabenda
Unfortunately mine have to last me for months. I used my Strat last night at a practice, the second time that I have used it this year, and was quite disappointed with the dull sounding, wound strings.
Wouldn't it be nice if we could afford to change them every month.
Bob-Dubery
I've never thought about WHY I change when I do, but the first thing I notice after I change is the slight extra tension that Alan refers to. That and the brighter sound - but that usually fades pretty quickly.
I use coated strings. I find that they are a good economic deal because the extra life you get exceeds the difference in price. Also I don't like the tone of a brand new string, but I don't like the dull sound of old strings either. I find with Elixirs they lose the new string brightness quite quickly but then the loss of treble seems to plateau out and they don't get duller until many months go past.
But I SHOULD change on the feel, I think. That's what I notice (and like) when I put the new strings on.
singemonkey
Alan Ratcliffe wrote:
singemonkey wrote:
But one guitar has a burr on the saddle that claims strings so often it gets more regular changes. But that guitar's on probation until I can get the bridge to someone with a fine enough file >☹
An emery board works too. Water paper wrapped around a thin rod also works in a pinch. ?
What about for a .10 gauge high E string saddle? Emery board won't fit in there. Certainly coarser sand-paper doesn't. Any advice?
PeteM
When they lose their brightness.
AlanRatcliffe
singemonkey wrote:
What about for a .10 gauge high E string saddle? Emery board won't fit in there. Certainly coarser sand-paper doesn't. Any advice?
You'd be surprised how often smoothing the outside of the saddle solves problems - it's not always the groove itself that's to blame, but metal from the groove that has extruded outwards.
You can do a lot with just fine waterpaper and your fingers/nails too. The grooves on the saddle shouldn't be very deep and for the most part are fairly wide so it's usually possible to get a folded piece of fine water paper most of the way in.
arjunmenon
Alan Ratcliffe wrote:
peterleroux wrote:
For instruments that are played seldom, am I better off spending money on coated strings to get a longer use life out of them?
Absolutely. Playing wear is the thing that kills coated strings in the long run, so coated strings on rarely played instruments tend to last for ages - especially tonally.
+1. A mutual friend converted me to Elixir nanowebs sometime last year and i haven't looked back since.
The bonus has been that even with regular use (i.e. 6 - 9 hrs per week) they've lasted well (been 8 months & 1 week since the last string change)
