Ray wrote
Bob, when you say a solid top, does that mean without the join down the middle like I see in Ibanez AEL series?
No. You'll always see that join. When I say "solid" I mean "not laminated". Laminated back and sides are not the end of the world, but a solid top does make a difference.
If you look at the edges of the soundhole you will either see continuous grain if it's solid top, or the laminations. Unless, of course, you're buying something that's been sprayed with a solid colour. Then you should ask - an honest salesperson will give an honest answer.
As regards the join down the middle, makers usually can't find a piece big enough for the top of a single acoustic guitar, so they will use two pieces half as wide, or take one piece half as wide and split it down the middle. Nothing wrong with that, and if it's done properly they "book match" the two halves and that has a pleasing aesthetic effect.
Somebody mentioned rosewood sides... I think we're now getting into the territory of personal taste. Most makers of quality acoustics offer options in the tone wood (back and sides) because it does make a difference. Some players like mahogony because it's "punchier" than rosewood. Let your ear be your guide. It may help to whittle things down to a short list and then ask somebody in the shop to play the short-listed guitars while you listen.
One last thing about solid tops... they do require a little more care, especially if you live on the highveld where the winters are very dry. A humidifier to put in the case would be a good purchase. Guitars with laminate tops are far less troubled by humidity changes.
As a rule, and especially in the price range you are looking at, I'd prioritise sound, playability and quality of fittings (tuners etc) ahead of flash finishes.
As regards prices paid in shops... find out what it includes. Some shops will just sell you the guitar in a cardboard box. Some may include a gig bag or hard case. You should get some kind of bag or case to protect your instrument. Some stores may have done a basic set up (adjusted the neck, checked the intonation etc) whilst others may sell it as it came out the crate.
My guitar teacher instructs his young pupils to go to a specific shop because the guitars there are all reasonably set up and thus will have good intonation, stay in tune and so on. That shop is Andy McGibbons. There are, of course, other good, honest shops around. I am surprised at the remarks about Andy's shop in this thread, in my experience they have always been straight up guys and offer good service and I've never had to wring a discount out of them. The staff there are not paid on a commision basis and so they have no incentive to wring every last cent out of the customer.
If you are taking lessons then ask your teacher. He will have seen a lot of people buy a lot of guitars and will have ideas about which shops or brands to avoid. And he may get a discount at some shops.
Electronics cost money. If you don't need them then you might save money by buying a guitar without them. If you find a guitar you like but it has no electronics then ask about the cost of having them fitted. This may cost less than you think, and with a lot of the after-market kit there is no need to cut big holes in the sides.
Once again, consider 2nd hand instruments. A Taylor Big Baby would retail for about 5k, but I picked up a good second hand one for 3.
