Build log

MikeM · 2008-11-21T19:51:54+00:00

Hey guys So I've had tons and tons of ideas for the past few weeks, but the first one I've acted on is this... I'm gonna build a guitar. From intensive personal debating on the woods to use, today I bought myself enough wood to make 2x poplar bodies, and 2x ash bodies. You WILL NOT believe the insanely beautiful grain on the ash! Omg clear finish for definite! Anyway, so far I've planed the wood, gosh hardwood is HARD! And glueing myself 1x poplar blank. Doing a second blank tomorrow using a different glue! All in all, really fun, and looks cool so far! Cheers Mike! P.S. Pics to follow ?

MikeM

Great ? Glad to see it's at least had a positive influence on someone ?

Go for it, I mean what's there to loose really, the knowledge about the instrument and the experience you gain is priceless ?

Gearhead

I would strongly recommend against bolting up a SG neck. Just look at the distance and width of material between the neck pickup and the neck; virtually nothing. That's why set SG necks break off so often and it's also why no one tries to bolt it on. Even if you get it to string tension without falling apart, it would not sustain at all ?

Let's be honest: guitar building is a lot more about engineering skill than about any arty farty stuff. To prove this point: just google a pic of Bo Diddley's guitar and listen to his tone. The thing looks distinctly underdesigned from a shape point of view yet it sounds terrific (at least it does in his hands).

Admittedly there's a lot we do not yet understand about the predictability of tone but there's a lot we do. If we stop to think for a second ?

MikeM

Thanks for the advice.

If I do do it, considering it'd be a 25.5 scale, the body would be tweaked too. Like I said, I'll also be making my own pick guards so I'll adjust according to my needs.

Once again, thanks for the heads up.

MikeM

Oh no...

Made most of my templates and such, but just started routing a little and I seem to be taking small bits off my plywood templates... The bit also catches every now and again.

Anyone know much about using routers on hardwood? ☹

Thanks guys
Mike

LMinnie

see if you can find a table that you can mount the router in.
its easy to work that way(i think)

MikeM

I've seen some guys use tables, but I've seen many guys use hand helds too. I think I'm doing something wrong. possibly trying to cut too much at once, or cutting at too high a speed, or the plywood isn't strong enough...

Gearhead

Bring your stuff & gear, we'll have a look. I' PM you with the details.

MikeM

Thanks a ton man!!!

Gearhead

... we did in the end forget to put the router chuck back on the router...you left it here...drop by to get it back...not much happens without router (except maybe for jigsaw outline)...cheers

For others: MikeM has glued up two and two body halves, his next step will be to jigsaw the outline up to 3-5mm from its final posion.

The problem with the bit catching can be cured by doing 5 things:
1. do not cut more than 2-3mm depth at a time in hardwood and twice that in softer stuff (e.g. Alder)
2. use the rev control of the router (if it does not have that, it's almost Xmas) to take it down to the speed you need. If it feels out of control, it's not going to make guitars (well, maybe ESP types ?)
3. use a template follower that mounts onto the base of the router, through which the bit sticks out. Get a bit that only just clears on the inside of the follower shaft. This way, you get to 1-2mm from the edge of the template, leaving yourself some flesh. After reaching the depth, you rout the sides with the ball bearing follower bit.
4. cut against the direction of the rotation of the bit so it forces the router towards the template. If you can, do not cut off more than half the diameter of the router bit (this obviously does not apply to pickup cavities since you need to 'plunge' into those)
5. cut 'with' the grain of the wood or use spiral flute cutters instead of straight ones (both kinda hard advice to follow) to minimise bouncing.

Shredder3211

I don`t know anything bout woodwork, but i think it looks amazing - opening pandora`s box if u ask me, if i had to get into building guitars on top of playing around with all the other guitar stuff i would never leave my room....ocd galore! ?

Gearhead

It's about what you're after: play well and you'll get groupies. Build well and you'll get money. The rest is the same.
(I'm married)

Shredder3211

Mmmmh.....well i think i disagree with that statement - ???

MikeM

Thanks a ton for the help GH!

Yes I remembered as soon as I got home!!!! I did the first set of cuts today ? Will do a little routing tomorrow, leaving myself loads of space ?

Expect pics soon!

MikeM

Did some routing today, issues

Direction. Any specific direction I must rout? I remember seeing a diagram somewhere sometime, asked if anyone had something similar but got few replies, I did however find a diagram in a book GearHead lent me.

However, in the manual and other sources, I read you should rout clockwise around your shape on the outside, and anti-clockwise if on the inside, or rout out from the surface, and not inwards?

Is that correct?

And my second issue is depth. I was using the template base thing, basically a ring around the bit, but as I lower the bit, the chuck/nut holding the bit gets closer to, and touches the templating plate. I've only reached about 15mm down... Any tips on what to do now?

Thanks ?

Gearhead

Hi Mike,

the balance here is tear outs vs. 'jumping'. The router rotates clockwise looking down onto the material. If you keep the wood to the left while pushing the router away from you, the wood wants to push the router back to you, which gives nice control. Work the other way, and the wood actually pulls the router forward, which is a lot harder to control.
If you rout anticlockwise around your body and start at the bridge side strap button, you will have nice controlled motion but run the risk of getting tear outs. What happens is that your router bit actually pushes the grain of the wood away from its neighbours, causing the wood to split. This will not be so bad in softer short grained wood but for instance ash is a bugger in this respect. It also differs whether you cut deep - a little more than haf your cutter diameter is ideal for f@&king up a body while 2mm cut with 16mm cutter is rather safe.

So to answer your question: routing around like shown in the picture is the way to go, but be careful not to let things literally run out of hand. For best results leave yourself a last routing cut of about 1mm entirely anticlockwise. After that it's sanding time, but leave that until you've got all the rest done. You may for instance make a 'beer belly' body contour makign your tele a little less authentic and a little more comfortable.

About the depth of routing: first step is to take a thinner template than the 10mm you are using. Second is to go out and find a nice long shanked long cutter sorta like 16-20mm diameter. Third is (once you're deep enough) to start using the 'copy down' bit with the bearing on the shank side.
For routing around the contour you can use the 'copy up' bit with the body flipped upside down - if the flip side is completely parallel. These bits are easier to come by since they're used in flooring.

MikeM

Awesome thanks

I see yea, used a thin bit now so there's ABOUT a 4-5mm gap around the entire body.

Ok will get some plexi tomorrow then ? And will stop off at Mica again and look if they have something. Like the one I forgot at your place?

Oh I see, got a couple of them too!

Thanks again man ? Your advice is really helping!

P.S Oh noes! Wisdoms coming out on Tuesday!

MikeM

Gotta go to town and buy a bearing for my other bit ?

Lethe

most impressive. Hope it all works out well!!! looks like fun!

MikeM

Tons of fun ? Finished the one side now ?

MikeM

Ok finished the shape FINALLY! Sanded a little to get rid of some routing imperfections, but I've noticed the lines are smooth :/ Like slightly wobbley. Any ideas? Will post pics now now.

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