It's a matter of TASTE! (for the twangheads)

nicovlogg

So I'm building a thinline tele, if everything goes well, within 2 months. Busy buying some parts, and what I need is a sort of stylistic opinion. I'm debating 2 different styles of control knobs and placements. Either Gibson style or more like the Fender JA-90 (which I find delicious)

Also - binding? And elbow contour? On a thinline? Let me know what you think! ? I don't even know if I have the skills to do that yet.... ?

P.S. yes, that is a strat headstock. 8)

BobC

Both look tasty but I would personally choose the option with the binding and the silver controls.

Have you tried a mock-up using black binding and a black Fender logo? Just a thought.

Also, what program did you use for those designs? They look awesome.

AlanRatcliffe

Binding's not a problem, but proper Thinlines (two large cavities) don't take well to forearm contouring (rib cut's fine though - as long as you don't want it too deep). You can add a forearm contour with the Warmoth hollow Tele style bodies, which are tonally a bit more balanced anyway. If the Thinline thing is key, then consider going without binding and a larger radius on the edges (more like a Strat than a Tele) - that helps a lot.

The second control layout is more to my taste (can't abide switches on the upper bout - I knock 'em) - but it's very much a personal preference.

I'm presuming mahogany neck with ebony board?

AlanRatcliffe

Oh, and throw away those Gibson bits and slap on a Bigsby and a pair of TV Jones Classics. Now that's a guitar... ?

nicovlogg

BobC wrote: Both look tasty but I would personally choose the option with the binding and the silver controls.

Have you tried a mock-up using black binding and a black Fender logo? Just a thought.

Also, what program did you use for those designs? They look awesome.

Something called Kisekae - http://www.yajimastringworks.com/tct/yswtct-kisekae-e.asp Really cool site for quick mockups!

Alan Ratcliffe wrote: Oh, and throw away those Gibson bits and slap on a Bigsby and a pair of TV Jones Classics. Now that's a guitar... ?

Oh Puhh-leease! ? Bigsby? When I have a Gotoh 510 alumimiun wraparound bridge... not much chance!

(As for TV jones vs. P90s.. it was a consideration, but single coil tone has never been beaten in my opinion.)

Alan Ratcliffe wrote: Binding's not a problem, but proper Thinlines (two large cavities) don't take well to forearm contouring (rib cut's fine though - as long as you don't want it too deep). You can add a forearm contour with the Warmoth hollow Tele style bodies, which are tonally a bit more balanced anyway. If the Thinline thing is key, then consider going without binding and a larger radius on the edges (more like a Strat than a Tele) - that helps a lot.

Definitely doing a rib cut, if only for the luthery practice, and going to try find more info on the Warmoth style bodies then. Not much of a fan of larger radius edges - makes a tele look fat to me.

Alan Ratcliffe wrote: I'm presuming mahogany neck with ebony board?

Ebony on Walnut.. With ss frets and oil finish. ???

Mr-M

nicovlogg wrote: Definitely doing a rib cut, if only for the luthery practice, and going to try find more info on the Warmoth style bodies then. Not much of a fan of larger radius edges - makes a tele look fat to me.

On the edge radius thing, I would have to heartily recommend a larger edge radius as the extra comfort makes a huge difference IMO. I have one of these and while it sounds fantastic, the edge radius of the '50s style slab body makes it feel like a torture implement on the body and on the forearm after playing it for a long while:

My other T-style guitar has a much rounder edge radius which makes it way more comfortable playing over longer periods. I do wish both of them had a rib cut though.

nicovlogg

Mr T wrote: On the edge radius thing, I would have to heartily recommend a larger edge radius as the extra comfort makes a huge difference IMO. I have one of these and while it sounds fantastic, the edge radius of the '50s style slab body makes it feel like a torture implement on the body and on the forearm after playing it for a long while

Yeah, I hear you. My #1 tele is closer to 1/4" radius instead of the 1/8" vintage one, so I know it makes a difference. But that's visually still miles from the strat style of 1/2"
Forearm contours on a tele are your friend... ?

Mr-M

nicovlogg wrote: Yeah, I hear you. My #1 tele is closer to 1/4" radius instead of the 1/8" vintage one, so I know it makes a difference. But that's visually still miles from the strat style of 1/2"
Forearm contours on a tele are your friend... ?

Got to agree with you on the forearm contour as well. It might make your own build much harder to pull off though, so the edge radius might end up being the only practical way to enhance the comfort. Hopefully the contours work out for your build. ?

nicovlogg

Here's one with black binding. Also Fender styled F-holes rather than Gibson ones - have to say I think the Gibson ones are slightly more appealing.

Alan, or anyone else who knows: how on earth do you get a neck joint like this? Is the pocket longer, or is it reinforced?

Gearhead

Heel contour: You add a little balls and carve away at the back of the body, that's really all there is to it 8)
Arm contour: it would help a lot with the drop top to leave a single rib of support from the center of the contour pointing towards the bridge. You shape it with the sides to the desired contour and use it while glueing to clamp the top to a defined position, keeping both radius and angle correct. If you don't, I reckon the top will (because it tries to straighten the middle of the bend) tend to slip off the sides and make for nice gaps no binding will close.
Binding and radius: why not make the back radiused and the top bound? Get the best of both worlds and there's no rules against it.

nicovlogg

Gearhead wrote: You add a little balls and carve away at the back of the body, that's really all there is to it 8)

A LOT of balls methinks ??? Reckon African Mahogany is strong enough for that? :-\

AlanRatcliffe

nicovlogg wrote: Oh Puhh-leease! ? Bigsby? When I have a Gotoh 510 alumimiun wraparound bridge... not much chance!/quote]
Have a look at the Graph Tech Resomax wraparound - Mojo and I fitted one to his PRS Singlecut (which had a nice aluminium version). Both of us liked the result, plus it's intonatable and very nice under the hand.

(As for TV jones vs. P90s.. it was a consideration, but single coil tone has never been beaten in my opinion.)
I hear you, but I prefer 'Trons to P90s (which lean heavily to mid-focused Gibson tones).

going to try find more info on the Warmoth style bodies then.
This is what their chambered Teles look like inside:

Versus the Thinline style hollow:

If you make either with a thicker cap, there's no reason why you couldn't contour the top though - at the expense of a little resonance.

Ebony on Walnut.. With ss frets and oil finish. ???
Might work - little bit brighter, maybe a few more upper mids too. You're trying to add some high end to offset the body?

nicovlogg

Alan Ratcliffe wrote: If you make either with a thicker cap, there's no reason why you couldn't contour the top though - at the expense of a little resonance.

Might work - little bit brighter, maybe a few more upper mids too. You're trying to add some high end to offset the body?

Hmm.. it's a possibility. This all depends on what I get for the cap. I'm having Barry from Red Ivory trading bring me some nice hardwood pieces and I'll decide from there. Might not even be able to do the drop top with the wood I choose..

Ebony mostly for the feel, walnut for the snappiness. Although I'm not sure how much of that corksniffing I actually believe ?

AlanRatcliffe

nicovlogg wrote: Although I'm not sure how much of that corksniffing I actually believe ?

? I've replaced boards and heard the difference. Don't know walnut as a neck wood, but I'm extrapolating from what I know of it as a body wood. My Woodstock II (LP Special) was all Honduran mahogany (one piece body and two piece neck) with an ebony board and a pair of Antiquity P90s and that had a pretty nice balance.

But if you go with a hardwood cap, you probably won't need the extra brightness from the neck.

Norman86

as for the binding, why not use a masked binding instead of a "normal" binding?

Either way, im sure she'll look grand! you have a very nice concept there!

nicovlogg

Norman86 wrote: as for the binding, why not use a masked binding instead of a "normal" binding?

Guess it's a possibility... Definitely takes a lot of skill though!

Alan Ratcliffe wrote: ? I've replaced boards and heard the difference. Don't know walnut as a neck wood, but I'm extrapolating from what I know of it as a body wood. My Woodstock II (LP Special) was all Honduran mahogany (one piece body and two piece neck) with an ebony board and a pair of Antiquity P90s and that had a pretty nice balance.

But if you go with a hardwood cap, you probably won't need the extra brightness from the neck.

From what I've read, it functions similarly to maple in a neck, read a couple of things to the effect that it's really cool in an LP style guitar to give the upper mids some snap. Well, I've also read that monster cable between my amp's transformer and the wall plug will improve headroom... ?

Norman86

nicovlogg wrote:
Norman86 wrote: as for the binding, why not use a masked binding instead of a "normal" binding?
Guess it's a possibility... Definitely takes a lot of skill though!

Im sure it would be easy for someone like Neon Gecko ?

MikeM

Norman86 wrote:Im sure it would be easy for someone like Neon Gecko ?

Lots of skill costs lots of money ?

nicovlogg

Lots of skill costs lots of money ?

Yep. JUST a paintjob would unfortunately cost more than the whole body