Cool. Think I'm going to have one made up for cheapo here in CT, try the ferrules first and then the tone bar, then for the second build at least I'll have an idea as to what I like.
Ok, time for some more details, as you all must be dying from inquisitive anticipation :?.
Believe it or not wood you see below is Eastern Black Walnut, hand chosen from the 4 suitable planks available at Rarewoods CT ?. But its not the worst, and I'm sure I'll be able to get something decent out of it.
I've investigated watercutting more extensively and the cheapest quote I've got so far is R1100 for the two templates ex material, so I think I'll go with the CNC routering as this seems to be the cheapest and most effective option.
If you haven't guessed from Mikes subtle hints and my display of the inclusion of a cap, I'll be building a 69' Telecaster Thinline ?, for the first body at least. The second is likely to be some variation of the Thinline possibly with different pickups and pickguard/control plate options.
The combination of Walnut and Tele Thinline is quite a unique one, its only been done once before by Fender in the 70's, and there isn't much info available on those, so not sure if people liked it or not. I think the Coldplay guy plays one sometimes, but anyway, I'm hoping for an out the box kind of Tele sound, but mainly a nice sound :?. Some say that Walnut is a very picky wood and I've been affirmed that a semi-hollow would be more forgiving in terms of tone. However, I have absolutely no idea how its going to sound. A lot of people have suggested using a Walnut top on a conventional back, such as mahog, however I've shyed away from that idea as I'd really like to investigate this wood properly.. And as this is a first build and I'm likely to stuff it up, it makes sense to try something outlandish.
Here are some drawings of my templates:
I've added 'wings' on the top template to allow for the router to settle before eating into the neck pocket. The extent of the chambers will be determined by the mass. When I'm happy, I'll stop digging. As it is, I can't see I'll need the chamber behind the bridge as my Walnut isn't as heavy as it could be.
I'm going to have to build my own router table for this exercise. I have two Ryobi R-150 plunge routers that were unfortunately invented before the internet, so I have no pics to show you. They're very simple 1HP routers, 25000 rpm and they don't mind a bit of load. Unfortunately they have 8MM collets, with an adapter for 1/4" bits, so no meaty 1/2" bits unfortunately ☹.
The one has a broken handle and a missing brush and brush cap. This is the one I'll be using for the table. I'll be able to get the brushes relatively easily, but I will have to either source a brush cap, which is an obsolete item, or make one. If it starts to become a problem, I'll borrow the complete one's brush and cap for the mean time.
I've commissioned a router mounting plate of my design to be fashioned from mild steel:
Should be done in a couple of days. All screw holes will be countersunk so as to not get in the way of the substrate. I'll have to cut and carve an opening in the top for the base plate to sit on.
For the top, I'll most likely be using a post form off-cut if I can find one, about 1000 x 600. I'll go to the second hand furniture shop tomorrow to try and find a suitable cheap work table, otherwise I'll buy a 600 x 600 work bench from my dad's shop (Pennypinchers ?). I plan to hinge and prop the post form top for router adjustment and bit replacement.
The first bits I'll be needing are a top bearing trim bit and a bottom bearing trim bit, as single 1/4" inch shank trim bits don't usually come in lengths longer than 1-1/2". I'll also need a forstner bit to eat away the cavity wood. I'll choose a 22mm bit so that I can use this for the jack cup hole too. I'm also hoping to invest in rotary rasp and sanding drum attachments for a drill press. Will make things easier as I don't have a suitable band saw.
That's all for now ?
