Stripping a finish

Ray

I have a MIM stratocaster. I bought it from a forum member a while back and I like the guitar but I dont like the color. So I'm going to do something else. So my plan is to go out today and buy a heat gun. To strip the paint off and then I'll paint it another color. In fact it is going to be a bit of a project guitar becasue I just received my DAllen CS Austin Blues and I'll slap them in while I wait for my other parts to arrive.

Questions:
1. Anyone used a heat gun to strip a guitar before here? What to watch for?
2. Once stripped how the heck do I know what the wood is? Actually, If I have the serial number can I find that out?
3. When I go to work at home office I drive past a place called Chemspec at Olifantsfontein. I think it is their factory. And they sell automotive and boat finishes and all. Nitrocellulose products and waterborne and all I think. Anyone have any experience or knowledge of these guys and their stuff?
4. Do you think it's alright if I tell my wife that she's getting a heatgun for Christmas?

Cheers - Ray

PS what's a good heatgun to get?

Neon-Gecko

1. Heat guns work a treat in stripping old paint. But it is also just as easy to scorch the wood! >☹ If you choose to go this route, then find a heat gun that has an infinite amount of settings, in other words, a wide settable temperature range. Some heat guns have only around three settings, hot... very hot... and something akin to volcanic conditions. I have a Ryobi, which has a heat range from around 50 degrees up to around 600 degrees, and everything in between (the reason I bought it in the first place)

Having said that though, I far prefer to strip the old paint off guitars through good old fashioned sanding, as it is a far safer bet in retaining the condition of the timber. In short, the time and effort saved using a heat gun could so easily be lost, and then some, though having to try and sand out and bleach the scorch marks!

2. To find out what sort of wood was used in the construction, simply take it to a carpenter to be identified, or scour the net for pics.

3. Chemspec manufacture some fine paints. Nitro paint formulas have changed rather drastically since the 60’s, and it is for this reason that we prefer to use twin-pack acrylic paint system. Both systems are available from automotive refinishing supply stores. I’ll discuss the pros and cons of each system in person when you collect your bass.

As to question number 4… I guess that you are on your own there mate, but I wouldn’t be at all surprised if you happen to get a steam iron and ironing board from your loving wife come next Christmas… ?

Zulublues

Hi Ray, if the original paint is in good condition, I would suggest a simple light sand to achieve a key, prime and paint, if you are going for a solid colour. If you want to go sunburst, you will have to strip back to bare wood and then go from there. The poly that was used on MIMs is tough beyond belief. If you don't have to strip, don't. The poly will be a very good base coat / sealer for any solid colour that you spray over it.

Good luck and post pics ! !

guidothepimmp

Ray, while heat guns work well, as has been mentioned above, if not careful you can scorch the lumber, I have used chemical paint stripper to great effect and it doesn't hurt the wood either.

Wood on the strat should be alder. Not the prettiest, thus the solid colour. Be interesting to see how many pieces. Post some pics.

Sanding is great but takes forever.

If it were me, I'd do the chemical stripper. Good luck with the heat gun christmas thing.. LOL

makepeace

Zulublues wrote Hi Ray, if the original paint is in good condition, I would suggest a simple light sand to achieve a key, prime and paint, if you are going for a solid colour. If you want to go sunburst, you will have to strip back to bare wood and then go from there. The poly that was used on MIMs is tough beyond belief. If you don't have to strip, don't. The poly will be a very good base coat / sealer for any solid colour that you spray over it.

Good luck and post pics ! !

Surely this is not the way to go about it? I thought the goal with finishing musical instruments (esp if you're not going the vintage correct nitro route) is to end up with the thinnest film possible, obviously within the realms of whats acceptable re durability. Otherwise you affect the resonance greatly and drown the sound of the guitar.

I've always read on the net about people use chemical strippers to relieve the paint on guitars for refinishing, however, after Wayne crapped me out I definitely wouldn't recommend that - he knows his stuff.

Good luck

Ray

OK thanks everyone. I think the heatgun way is not what I am going to do. So, I'm thinking I'll take the guitar to a paintshop and ask them what chemical to use to get the paint off maybe. But Zulublues you make good point. Becasue I'm thinking I want to paint this solid red. As for the christmas present thing, I thought about it and I am sure the old girl is gonna be a lot more excited about a new spraygun rather than a heatgun.

AlanRatcliffe

Heat guns are a no-no with MIMs - They are made of multiple laminates with a veneer front and back and if you are not careful, you break the glue bond and the body starts falling apart. Plus you can scorch the wood.

If it's a polyester finish (most are), it will basically laugh at a chemical stripper - otherwise I don't have a problem with chemicals if you follow the instructions about cleanup properly.

So my preferred method is a combination of chipping, scraping and sanding. It's a lot of work, but worth it in the long run.

I've used the Chemspec products before (both nitro and polyurethane) and had good results, but a few years ago I found I couldn't get their products anywhere in the Cape, so switched to Plascon nitro, which has been a bit of a nightmare (and they have now stopped making it altogether).

Neon-Gecko

Ray wrote As for the christmas present thing, I thought about it and I am sure the old girl is gonna be a lot more excited about a new spraygun rather than a heatgun.

:roflmao: