Thanks guys, you're of great help. Some specific responses below:
Neon Gecko wrote:
My choice would be the (5/32") 4 mm (Part #: PK116031) Shaft diameter and cutting depth same as above.
Cutting depth is a little short, so you'll have to cut from both sides. I'd go for the 4 mm as that'll allow you some leeway and prevent the plywood from binding to the jig.
Remember this tip when using straight cut bits though, never cut deeper on one pass than the diameter of the bit, example: A 4mm cutting bit - 4 mm depth of cut.
Hope this helps...
That 4mm bit sounds perfect. I didn't realise you get bits than thin. However, that would mean I'd have to go buy myself a router first ?. It's something I've always wanted and maybe this might be the excuse I've always been looking for but, again, it'll be pushing the costs into a different bracket while the intention was always just to do a little backyard DIY project.
Ignoring that for the moment, let's assume I have a router; If you're not supposed to cut deeper than, say 4mm, how do you ensure that consecutive cuts follow exactly the same path? I've never used a router for cutting like this, I've only ever used it to round off the edges of wood (as with a Roman Ogee bit) in which case staying on track is easy, you just follow the edge of the plank. I'm not sure if there is some method with which you can follow not the edge of the plank but an earlier dado to make it deeper (end ultimately all the way through the plank).
I'm not sure if I'm making sense. I mean the plank of wood is 20mm thick. If I can only cut 4mm deep at a time it would mean that I'd have to cut through the wood in 5 passes. How do I make sure that pass 2 follows exactly in the groove left by pass 1? That's not even mentioning the challenge of cutting pass 4 and 5 which would have to be from the other side.
Zulublues wrote:
Hi Dewald, think about using double sided carpet tape to hold the sandwich together while cutting or routing. This way there will be no screw holes. Unfortunately to achieve an accurate clamping jig you will most probably have to cut two sandwiches and finish rout to achieve an accurate male / female jig. You can always build two cases and sell one to defray expenses. I agree with Neon Gecko that a jigsaw will not be accurate enough. Beg, borrow or steal some time with an experienced bandsaw operator. Are there any furniture factories nearby?
Good luck and keep us posted ( with pics, of course !)
Ciao
Thanks. I haven't thought of the double sided carpet tape. But I don't really mind holes in the wood. I was thinking of putting the screws to keep the planks together outside of the template area (in the off cut area). Even if they did go through the main template it would bother me that much either seing as, ultimately, the whole thing will be covered with vinyl anyway.
Having said all that, unless I can get access to a band saw somewhere (which I still think would be first prize), it appears that sandwiching the planks together won't be recommended anyway. If using a router, that would make it way too thick and even if using a jigsaw I get the impression that I'd be better off cutting the four planks separately and not as a sandwiched combination.
I'll put pics up as soon as I get started.
Jacquesg4j wrote:
Hey Deefstes! I'm a little late to jump in so sorry about that! The best option for bending the sides is 3mm MDF (Supawood). Dip in water and you can bend it like you would not believe! 3mm ply is going to give you some nice extended headaches when trying to bend it to fit a Ukulele. Ply wood means ply-wood... Layers of wood glued to each other cross grained ... Meaning the first layer's grain would be "lllll" and the second one "=". NOT nice for bending in small radiums. With the MDF you can just cut your base to shape and then wet your 3mm MDF , glue the sides of your base and staple the 3mm to the base. Another
And as for jig saw vs band saw... Just do it with a jig saw... IT'S A SMALL BAND SAW! You can cut it just as good with either. Just be patient and don't rush.
Thanks Jacques. It seems you never know who's advice you can trust ? The guys at Timber City told me that by wetting the 3mm supawood I would make a mess of it (a bit similar to masonite which was my original plan). At any rate, I bought the 3mm ply and had it cut in the proper strips so I'm sort of committed to that approach now. But I'm not too worried about that. It's not overly expensive and if it breaks I can always go and buy new strips, this time trying supawood.
A part of me is relieved that you reckon that I should use a jigsaw because I have one. It would mean I could get started without having to buy more tools or pay other people to use theirs. Another part of me is even more apprehensive because, of all the people who's offered advice, you are the first one who reckons that a jigsaw will get the job done. ???
I guess, at some point I'm just going to have to make a call on this and get to it. I can ask for advice and debate methods until the cows come home but the guitar case won't build itself. I'm going to try to get started in the next few days and maybe do a nice chunk of work over the weekend. Will keep you guys posted.
