What to use to fill chips in the clear topcoat on an accoustic?

Skylark

What is good to fill chips in the clear topcoat on an acoustic?

I have tried supa-glue which seems to work well but its incredibly hard and very difficult to flatten without coming close to sanding through the surrounding good topcoat.
I have heard nitro cellulose is good for small touch-up repairs
Any thoughts on that or alternatives , tips , hints etc!

The chips I want to fill are up to 0.5mm deep so ideally I'd like something that can easily to fill up the hole , preferably in one go would be perfect ... and quick drying.... and nice and clear , not yellow!

Thanks Guys ?

AlanRatcliffe

If the finish is nitro, then nitro, otherwise superglue is the best thing for most modern finishes.

Either way, you have to build up above the surface and sand down without going through the original finish - I mask off carefully until I finish levelling and start polishing. If necessary, I'll then mask a larger area and spray a couple of extra coats so there is a bit more meat on top of the old finish too.

Skylark

Alan Ratcliffe wrote If the finish is nitro, then nitro, otherwise superglue is the best thing for most modern finishes.

Either way, you have to build up above the surface and sand down without going through the original finish - I mask off carefully until I finish levelling and start polishing. If necessary, I'll then mask a larger area and spray a couple of extra coats so there is a bit more meat on top of the old finish too.

Thanks Alan , is there anything else apart from Super Glue I can experiment with , I tried epoxy but its to yellow or milky or it has air bubbles and super glue i'm finding to hard to work with.

AlanRatcliffe

Get the proper superglue. Thinnest viscosity and a decent brand from a modelling/radio control store. Don't use accelerators or any other additives (affects the clarity) and if the chip is deep, build up gradually leaving a couple of hours between coats. Leave for at least 24 hours before levelling.

Zulublues

Just a tip on sanding your spot repair. Cut your waterpaper into very narrow strips, about 6mm is usually good. Then place the strip over the fill, apply pressure with your finger tip directly over the fill and pull the waterpaper strip through with the other hand. This allows you to control both the pressure and area being sanded.

Good luck with the repairs.

This thread is useless without pics ! !

Skylark

Zulublues wrote Just a tip on sanding your spot repair. Cut your waterpaper into very narrow strips, about 6mm is usually good. Then place the strip over the fill, apply pressure with your finger tip directly over the fill and pull the waterpaper strip through with the other hand. This allows you to control both the pressure and area being sanded.

Good luck with the repairs.

This thread is useless without pics ! !

Thanks for the tips Zulublues
Would love it if someone posted some pics to illustrate how to do this all! ?

slyd

Check out Dan from StewMac, doing exactly this :
http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0040.html

Very similar to doing the superglue . . .
8)

Wizard

slyd wrote Check out Dan from StewMac, doing exactly this :
http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0040.html

That's amazing.
Nice to know there is a cure - makes one worry less about getting the disease.

Skylark

slyd wrote Check out Dan from StewMac, doing exactly this :
http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0040.html

Very similar to doing the superglue . . .
8)

Thanks Slyd that's an awesome link
That's the kind of technique I was thinking of - I have seen it used before but wasn't to sure on the exact technique

Nitebob

Spoke to a guy last night, he showed me some repairs he did on his Bass using nail polish. Fills it up, let it cure properly, sand it down using 1000grit, then uses a "restore" product you buy in some music stores, then apparently a polish available in same.

Skylark

Nitebob wrote Spoke to a guy last night, he showed me some repairs he did on his Bass using nail polish. Fills it up, let it cure properly, sand it down using 1000grit, then uses a "restore" product you buy in some music stores, then apparently a polish available in same.

Hey thats also a excellent idea , nail varnish also comes with a tiny brush incl and it dries fast and hard

StephenG

perhaps another option - not sure though - is the stuff you buy at surf shops for patching small dings and scratches in surfboards.

its a clear resin - varnish type stuff that comes in a small tube - like a toothpaste tube,

and you just squeeze a little out and it dries almost instantly in UV light... well not instantly, but within a few minutes its dry from any daylight UV light.

i've used it a lot on my boards and its always appeared to be clear once dry, just a light sanding to get it level and its done..

Skylark

StephenG wrote perhaps another option - not sure though - is the stuff you buy at surf shops for patching small dings and scratches in surfboards.

its a clear resin - varnish type stuff that comes in a small tube - like a toothpaste tube,

and you just squeeze a little out and it dries almost instantly in UV light... well not instantly, but within a few minutes its dry from any daylight UV light.

i've used it a lot on my boards and its always appeared to be clear once dry, just a light sanding to get it level and its done..

That actually may be a very good option - It'll have good filling properties and sand down/polish very easily
How much is a tube these days?

StephenG

Skylark wrote
StephenG wrote perhaps another option - not sure though - is the stuff you buy at surf shops for patching small dings and scratches in surfboards.

its a clear resin - varnish type stuff that comes in a small tube - like a toothpaste tube,

and you just squeeze a little out and it dries almost instantly in UV light... well not instantly, but within a few minutes its dry from any daylight UV light.

i've used it a lot on my boards and its always appeared to be clear once dry, just a light sanding to get it level and its done..

That actually may be a very good option - It'll have good filling properties and sand down/polish very easily
How much is a tube these days?

cant even remenmber the cost - think it was like R40 or something... but you use so little of it, may as well try get some from surfers you may have already..

slyd

Don't fuss over so many different products bud. Choose either s-glue or clear lacquer (does'nt have to be Nitrocellulose), and follow Dan's photo guide! :?

Both these will result in a clear fix you will be proud of. 8)

*EDIT. Trust me, it workS ?

Skylark

Do you guys reckon Supper Glue will work?
Or is that only for after dessert?
?
http://www.tradekorea.com/e-catalogue/wonjin7511/product-detail/P00050459/Supper%20glue.html

AlanRatcliffe

? For this kind of application, only trust the name brands - Hot Stuff, Satellite City, Bob Smith, etc. Look at the model shops locally - they usually have the better brands. There are a few with online stores.

Skylark

I got some stuff at the Local Model shop - doesn't say low viscosity but they emphatically claimed it was very thin....

Just a heads up to anyone trying this - while NC/lacquer may be easier to work with it does not work well on none NC finishes as it doesn't bond very well to the substrate even if you lightly prepare it by scuffing the surface so it can key on - As Alan said earlier about modern acoustics - Supper Glue!!

StephenG

Skylark wrote Supper Glue!!

dont you think you a little to old to still be eating glue?? ? ? ? ?

Skylark

StephenG wrote
Skylark wrote Supper Glue!!

dont you think you a little to old to still be eating glue?? ? ? ? ?

Never too old!!