Freddy-Bl00D
Hey guys im looking to start advancing with my guitar modding and one day even building skill and i'm looking at routers... But i have no idea where to start? Is there one router that can be used for almost everything (routing pickup cavitys, fretboard inlays, bindings etc.) or is there a different router for each depending on the size of the job? I'm probably gonna strat by just messing around with the router and eventually attempt easy tasks on cheapys as i gain convidence.. But i dont want to buy a crappy router now and have to buy a new one in a few years..
Any advice will be greay
Wizard
You may have just opened Pandora's Box.
Be afraid.
Be very afraid.
Manfred-Klose
thats a big question.
1.routers are dangerous and should be used carefully and in the right way. always wear safety gear.
look around on the internet, search for "jigs", "Router bits" everything related to guitar building to give you an idea.
If you do get one, it would be good to get someone experienced to show you how it works, otherwise you'll damage the machine
Averatu
Wizard wrote
You may have just opened Pandora's Box.
Be afraid.
Be very afraid.
Indeed!!!
I use a router in my business. Having had lots of experience with power tools selling them, I knew what to get. I know guys who own 4 different routers and are still not happy. Static, plunge, wattage, weight?
jeremy-Budgen
I have used routers for 25 years and i am still afraid of them when not used properly.
I have used all the big name brands ELU BOSCH MAKITA etc but the one i would recommend would be the Makita, buy the most powerful one that is available so that you can use it for all the jobs you might want to do with guitar building, but if you want to do just pickup routes and neck routes then go for a mid range one with a 1/2 inch chuck, not a 1/4 inch as if you want to use bigger cutters, they only come in a 1/2 shank, but you can use a 1/4 shanked bit with the collet that converts it from 1/2 to 1/4 or 3/8 but that is not as common.
If you intend to use large bits most of the cutter manufactures will recommend that you use them in a fixed router table, i found that when profiling an outside of a guitar body, it is better to go the router table route and cut almost all the wood away from the outside and only take off a small amount of wood with the router.
Just be careful of the cutters biting into the wood grain when going against the grain of the wood, what i do is to go in a anti clockwise direction when running with the grain and clockwise direction when going against the grain but be careful as this is when the router bit is chewing into the wood and it will bite i can assure you.
hope this helps
jeremy-Budgen
Also you should be able to build your own jigs for guitar making, i used to use 12 to 16mm supawood for my jigs, but you can use perspex as well.
If you want some made on a cnc machine then let me know and we can make arrangements..
Gearhead
I am very happy with my Metabo router but I wasn't with my old man's. The big difference is in the power (more IS better) and the rev control (must have). Don't worry about getting more than one, the big difference is in the router bits. A large chuck and some converter collets and you can do any bit except for the tiny stuff. For installing saddles in acoustics, for routing binding and for inlay you might want a Dremel.
As the others said, routers are digit-eaters and most guitarists play with ten fingers. Be afraid enough, like the rest of us. Just one bite into the wood, the thing changes direction instantly and snaps at you.
If you want to start easy and work your way up, start with pine, alder, then go to mahogany and maple and only try ash when you think you are ready. The longer grain and harder wood have a much higher tendency to bite.
Neon-Gecko
Safety should always be right at the top of the list, as they are probably one of the most dangerous machines in the workshop and WILL maul you in a blink of an eye! But they also have to be one of the most versatile of all the power tools!
I have 3, and yes I suppose that sometimes I wish I had another. I have a plunge router (Black & Decker XT), a table mounted router (Bosch) and the smallest and most expensive of the lot, a panel trimmer (Ryobi).
One of the best features has to be constant speed under load, so try and find one that does that. Another is an accurate depth setting, sounds simple really, but only one of my routers really works well in that area.
Once you get your router, it's all about templates, foot mods and such that unlock a router's true potential. A really handy and informative purchase would be the book called Router Magic by Bill Hylton for heaps of jigs, easily made fixtures and some really neat tricks.
Jacquesg4j
Like stated above:
1) Higher wattage is better. Go industrial quality and don't fool around with the DIY stuff.
2) RPM control is very important.
3) Brand-wise, really imo all the same. At our factory we use maybe 10 routers and all are different brands.
4) Learn how to use it, take time and learn on simple stuff. If you can use a router you can use it to do anything.
5) The thing most important, is the bits. Don't fool around with the yellow cheap ones. They don't last as long and can maybe survive one sharpening. You get more expensive ones (about R400ish for a 12mm smooth cutter). Those are the ones to go for. Very nice bearing cutters are also available to make your hassle a little less hassleish!
6) With the router, also budget for good quality clamps and also one of those little work benches that can clamp things together. You want a solid work piece that won't come flying at you when the router bites into whatever.
Aall this is said up there but this is my summary!
flatfourfan
matabo, makita or AEG...........if you have the money.
I have an B&D and have been dead happy with it for the last 2-3 years. Don't skimp on router bits.............
Freddy-Bl00D
Wow heres alot of info thanks a million guys...
Safety will be my maim concern and i'll definetly get somebody to show me how to use it safely before I go flying in, luckily my eldest brother is a aviation junkie and has a solid work bench with clamps, safety goggles, dremil etc. that i can use. I'll try and get my hands on the Router Magic book for abit of insight and start on alder like gearhead mentioned.
@Jeremy, once i eventually get started and need jigs i'll definetly contact you.
I plan on sticking to names i'm familliar with like bosch or B&D which seems popular.. Anybody have any experience with Dewaal routers?
Gearhead
DeWalt quite good, supposed to be on par with Makita Metabo.
Neon-Gecko
DeWalt is the industrial brand of B&D. The B&D XT version was semi-industrial but was discontinued because guys would rather buy that than a DeWalt because it was more or less the same machine, but far cheaper.
Both DeWalt and Metabo make sturdy, reliable machines so it would all boil down to specs I suppose.
needleshy
I have quite a few power tools, although none are routers, my main concern when i buy a power tool is the backup service, i have employees working on construction site with my tool so they do go through quite a bit of torture, most of my power tools are established brands like Makita and Bosch, i have had the bosch SDS drill for 5 yrs and its still performing very well, never been in for repairs yet, the makita grinders i have are also doing well, 2 yrs on concstruction grinding, no repairs yet. i had a Maktech which was the guts of Makita just with i lighter duty casing which was also very good. My problematic tools were the Cheaper brands like Ryobi, although they say they have 2 yr guarantee it doesn't seem to cover any of the guts of the machine, the Ryobi SDS machine has been in for repairs 4 times in 1,5 years and each time i'm payin 150 bone for new brushes, bearings, etc, not to mention the 2-3 weeks it takes them to fix up every time, thats also time you loose as you don't have a machine ...... i think your best bet is to pay the little bit extra and get something like Makita or Bosch, i have worked with Hitachi and they are also pretty good hard wearing machines.
i have only heard good things about DeWalt but how is the availability of spares and how is their backup service?